What is the small hole centerly located behind the two barrel carb gasket on Ford Flathead V-8?Original gasket had this, new one doesn't have one and no provision on the base of carb for one.
I bought an electric fuel pump from Macs thinking I could use it in line with my mechanical for my 1934 flathead 6 volt system. Now it seems that this pump won't allow the mechanical pump to draw threw as certain posts suggest.also what's the best way to disable the mechanical pump if I decide...
I've got a 1934 ford flathead. Starts when it feels like. Run through ballast resistor. Take off ballast resistor and it starts right up. Reads 5.
3 volts a coil . Should I dump the resistor? That 302 looks better every day!!!
I'm looking to replace my tired Holey 94 (91-99) and am looking at Speedways super 97. I know that the gas and fuel lines are on opposite sides, but will it work on my 1934 V-8 manifold? Your thoughts would be appreciated.
I have a 1934 ford with mechanical brakes. Are the wheel studs pressed into the brake drums. The reason I ask this is because the term (swedged) was used in another post
What the heck is swedged?
Answered my own question. The spine sticks out of the tail shaft a certain amount and you need one inch of clearance for forward travel so therefore the exposed Barrel isn't really that long.
I purchased a Spicer 2-3-1431X for my 42-52 Ford open drive transmission. I slid the yoke in till it bottomed and pulled it back the recommended 3/4 to 1 inche's the only problem is that the barrel sticks out about two and a half inches.(the exposed part) this may lead to vibrations. I believe...
Thanks for the input. I guess I m not used to a fixed timing system. Martin, the term "first generation flathead" is used throughout the book by Joe Abbin, Ford & Mercury Flathead V-8. 1932-1937 21 stud flathead. No GM here!
Are there any good books or manuals that explain how to time first gen flathead? Something that explains vacuum brakes etc. and parts breakdown.l see lots of crab style info but nothing on 1934 distributor. I can't seem to wrap the idea of not turning a later style distributor to change timing...
I don't want to separate the springs ,I want to know how do I drop the rear axle. Do I jack up the rear end so the springs sag and use a bottle jack under one side to relieve the spring tension? How much tension will be left?
I like to know what is the safest way to drop your rear transverse Springs. I'd like to drop the rear axle and would like to know what kind of tension is still on the spring if I try to remove the shackle bolts
Flathead with 3-speed, closed driveshaft. I can shift through all gears with no noise but when I let off the gas (in gear) and let the engine pull the rpm's down , it sounds like a slapping noise. I thought it was the mechanical brake rods hitting, but it wasn't'. Any thoughts?😏