Recent content by VS81Splicer

I'm looking for a fuel gauge face-lever arm and rod assembly for my November 28 build Tudor sedan. In the dual gauge photo, the Gauge ON THE LEFT is the one I need. The numerals are slightly different and the gauge face is best distinguished by the thicker 0, or empty reading. The other photo...

I've carefully bent bent back the four cover retaining clips on one of my my tail light drum switches and I'm in the process of making a fixture to push and hold the 7/32" diameter actuating shaft about 1/2" off the switch base rear frame wall. On opposite end of the shaft, I have a claw that...

According to an article in Technically Speaking, Vol #9, p. 61, there's an A-35261 clip that acts as both a front cowl panel support and wiper/cowl light wire support mounted on the first A-35266, cowl to side panel clamp. The article says the A-35261 never made it into the PPL, but I stumbled...

Gentlemen, thank you for the advise. Despite the fact that I used a 3/8-24 tap, a 3/8-24 bolt and a slide hammer on my hood's center pivot hinge tube, I didn't think of using the same principle with this upper bushing. The bore of that bronze upper bushing is .812/3, which is the drill size...

Has anyone removed the upper shouldered bronze bushing (the one immediately above the upper thrust bearing) in a 28/29 steering column? I'm trying to do this with the pot metal bushing at the extreme top of the column remaining in place. I'm thinking that opening the bore just shy of the key...

WHAT CONFIGURATION OF FASTENING HARDWARE WAS USED TO SECURE MY ENGINE SPLASH PANS TO THE FRAME? In the process of re-restoring my December 1928 Tudor, (with a frame that has the 1/4” holes in the front cross member for the first generation engine splash pans) I’m finding that the hardware...

I think I can save myself some time in making the circular retaining ring and get the required slot dimension. I just have to find someone who will sell me 10. Thanks again for the help. Regards, Bob

I've started the same way you did, buying 1" lonr 3/8 diameter clevis pins at the hardware store. I've got access to a lathe, so I can turn the pins shouldered end to fashion a dome. Cutting the radius groove and tapered groove end will require a collet that accommodates the larger domed...

So, the clip is a round wire ring, not an E-clip, snap ring or crescent ring? What was the groove width and depth that you turned on the pins? Thanks for the help, I think I can handle it with the above info. Regards,

Is someone familiar with this part?

Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I could see that the tube was attached to the flange in a manner that would most likely, permanantely damage both if separated. My thoughts were that the rod would have to remain attached to the flange and the plater would have to polish the the aluminum flange...

I have the spring loaded button bezel and spring off (lower right photo), I'm wondering about removing the aluminum flange switch attached to the rod.? Does the 45-3/4" rolled rod that isolates the contact wire have to be removed from the aluminum flange switch to do a good nickel plating job...

Can anybody offer some advice? (see picture)

I'm looking for a late 1928 Gas tank, with the date stamped to verify age.