Light-Horn Rod Assembly Restoration

V

VS81Splicer

Junior Member
Can anybody offer some advice? (see picture)
 

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  • LIGHT HORN SWITCH PLATING.jpg
    LIGHT HORN SWITCH PLATING.jpg
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I have the spring loaded button bezel and spring off (lower right photo), I'm wondering about removing the aluminum flange switch attached to the rod.? Does the 45-3/4" rolled rod that isolates the contact wire have to be removed from the aluminum flange switch to do a good nickel plating job on the flange?
 
There is a kit available to replace the ground wire set up internal to the tube. I would remove it due to the nature of processes in plating. All soft stuff should be removed so it can be thoroughly cleaned. Wax is generally used to cover portions not to be plated if necessary. Something like the long tube can be suspended out of the tank to just plate the switch lever independently.
 
DO NOT REMOVE THE FLANGE TO HAVE IT PLATED! You will probably not be able to re-fasten it to the tube as was done in original assembly. It will never get tight enough and the flange will "rock" on the tube, causing problems as you turn the steering wheel. As noted in another post, the flange can be dipped in the plating tank with the tube suspended out of the tank.
 
Thanks for the advice gentlemen. I could see that the tube was attached to the flange in a manner that would most likely, permanantely damage both if separated. My thoughts were that the rod would have to remain attached to the flange and the plater would have to polish the the aluminum flange with the rod/flange assembly, but it was nice to hear it from someone who had gone through the process. When I checked with Snyder, the light/horn repair kit (which includes to wire) was still out of stock.
 
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