I just made some of the pins and clips for a friend. I found a spring that is about .100 inch in diameter and annealed the spring with a torch. I then cut off a section of the spring long enough to go around the groove in the pin. It was easy to bend the piece around a drift pin about the same diameter of the groove in the pin. Notice the pin has a slight taper on the end to help slide the clip in place and you may need to compress the clip with pliers when in place.
Not one of Fords better ideas.
Dave
I made two pins by using 3/8 inch diameter clevis pins, my hand drill mounted in my bench vise. I bought the clevis pin stock from my local hardware store that were 1 and 1/2 inches long and had a single hole at the end. The pin head is round and about 1/8 inch wide. The pin head needs to be rounded to look more like a rivet head. I had to anneal the hardware store clevis pin at the head and shank to soften them. I used files to round off the head as per your picture in your post. I used a round rat tail file 1/8 inch in diameter for the notch and file it to a diameter of about .300 inch. You can find a 1/8 inch chain saw blade file. I then used a small triangle shaped file to make the taper. Then I used a cut off wheel in my Dremel to cut it to length.
Yes the clip is just a round piece of wire.
I made the pins a little longer than the originals as the seat bracket needs to turn when moving the seat to allow for the rear passengers entry. I think these pins/clips are used on all four years of the Model A and probably on the Model B57445 as per your drawing above.
There are four of these pins per seat, two at the bottom and two further up on the seat bracket.
A small lathe could be used but I did not have one. The pins the vendors sell are not correct.
You might be able to buy the part drawing from the Ford archives using the B7745 part number
Dave
I've started the same way you did, buying 1" lonr 3/8 diameter clevis pins at the hardware store. I've got access to a lathe, so I can turn the pins shouldered end to fashion a dome. Cutting the radius groove and tapered groove end will require a collet that accommodates the larger domed diameter of the pin head. What was the diameter of the spring wire you used? I can turn the radius clip groove based on the diameter of that wire. Thanks again for all of your help. Regards, Bob.
I think I can save myself some time in making the circular retaining ring and get the required slot dimension. I just have to find someone who will sell me 10. Thanks again for the help.
Hello Bob,
I bought the longer clevis pins so I could chuck them up in my hand drill on the shaft beyond where I filed the heads, clip groove and tapers. The diameter of the spring wire was .100 inch that I got from an original clip. It fits very nicely in the 1/8 inch diameter groove. I have given the parts back to the guy I made them for but can get them back if you need any more information such as the gap between the clip ends.
Good luck with your project.
Dave
I am sure some of the vendors would be willing to retail them for you if you could mass produce them.