Recent content by Seattledavid

I recently put my 1937 ford back together after removing the rear end to change gears in the rear end and to replace the clutch. Everything was going just fine until today. When I got into the car today to back it up and put it into reverse I let the clutch all the way out and the car did not...

I have a 1937 Ford v8 with a r-10 borg Warner overdrive. I have noticed a cap that is over the govenor. See photo. There is also a plug on the side. Are both of these to put oil in? Is there no way to drain oil out? Dave Goodwin

Back to the original question here. Every picture I see of shock links for a 1937 ford car do not show any bushings. Are they supposed to have bushings?? Dave

I have a 1937 ford Sedan with an 85 hp engine but it has a Stromberg 81 carb on it and I think they were normally on the 60 hp engine. I’m pretty sure the engine is 85 hp because it has 21 head bolts on each side and I heard the 60 hp engine only has 17 head bolts on each side. Will an 85 hp...

Have a 1937 ford that won’t start so I removed the distributor and I think I found the problem. The wire that goes to the coil on the other end of the wire there is a carbon piece that makes contact with the rotor. I put a meter on continuity and put one lead on the end that attaches to the...

I have the + side wired to ground and the negative side of the coil wired to the black wire from the e- fire so that should be correct. Shouldn’t I have 6 volts on the negative side or am I confused.

I installed a Stromberg E-fire on my 1947 Ford Super Deluxe that is 6 volt positive ground. I used the correct one and the plug wires from Stromberg also and the 1.5 ohm coil they suggested. I finally got the car to start after I charged the battery. It is running rough at higher speed. The...

I have a VSM 900 installed on my Model T which is 12 volts and I keep blowing fuses and flasher units. I’ve checked the wiring and nothing is grounding out. I have T on the flasher going to hot. L on the flasher going to the yellow wire and P on the flasher going to the blue wire. Gray and...

I had a feeling it had to do with the points and condenser. I will replace them. Dave

I have a 1947 Ford Super Deluxe V8 that starts and runs smooth at idle but when accelerated it runs more rough and hesitates. Does that sound like an electrical issue or fuel ?? The car is 6v positive ground with points and condenser. Dave

Ok everyone thanks for your input. Car originally had two 6 volt Optima batteries hooked in parallel I changed them out for a regular 6 volt battery to see if that made a difference which it didn’t. Still getting hot so that I can’t leave my fingers on it for longer than 5 seconds. Is that too...

What did you do to polarize it correctly?? Dave

Regulator looked good to me. Nothing fused or arced. Voltage not running is 6. I will have to find the voltage running at idle in the morning. When you said to remove the ground cable are you referring to the battery cable?? I do have an ohm meter and my battery is sealed. Dave

Ok I will check on this. Also isn’t polarizing only needed if the generator is not charging?? Mine does charge. It just gets hot and I have no idea why. Dave

Sorry I am confused. #7 talks about the regulator being polarized. How do you do the generator?? Dave