What model Battery Tender?

[sconnors]

Red should go to Positive and Black to Negative. If you have original Positive Ground, this should be correct. If you have negative Ground, this connection is reversed.

I have a positive ground with an alternator. Red to the head bolt, black to the starter wire and it shows reverse but when I go directly to battery red to negative and black to positive it shows fine. Not a big deal, but was thinking it would be easier to connect it the way Paul shows in the video and then I don't have to pull up the carpet and run wires under the door, etc.

 

[Big hammer]

Well that says alot about some of your past posts , cold not start , no start , ect ! Somehow somewhere the battery changed polarity ! Ignition coils work better providing better spark when they have proper polarity !

 

[Y-Blockhead]

"red to negative and black to positive" (essentially the same connections) and it charges fine. Not sure why.

??? You stated "red to negative and black to positive" which I was referring to and is incorrect.

 

[Hitman]

Just connect it at the battery. The battery doesn't care if the car is negative or positive ground. The red + and black - on the battery are always the same no matter what the car is.

 

[Joe K]

Now three of these. Various providers/marketing name.

Sell from various sources for up to $27.99. I bought my three at $9.98 each free shipping.

They all came in the same box with different labels on the fold cover. Same instructions inside in three languages.

It works pretty well, but you have to read the directions carefully to make it go to the 6v selection (Hold button for 3 seconds plus - and even then it doesn't always flip over to 6v.)

The clamps are "solid" and a step above most chargers of this price point.

Still, the "green light" is reassuring as I pass into the garage in the dark.

Joe K

 

[Benson]

Joe K.

what brand is that one?

 

[Joe K]

Joe K.

what brand is that one?

Of three purchased, I tossed the box for one.

The next box shows "Master 1.5 Battery Charger & Maintainer."

The next box shows "VIBEXTR Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer."

All three boxes showed identical contents, instructions, and I paid $9.98 on either Amazon or Ebay. Both offered free shipping. As I wrote - price (and apparently availability) varies.

You have to look around - I bought the Amazon first. A week later Amazon was showing "not available." And yet another Amazon seller was showing it at $27.98. I found the $9.98 price on Ebay - twice. Different sellers for each.

Kind of "fly by night" in origin - but they do work. And they do automatically detect the battery voltage if you give them time. A power interruption caused them to shut down - but pressing the button brought it back quickly to 6v.

Follow the instructions.

Currently showing available at Amazon.com $9.99. Free shipping. Top of the search for "1.5 Battery Charger & Maintainer"

Joe K

 

[midgetracer]

??? You stated "red to negative and black to positive" which I was referring to and is incorrect.[/QUOT I disagree with you Y-Block. I hook them up all my cars at the starter with black to the starter cable and red to the headbolt. The cable on the starter goes directly to the neg pole on the battery and the positive pole on the battery goes to the chassis which is connected to the headbolt. It works for me on all 10 of my Model As.

 

[Benson]

Of three purchased, I tossed the box for one.

The next box shows "Master 1.5 Battery Charger & Maintainer."

The next box shows "VIBEXTR Smart Battery Charger & Maintainer."

All three boxes showed identical contents, instructions, and I paid $9.98 on either Amazon or Ebay. Both offered free shipping. As I wrote - price (and apparently availability) varies.

You have to look around - I bought the Amazon first. A week later Amazon was showing "not available." And yet another Amazon seller was showing it at $27.98. I found the $9.98 price on Ebay - twice. Different sellers for each.

Kind of "fly by night" in origin - but they do work. And they do automatically detect the battery voltage if you give them time. A power interruption caused them to shut down - but pressing the button brought it back quickly to 6v.

Follow the instructions.

Joe K

Thanks Joe

On second one on your list I like the sulfation mode to revive batteries and the auto start return to last setup mode after power failure.

 

[sconnors]

Well that says alot about some of your past posts , cold not start , no start , ect ! Somehow somewhere the battery changed polarity ! Ignition coils work better providing better spark when they have proper polarity !

Perhaps I misstated and apologize for doing so. As you can see from the attached pics I have a true positive ground system and I was able to get the charger working correctly connecting to the head bolt and starter apparently I just didn’t have a good connection on the head bolt.

 

[Y-Blockhead]

??? You stated "red to negative and black to positive" which I was referring to and is incorrect.[/QUOT]

I disagree with you Y-Block. I hook them up all my cars at the starter with black to the starter cable and red to the headbolt. The cable on the starter goes directly to the neg pole on the battery and the positive pole on the battery goes to the chassis which is connected to the headbolt. It works for me on all 10 of my Model As.

That is not what I said. In the normal world, Black is considered Negative and Red is considered Positive. Using a Red wire for the Negative cable just confuses things.

 

[CT Jack]

I live in New England and store my 4 vehicles for a minimum of 3 months in unheated buildings. I have had good success with just disconnecting the batteries using a disconnect switch or removing the ground cable. Before the 1st start in the spring I put a charger on which usually brings the battery back to full charge in a sort period of time. All my batteries are Interstate.

 

[CT Jack]

I live in New England and store my 4 vehicles for a minimum of 3 months in unheated buildings. I have had good success with just disconnecting the batteries using a disconnect switch or removing the ground cable. Before the 1st start in the spring I put a charger on which usually brings the battery back to full charge in a sort period of time. All my batteries are Interstate.

 

[jeepguy1948]

NK, as far as I know, at this time, LiPo batteries are not usable for starter batteries they can’t handle the big load.

 

[31deluxe]

With the battery being under the floorboard on my A and 31Plymouth, I connected the battery tender clamps to the starter post and ground as suggested somewhere.
Does anyone else do this? Any problems with doing this?

 

[sconnors]

With the battery being under the floorboard on my A and 31Plymouth, I connected the battery tender clamps to the starter post and ground as suggested somewhere.
Does anyone else do this? Any problems with doing this?

Yes see my pic

 

[1928Mik]

I have the Black & Decker ones. They are on a timer tho. I have heard too many horror stories including one local one where a tender left on 24/7 was the cause of a garage fire.

 

[katy]

The first picture in post #50 shows the red battery cable connected to the negative post of the battery. See the little negative mark on the battery? Where does the other end of this cable connect to? If it goes to "ground" on the frame, transmission or engine, then your car is negative ground. Also, the same picture shows what looks like the negative clamp from your battery "tender" connected to that same terminal.

 

[alexiskai]

NK, as far as I know, at this time, LiPo batteries are not usable for starter batteries they can’t handle the big load.

There aren't currently any LiFePO4 6V starter batteries on the market, but they do make them for 12V. I believe that's the one Neil talks about in this thread.

You can buy individual LiPo cells that put out 100A, so all you have to do is string a few of those together and you have plenty of juice to start a Model A.