What model Battery Tender?

I just bought a couple LiPo deep cycle batteries for my travel trailer. Also a charge controller for the solar panels that has a setting for LiPo batteries. It seems the price is coming down on these type of batteries. They can last 10 years, are lighter weight, and have twice the capacity. I am going to look for a LiPo starting battery for the Model A. The current lead-acid battery is near the end of its life.
 
I have 1 battery tender brand, a Schumacher, and a couple of Interstate ones. They all seem to do well as all of my batteries are 4+ years old. I usually get 8-9 years out of a lead acid battery with them.
 
I have a 6 V Deltran Battery Tender and I bought a 6 V/12 V Battery Tender thAt I can use on my Model A and on my new cars. I’m not sure what amps they are. Can anyone suggest the best amps to buy?

David Serrano
 
This is the one I use, see photo. It stays plugged in and connected to the battery when the car is not being driven for more than a few days. Does not overcharge and has the desulfator.


579001
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3480.jpg
    IMG_3480.jpg
    53.4 KB · Views: 218
Last edited:
Why desulfator? When the lead-acid battery discharges the sulfuric acid combines with the lead plates to form lead sulfate. The acid becomes weaker. When the battery is charged the lead sulfate turns back into lead and the sulfur recombines with the acid. The acid becomes stronger.

If the battery sits in a partially discharged state the lead sulfate will crystalize. This crystal state of the lead sulfate will not allow the sulfur to recombine with the acid and effectively takes a portion of the lead plates out of action, reducing the capacity of the battery. If enough of the lead sulfate is in the crystal state the battery is no longer able to start the car.

The desulfator part of the battery maintainer sends a high frequency wave into the battery. This breaks down the crystals and turns them back into amorphous form that the battery can use. I really don't know how the high frequency waves change the crystals back to amorphous form, but it does.

A lead acid battery will self discharge a little at a time. So as the battery sits the lead sulfate crystals are being formed. The desulfator maintainer can recover the battery or keep this from happening by keeping the battery charged. It is very important not to overcharge the battery, so the maintainer senses the battery voltage and reduces the charging current when it is fully charged.
 
With regard to the Deltron Battery Tenders, the following is stated on their webpage:

"Battery Tender battery chargers do not include desulfation mode. Instead of stressing your battery to “fix” a problem after it develops, our smart chargers are designed to prevent sulfation from happening in the first place."

I've had good results from the only Battery Tender maintainer that I've used, the 0.75 amp
 
I have a couple of different model Deltran Battery Tenders® but the one I use most is the Battery Tender Jr.® whenever parked plus Battery Oil. I have over 12 years on my Lead/Acid battery in my Town Sedan now, still going strong. I have had the same Battery Tender for the same time.

Edit: Sorry, second time around. Looking back, I noticed I already answered on this thread...
 
Last edited:
I have Battery Tender junior units that I have used for 20years. I have had Schumacher units that have typically lasted 5 years, but my current favorite is the NOCO is my current favorite.
 
My collection: for my 1970 Triumph Motorcycle, 53' Mercury, 70 Cougar and 2006 Mini Cooper. I also have one on my 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I prefer the dual voltage when I can find them for a reasonable price.

All of mine are on24/7 and have been for 20 years.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0009.jpg
    DSCN0009.jpg
    63.7 KB · Views: 22
  • DSCN0010.jpg
    DSCN0010.jpg
    47.3 KB · Views: 23
  • DSCN0011.jpg
    DSCN0011.jpg
    30.9 KB · Views: 20
Last edited:
Regardless of what tenders everyone uses, do have them on timers or are they on 24/7? I have heard horror stories and also local resident had one catch fire and burn up two Challengers plus his garage. (Fire Chief who lives across the road confirmed that one btw.)
 
Last edited:
Both my previous tenders are 12v only (same with my charger). I just started cheap by buying a NOCO GENIUS1 off of Amazon. Works as advertised. As it is 1amp only, it took a couple of days to get the battery up to full charge from 75%. However, is now at 100% and the NOCO is minding the store nicely.

Time will tell. It's only been a week...
 
1928Mik said:
Regardless of what tenders everyone uses, do have them on timers or are they on 24/7? I have heard horror stories and also local resident had one catch fire and burn up two Challengers plus his garage. (Fire Chief who lives across the road confirmed that one btw.)
Click to expand...

I leave on 24/7. I trust the manufacturer to incorporate over temperature shutdown. I would think that would be a requirement, but who knows?
 
I ended up purchasing a Tornado 4000 last year and it worked great! One thing I noticed, I saw Paul Shinn do a video where he connects the red clamp to the head bolt and the black clamp to the starter wire. When I tried it, I got a red light saying the polarity was reversed. However, when I swapped them it made no difference. Once I connected them directly to the battery - red to negative and black to positive (essentially the same connections) and it charges fine. Not sure why.
 
What ever you want to use, a good practice is to isolate the power unit. Don't leave it on a seat cushion or on top of the engine. A small steel pail like a paint can with some sand in it is a good place to put the unit while in use and out in the open away from fuel sources.These are inexpensive items usually built off shore and are transformer like construction with some circuit board magic happening. Be on the safe side
 
sconnors said:
I ended up purchasing a Tornado 4000 last year and it worked great! One thing I noticed, I saw Paul Shinn do a video where he connects the red clamp to the head bolt and the black clamp to the starter wire. When I tried it, I got a red light saying the polarity was reversed. However, when I swapped them it made no difference. Once I connected them directly to the battery - red to negative and black to positive (essentially the same connections) and it charges fine. Not sure why.
Click to expand...

Red should go to Positive and Black to Negative. If you have original Positive Ground, this should be correct. If you have negative Ground, this connection is reversed.
 
I use the cars generator to maintain my 6-volt wet cell battery. The starter is the desulfator. If I don't drive it, I just start it up and run it a bit to get the juices flowing. In the military I learned the process of the 14-day MOC or maintenance operational check. I'm fortunate to be in a warmer climate. Fall and winter are good times to drive down here in south TX.
 
Battery Saver.com; subjective opinion, but these maintainers never sulfate or destroy batteries and last longer than any used over many years. Can be left on continuously and with automatic shut off even with AGM , etc. batteries.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top