I removed the fuse and the OD now engages and disengages properly and I can pull the OD lever out when I come to a stop sign. The ****** is now going to conventional, not free-wheeling when I slow down. It also goes into OD when I let-up and I can take off from a stop and not worry about the car feeling like I'm taking off in 2nd. Fine. However... I now have no "kick_down". The kickdown switch is new and was working until I cleaned the terminals on the relay. Also, I still have the obvious negative jump on the ammeter when I turn the key on. Removing the fuse took care of that problem though. Just to be clear, There are three terminals and a fuse on the relay. Two of the terminals are on the passenger side of the engine, I have the ignition wire, "hot" with key on, on the front terminal (radiator side) and the the thsw terminal (kickdown) on the firewall side. The driver's side has one terminal for the Solenoid. These connections are good but the ign terminal post is a little loose. Can I assume that the governor is now working properly since the OD engages and disengages as it should? And what is going on with the ammeter dive when I turn the key on? How about the kickdown which was working yesterday? As always, thanks to everyone for your help and suggestions. I really do appreciate you guys taking the time to give me your two cents worth.
Dan
When you remove the fuse, the system can't work, so I'm confused when you say it engages and disengages now. Perhaps language is the problem.
I think when you say "engage" you're talking purely about the pull handle. "Engage" to me means actually upshifting into OD.
If I were you, I'd stop messing with the handle and go for a straight diagnosis of the OD system. The handle doesn't "engage" the OD, the handle either allows the OD to operate (IN), or it disables the OD (OUT). When the OD is disabled (handle OUT), the ****** operates like a normal direct drive 3 speed including compression braking (as opposed to free-wheeling). With the handle IN, the OD is free to operate. In operation, the ****** will free wheel (coasting) until the OD "engages" (upshifts). When the OD engages (normally at 26 MPH and higher) the ****** will not free wheel anymore until you slow down less than 23 mph.
The three contact on the relay are for 1. power input (usually from the coil power supply), 2. to the solenoid, and 3. from the governor (which is routed through half of the kickdown switch.
When the car hits 26 mph, the governor completes the connection and "tells" the relay to send power to the solenoid which then upshifts (engages the OD). The opposite happens when you slow down to less than 23 mph.
When you hit the kickdown switch, two things happen because the kickdown switch is a two pole switch: 1. the governor connection is interrupted and 2. the ignition is momentarily killed. The reason the ignition is killed to to provide "slack" in the driveline which is necessary for downshifting the OD.
Now, from what you described, I think the governor switch is sticking in the "On" position because it is not telling the relay (which then tells the solenoid) to shut off. This is confirmed by your ammeter draw. Another possibility is that a frayed wire to the governor switch may be hitting the chassis of the car bacause the governor operates by taking the system to ground and a frayed wire could do the same thing.
If your system is powered by the ignition key, then you'll hear a click when you turn the key off that confirms the solenoid was released. You probably can hear the same click when you pull the fuse.
I hope this is helpful. You really should get a Green Bible or other good book on the subject.