Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
I lube every part that moves.........even my elbows.
Certainly you've heard of elbow grease.
Certainly you've heard of elbow grease.
Lock me up
- Thread starter Gino
- Start date
Mike V. Florida
Well-known member
I lube every part that moves.........even my elbows.
Certainly you've heard of elbow grease.
Your killing me!
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
You must watch "THIS OLD HOUSE" they got 3 barrels of it, but it's not RED! You are up late, NO I didn't go to bed, we were hungry & baked a bread pudding, AH! the life of a batchelorI lube every part that moves.........even my elbows.
Certainly you've heard of elbow grease.
Take care, Tom. Bill W. & The Vicious Dog
tbirdtbird
BANNED
i do, Bill; but I use never-seize. when i was a kid there was no such thing so i used a dab of heavy-bodied white grease from Valvoline called X-All. Still have a can; I continue to use that on starter and gen. sleeve bearings, works great, lasts a long time
dave
dave
Now I don't have to wonder anymore!
Thanks guys, especially you Wild Bill Williamson, for the info.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Sorry Bill, I turned of the computor early last night, I was listening to the Do-Wop stop with Bobby B on SiriusXM 50s on 5. I love that old music!!! I do grease the metal to metal brake parts I also add grease to the cavity above the adjusting wedge before installing the adjusting wedge cap.
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zzlegend
Well-known member
Ah yes, Good choice on the music there Purdy. I listen to the 50's 0n 5 everyday. Have it on right now working on my roadster. Bobby b. is the best. Mark.
Al 29Tudor
Well-known member
Yes Bill, I do. Even caliper siding surfaces.
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
I'm sure some know that some porous lookin' bronze bushings are called Oillite & if you hold your finger on one end, fill it with oil, then press your thumb on the other end, it will force oil into the pores for longer lasting lubrication. I "think" Chrysler Corp. developed that technology. Bill W.
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Hi Paul, you see I had this very qualified old guy reshoe the brakes and set them up. Then I took all the drums and backing plates back to my garage and I ( remember I'm very new to this but I'm very mechanically inclined) installed all the parts on my Coupe.I don't know if they are chamfered.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
If the ends of the brake lining isn't chamfered you will more than likely have problems getting the drums over them. When the lining is riveted to the shoes it has a tendency to kick out from the shoe at the ends. I grind a taper from the ends of the lining to just before the holes that the heads of the rivets rest , on the leading and trailing ends of all the lined shoes. This will solve some problems when you get ready to install the hubs and drums. When you install the shoes to the backing plates make sure that the heads of the roller pins that pass through the rollers face the inside and are riding on the top of the tracks. In other words the cotter pins should face the outside. I've seen some beginer model A guys mount them backwards. This condition causes the shoes to be out of center enough that the drums probably wouldn't clear the lining enough to mount. Just a few things to look out for .
Gino,
Lots of good advice from the crew, Purdy, Paul, Tom and all. You have to remember that Model A Brakes being totally mechanical that every pivot point, pin, shoe to drum location.. etc is critical in having good ( great) brakes. It can be done. Along with the suggestions above... I would...
Make sure that the front backing plates are tight on the spindles. If loose they can rotate slightly causing issues of the actuating pin/wedge, etc As well as the spindle bolt, spoecifically your problem as described with sticking brakes. As Tom had said, make sure your axle/wishbone, spring perches, and king pins are all tight. If you see any light rust dust at a joint it is probably moving... Tighten or fix/replace as necessary.
As Purdy suggest shoe chamfering and arcing to the drum size/surface is key. even after they need breaking in... I usually find it takes a number of miles and about 3 rounds of adjustments at the wedge (sometimes a tweak on the rod) for them to get dialed in. The wire type return/anti-rattle springs (31 style) are the best. Regardless of year I would use those for a "service or tour" car. As some said, make sure your brake springs are of good heavy quality. The brattons or snyders springs should be fine. Anyone else's I wouldn't gaurantee to be of good quality.
Watch the "Stopping on a Dime" video and you will learn the ABC's of the Model A Brakes and will make you more aware of their function and issues. It is the best video/information out there to learn in a nutshell.
I have done countless brake jobs and even though they are all fairly routine and the same... they are not. Attention to detail can't be overstated. As Tom and crew said as well, be sure to use a little lube at the pivot points/places on assembly.
FYI.. I'm not necessarily a fan of the floaters.. as in my opinion good braking can be obtained just the same through proper rebuilding of Henry's and Edsels stock system. Good luck and happy braking!
Larry Shepard
Lots of good advice from the crew, Purdy, Paul, Tom and all. You have to remember that Model A Brakes being totally mechanical that every pivot point, pin, shoe to drum location.. etc is critical in having good ( great) brakes. It can be done. Along with the suggestions above... I would...
Make sure that the front backing plates are tight on the spindles. If loose they can rotate slightly causing issues of the actuating pin/wedge, etc As well as the spindle bolt, spoecifically your problem as described with sticking brakes. As Tom had said, make sure your axle/wishbone, spring perches, and king pins are all tight. If you see any light rust dust at a joint it is probably moving... Tighten or fix/replace as necessary.
As Purdy suggest shoe chamfering and arcing to the drum size/surface is key. even after they need breaking in... I usually find it takes a number of miles and about 3 rounds of adjustments at the wedge (sometimes a tweak on the rod) for them to get dialed in. The wire type return/anti-rattle springs (31 style) are the best. Regardless of year I would use those for a "service or tour" car. As some said, make sure your brake springs are of good heavy quality. The brattons or snyders springs should be fine. Anyone else's I wouldn't gaurantee to be of good quality.
Watch the "Stopping on a Dime" video and you will learn the ABC's of the Model A Brakes and will make you more aware of their function and issues. It is the best video/information out there to learn in a nutshell.
I have done countless brake jobs and even though they are all fairly routine and the same... they are not. Attention to detail can't be overstated. As Tom and crew said as well, be sure to use a little lube at the pivot points/places on assembly.
FYI.. I'm not necessarily a fan of the floaters.. as in my opinion good braking can be obtained just the same through proper rebuilding of Henry's and Edsels stock system. Good luck and happy braking!
Larry Shepard
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
Yes it can be fixed. If you are in a hurry to drive it you might can get by like I did with one of mine. Gus our rusty 29 tudor leaked so bad that the oil got in the generator and caused it to have to be rebuilt. I didn't want to get under him and take off the oil pan. While the generator was off I decided to remove the timing cover and replace the rope seal. I had to loosen and remove some motor mount bolts to be able to remove the timing cover. This also tequired slightly jacking up the engine so as to hold it in place after the front mount yoke bolts are removed. I only replaced the half of the seal that fits in the timing cover and didn't remove the oil pan The rope seal is a very tight Fit. Some trim the ends that protrude. I don't believe in triming the ends and this makes the fit tighter. It worked and stopped the leak. I figured if it didn't work I wouldn't be any worse off but would just have to replace the pan seal as well. I try to make things as easy as possible and lucked out.
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
They are good, especially the how to stop on a dime and the carburetors and carbohydrates. I got mine back when times were better and prices were less I probably wouldn't have as many as I have if my wife and daughter didn't give me model A books, model A videos and model A parts for Christmas, birthdays and fathers day. They have their own Snyders and Brattons catalogs.
Growley bear
Well-known member
Yes,
I learned to lightly lube metal to metal points on brake jobs years ago. Saves on come backs.
Ken B
Senior Member
I had this problem with the floaters (not Ted's). The pin that they come with isn't hardened and over time gets mushroomed out a bit on the ends. This caused the wedge to stick to one side and pop loose occasionally. I have since gone back to the standard Henry design and haven't had problems.
Fred K-OR
Well-known member
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Re: Lock me up-Floaters that cause problems-Photo
Tom Wesenberg asked above if floaters are installed ...
Back in the 60's Ricks, JCWhitney and Warshawski sold these floaters.
The problem I had with them is that the brakes made a very loud bang sometimes as I pressed on the brake pedal.
Removing these and installing original parts fixed the problem.
Tom Wesenberg asked above if floaters are installed ...
Back in the 60's Ricks, JCWhitney and Warshawski sold these floaters.
The problem I had with them is that the brakes made a very loud bang sometimes as I pressed on the brake pedal.
Removing these and installing original parts fixed the problem.
Attachments
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