Lock me up

G

Gino

Senior Member
Mornin" I'm new at this but just replaced all the brake shoes, had an old guy set em up, ( no substitute for an old guy when it comes to Model A's ) turned the drums. It seems the front driver side brakes will stay locked up ad I come to a stop but will release, sometimes with a little bang, when I go forward. Any suggestions? Thanks
 
Sounds like problems with the brake springs, The brake rod return springs may all be backwards. it could be the service brake cross shaft is too tight and binding. there use to be split bushings made from aluminum for the service brake cross shaft. The aluminum bushings could stick to the shaft because of dis similar metal reaction and bind up the brakes. Disconnect the brake rods at the cross shaft and check for free movement. The service brake cross shsft needs to move freely and have some slack to allow for frame flex on uneven surfaces. Just being old doesn't necessarily Qualify a person to set up the brakes. Get the how to stop on a dime video and fix the brakes yourself. Watching LLoyd Kerr do the brakes is worth thousands of words that you may not understand anyway.
 
Also the front axle needs to be tight to the wishbone, the kingpins need to be good and the backing plates mounting bolts need to be tight. Any slop in these parts will allow the backing plate to rotate when the brakes are applied, and this will increase the braking pressure.

Do you have any modifications, such as floaters?
 
The how to stop on a dime video is on page 10 of the newest Snyders catalog. It is at the top of the list at the left upper corner of the page. They have it in VHS part number A-18800-A or DVD part number A-18800-AD both are $39.00 . They have went up a lot since I got mine but I feel that it is worth the money. I also have the Carburetors and carbohydrates, Dial D for distributor, Genning along with Lloyd and Floyd and I feel that they are all top notch. Everyone has their own way of doing things but the videos helped me.
 
purdy swoft said:
the how to stop on a dime video is on page 10 of the newest snyders catalog. It is at the top of the list at the left upper corner of the page. They have it in vhs part number a-18800-a or dvd part number a-18800-ad both are $39.00 . They have went up a lot since i got mine but i feel that it is worth the money. I also have the carburetors and carbohydrates, dial d for distributor, genning along with lloyd and floyd and i feel that they are all top notch. Everyone has their own way of doing things but the videos helped me.
Click to expand...

x two:) !
 
I will order that video tomorrow, I have backed off both adjustments all the way on front brakes and they release ok now. But they are squealing when I apply hard pressure. I wonder if I have caused this to happen by having them adjusted too tight. You guys should know I'm itching to drive her with the warmer weather here in Ma. Thanks a crap load.
 
Perhaps check your roller tracks, and the pin head that rides on that part. Worn track and/or poorly made roller pins can cause the shoe to slip off the track.
 
i recently did some brake work had the same problem...one of the springs came off the pin on the backing plate id pull the drum and ck it...
 
I babbled recently about lubing all metal to metal contact points with regular old Lubriplate using an acid brush. Helps prevent high frequency squeeling & smoother operation of all mechanical parts/gizmos. And like Purdy said, lube up all mechanical contraptions in the brake system UNDER the car!
Does anyone lube the stuff that I noted?? Even on hydraulic brakes, it was always common practice to do this! Even disc brakes need ALL metal to metal contact areas lubed to prevent SQUEEEEEEEELING & SQUEEEEEKING! All brakes create high frequency vibrations from FRICTION, a dry metal to metal contact area just give them a place to sound out their "HIGH C NOTES"! Like, if you put grease on your fiddle bow, it's real QUIET!! Bill W.
 
2X with Mr. Jim Parker Check to make sure the roller track is straight across. No dips. If there is you can weld it then grind it level. It will save you $20 plus shipping.

Also you might have the brake rod out of adjustment on that wheel
 
Hope the video is REALLY good! I just ordered it since i am having braking issues also. With the $12 shipping, it's really kinda pricy!!!!
 
You didn't say if your drums or original pressed steel or if they're cast iron. If they're the original pressed steel they were never meant to be turned. They're not thick enough.
 
How come nobody answers my question, "Do any of you lube all the metal to metal contact points in your stock brakes"?? I'm going to BED! Bill W.
 
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