Ignition switch relay
- Thread starter my4dv8
- Start date
I used the original switch in my column drop. I did open it up and clean it up. But, I use it now to turn on a relay that Powers up my "run" portion of my fuse panel. Off of that panel are all my individual circuits for my guages, coil, fuel pump etc
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Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I have never heard these switches were temperamental. If you are keeping the original wiring circuit and just going to 12 volts there shouldn't be a problem as a 12 volt system uses less current. What year is your car?
Charlie Stephens
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The OEM column ignition switch only powered the gauges and coil so it didn't have much current flow through it. If a person is going to add more accessories to that circuit then a relay might be a good thought.
Ken/Alabama
Well-known member
I have one on my 40 convertible. The flip switch on the column powers a relay that feeds a fuse panel for the ignition,fuel pump & all the accessories like radio and heater.
quickchange34
Well-known member
Yes , use a relay with the switch if you plan to rewire and add accessories .
FireEngineMike
Senior Member
Hyvolt, would you post a picture of your wiring panel.
Don W/Norfolk
Senior Member
I would suggest the relay be one of the "continuous use" variety such as those used in golf carts. Google continuous use high amp relay. http://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp is a good source with lots to chose from. dw
flatheadmurre
Well-known member
That was some real big relays...A normal car relay with dual points usually take 30amp splitting up into a couple of relays and fuses may be a better option since you can get a replacement relay in your local NAPA store...just my thinking.
40cpe
Well-known member
While Hyvolt is getting back to post, here is a picture of the one in my '38.
The section on the right is switched hot, while the left side is constant hot. The relay is mounted on the upper right, but is dark and hard to see. The panel is mounted high on the firewall under the dash and is hard to photograph. The relay and constant hot side is fed through the large yellow wires from the "BAT" post of the ignition switch. All I have connected to the constant hot is the interior light.
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This is a pic of my panel build before it was done. I can get you more picsand all the details if interested, but it's not the only way to do it. I used a panel from a 2000 Windstar. Contains 28 circuits and 6 relays. I work for the electric utility locally and live in a world of complicated wiring so it may not be everyone's cup of tea. Total size is less than 12 square, and I mounted it in the same location as the original.
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To add from my last post, my original coloumn switch activates relays in the panel, which energize a bank of fuses in the box. From those fuses I run a wire to the terminal strip. The terminal strip is where I land the wire to what ever I want to power off of that fuse.
I also have a self canceling turn signal switch that is done and functional. Have not made diagram or wiring print that is legible for anyone else yet, otherwise I'd share it
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I also have a self canceling turn signal switch that is done and functional. Have not made diagram or wiring print that is legible for anyone else yet, otherwise I'd share it
Sent from my LG-LS993 using Tapatalk
I tend to get a little OCD on the wiring sometimes. Another option that I use are "Blue Sea Systems" fuse panels. Marine grade and lots of options. Prices are good also. And relays that are reliable with good prices pictured below. It doesn't cost much more to buy TE or Bosch brands. Stay away from the cheap stuff.
I also use DigiKey to buy my electric parts. Great prices and massive selection
The large relay is good for 75 amps. Small for 20/30
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I also use DigiKey to buy my electric parts. Great prices and massive selection
The large relay is good for 75 amps. Small for 20/30
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Flathead Fever
Well-known member
This is what I use. Standard LR-32 relay. They are not cheap $30.00 to $40.00.
We had fleet vehicles that were melting the electrical plugs on the back of the factory headlight switches. Too much current was going through the switch because of all the additional lights the body builder installed. We modified the circuit so the current went through this relay instead of the switch. Its nice they have that built in fuse.
We had fleet vehicles that were melting the electrical plugs on the back of the factory headlight switches. Too much current was going through the switch because of all the additional lights the body builder installed. We modified the circuit so the current went through this relay instead of the switch. Its nice they have that built in fuse.
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