Break-in gone wrong!

If you are worried about the oil being drained out, take out the sender and use an oil squirt can to pump engine oil into the hole. That will fill up most of the oil passage ways for the start up.
 
You could always take an old chev oil pump, rig up a line and gauge on the output, connect it to your engines oil pressure port, spin the pump up in a bucket of oil, and see if your engine holds oil pressure or if not where it is dumping out.
 
Mart said:
Can't say what your problem is but want to correct a small inaccuracy in your thinking. The oil pump runs at cam speed. It is not geared down 2:1. Some German Flatheads run the distributor off the oil pump drive.
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Thank you. Ya I realized later that the drive gear on the back of the cam and the driven gear on the pump are the same size.
 
rich b said:
You could always take an old chev oil pump, rig up a line and gauge on the output, connect it to your engines oil pressure port, spin the pump up in a bucket of oil, and see if your engine holds oil pressure or if not where it is dumping out.
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I really like this idea. Thank you!
 
Hi Cameron. It's the valve that'll close the gap on the spark plugs, not the piston. Extended tip plugs can have that problem.
 
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Pulled a rod cap and everything was completely coated in oil, which is a good sign. No looks of seizing?.. Tell me what you think.
 
And on the spark plug thing, I have Edelbrock 1115 heads. They say to use a 3/4" reach plug and that is what I put in, but they were too long. Spark plug spacers? cost almost more than the plugs themselves?
 
Cameron Koehn said:
And on the spark plug thing, I have Edelbrock 1115 heads. They say to use a 3/4" reach plug and that is what I put in, but they were too long. Spark plug spacers? cost almost more than the plugs themselves?
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Had similar problem. Just removed some washers off some old plugs. Extra washer on the plug worked foe me.
Phil NZ
 
The bearing looks great. There are many types of 3/4" reach plugs . . . what plug are you running? My guess, something with an extended tip?
 
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I know that someone said this earlier... fuel pump bushing...

I rigged up this primitive primer. The blue cap screws onto the oil jug and I add compressed air to the top(or I guess bottom) of the jug. You can see the oil coming up the bushing, and that's with about 1-3 psi. Now imagine 50-60. I put this oil in through the filter/sender boss. There was enough oil coming out that it wasn't all going through the tiny hole in the bushing. That means it pushed most everywhere else and then came out by way of the oil pump drive cavity.

Now I will attach something GMC Bubba typed 17 years ago.

"I just fired a new flathead on my test stand, engine had good oil pressure but gauge actually had a jerk to it and oil pressure was a bit lower than usual. I didnt like the jerk in the gauge but ran the engine for a minute as well. The breather opening was covered with a piece of masking tape as i hadnt installed the breather yet. After some run time and coming to temp the tape blew off at about 2000 rpm and oil blowed out the hole.
A friend had stoped by and seen this and said the fuel pump hole MUST be pluged to stop this. We pluged the hole with a plug made up on my lathe. The jerk in the gauge went away and the gauge shows 5-10 psi more than it did.
On my engine the open bushing did change the oil pressure.??"

This. This matches mine almost to a tee. Bouncy gauge reading, pressure seemed a little low... Will this fix my problem? I don't know. I hope.
 
With the fuel pump rod out you will get all that oil. For an 8BA without the stock fuel pump, the hole must be blocked off with a shortened rod, bolt or plug.



Bruce Lancaster said:
Here's a starter discussion: http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/oilflow.htm

I've never paid any attention to this stuff as I like mechanical pumps and have never eliminated one...
Routing of oil right there is different between early and late blocks, and only late blocks (and not all of them) have the tinly oil hole.
Will try to find some info adequately describing...
On early block there is absolutely no need to pluggit, but I would leave in a piece of rod with the umbrella...experience shows that leaving out ANY of the various pieces of tin Henry put in to block oil splash in the valley will immediately result in oil either overwhelming the valve guides or coming out somewhere you don't want it!
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Glenn
 
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The Autolite plug you reference is a medium projected tip - which is probably your issue. I don't remember what camshaft you have, but if you have a higher lift cam, that will exasperate the issue.

Here is a link to an NGK racing plug (non-resistor) - with a heat range of '7'. That is a tad bit cold but should work if your ignition is in good shape and your rings are seated.

Give these a try:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-4091
 
Bored&Stroked said:
The Autolite plug you reference is a medium projected tip - which is probably your issue. I don't remember what camshaft you have, but if you have a higher lift cam, that will exasperate the issue.

Here is a link to an NGK racing plug (non-resistor) - with a heat range of '7'. That is a tad bit cold but should work if your ignition is in good shape and your rings are seated.

Give these a try:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/NGK-4091
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Cam is a Schneider with 0.350 lift.

I think my ignition is in good shape as it is all new Mallory stuff. Do I need a resistor plug?
 
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Well after doing some bench work, I came up with a solution; for my heads anyway. Ended up using NGK .750 reach plug br6es B=14mm, R=resistor, 6=heat rng, E=19mm reach, S=standard center electrode. At first it put the plug too deep in the chamber, but found some Arp hardened washers .120 thick that made the end of the plug flush with the chamber and no threads showing. The OD of the washer sits perfect inside the spark plug pocket.
 

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I built a plug, installed it, and used my sub-par primer to test oil flow/press. I got to about 12 psi and chickened out. Not sure how much pressure a 1 qt. oil jug can handle. Now I need to decide if I reassemble or look further for more problems.

Seems like the projects I tackle always have all the bumps possible, so I'm thinking there will be more problems. I know that is not a positive outlook.

Thanks a whole bunch to everyone who is taking the time to help me. I will try to return the favor if I ever have enough knowledge to.
 
big deuce said:
Well after doing some bench work, I came up with a solution; for my heads anyway. Ended up using NGK .750 reach plug br6es B=14mm, R=resistor, 6=heat rng, E=19mm reach, S=standard center electrode. At first it put the plug too deep in the chamber, but found some Arp hardened washers .120 thick that made the end of the plug flush with the chamber and no threads showing. The OD of the washer sits perfect inside the spark plug pocket.
Click to expand...

I also have Edelbrock heads that use 3/4" reach plugs. Here is what I've found:

NGK ZGR5AGP-7102's had an extended tip and were just long enough to cause interference.

Next up, GR4-2635's worked out perfectly. I have a .375" lift cam and there is no issue with the valves hitting the plug. No threads are exposed using the stock washer. These are resister plugs, but I have not seen any difference in performance between these and non-resister plugs.

With previously heads, I purchased a set of plug washers. They came in a pack with four different thicknesses. You'll need to purchase two packs since the 14mm comes with four of each washer thickness.

https://thunderproducts.com/product/spark-plug-indexing-washers/
 
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