Break-in gone wrong!

Considering the pump picks up oil and you can see if flowing nicely out of the discharge port of the housing by just turning the gear by hand shows the oil pump is working correctly. This is certainly a mystery.
If it was me I would follow the path the oil flow must travel to verify there's no big opening that would allow the oil to flow so freely you would not see a build of pressure at the sender port.
Ronnieroadster
 
IMG_20240407_163908658.jpg

IMG_20240407_163858143.jpg
 
Oil pump clearances.

Between gear faces and cap without gasket - 0.0015
Gasket thickness - 0.0065

Total clearance = about 0.008

Ya, plenty of clearance, but I'm not sure how to make it better.

Apparently it lost prime and I saw it before it reprimed? It looks like a careful assembly is in my engines future?.
 
oldbugger said:
This what i was getting too, big internal oil leak
Click to expand...

Why then would it have had oil pressure for the first half hour of run time? I had someone else install the cam bearings. I have no clue how it was "clocked". I did make sure before I installed the cam that the bearing feed holes matched the block. I didn't want to starve the crank or cam for that matter.
 
Could it have something to do with either one of the oil pressure relief valves? I recall wondering why there was one in the sump oil pump, and one in the block on my C59A.
 
Is there any chance the block could have been modified at some point in the past for 90% full flow external filter? If so the horizontal passageway in the oil gallery might have a grub screw in it.

Long shot and does not fully explain things but easy to check and rule out.

Is the plug fitted correctly behind the cam gear?

I'm not an 8BA guy. these might not apply.

Mart.
 
I don’t think installing the rear cam bearing sideways to block the fuel pump pushrod hole is a well-known trick. I kinda doubt your installer did it, but you can check by putting the pushrod in and seeing if it is stopped by the cam bearing or if it rides on the cam lobe. If the pushrod goes all the way down to the cam, that’s definitely a problem. I think people install a plug or even put the pushrod back in.
 
Last edited:
Fritz said:
I don’t think installing the rear cam bearing sideways to block the fuel pump pushrod hole is a well-known trick. I kinda doubt your installer did it, but you can check by putting the pushrod in and seeing if it is stopped by the cam bearing or if it rides on the cam lobe. If the pushrod goes all the way down to the cam, that’s definitely a problem. I think people install a plug or even put the pushrod back in.
Click to expand...

I never had a pushrod. If I look down the pushrod hole I can see the cam lobe. Remember, this is an 8ba block. The pushrod bushing is installed.
 
Ziggster said:
Could it have something to do with either one of the oil pressure relief valves? I recall wondering why there was one in the sump oil pump, and one in the block on my C59A.
Click to expand...

An 8ba only has a pressure relief on the pump. I did get to wondering if the plug at the front threaded itself out?(this can't be,,,it was TIGHT!)
 
Ok. I've been following this thread from the beginning but held my tongue. I know its unlikely but when the pump gear gets up to running temp could it spin on the shaft under load then cool off and seem normal when removed and visually inspected. I'm referring to the gear on the shaft that actually moves the oil in the bottom of the pump. Tim
 
Cameron Koehn said:
I never had a pushrod. If I look down the pushrod hole I can see the cam lobe. Remember, this is an 8ba block. The pushrod bushing is installed.
Click to expand...

Not a bushing, but a plug or grub screw to block or close that hole off. Without the push rod in place, oil will be forced through that hole. In a stock set-up, the push rod would cause resistance to the flow of oil through that hole. Now there is nothing stopping it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top