39 coupe

adileo said:
Will do as suggested by you and Tubman. It will only be on to test out.

I’m working my way down the list.

1 carbs cleaned and reset - need to finish that this am
2 jumper to coil
3 points and rotor

It’s not the pump. I recall now when car would not start I verified it was pumping fuel to carbs.
Click to expand...

Are you 6 or 12v as per previous posts not normally required the resistor if running 12 v. Only required with 6v when running original type coil.
Phil NZ
 
Ok guys...

While tuning the carbs the car stalled and would not restart. I did the jumper from battery to coil and it started. I also noticed that when I got in car with jumper attached my electric fuel pump was running with the switch in off position.

So couple questions:

1 should the pump run when jumped and switch off?
2 what’s next step? Replace resistor or ignition - clean or replace?
 
1. The current supplied by the jumper wire is feeding back to the switch through the regular ignition feed wire and feeding the pump circuit. It;s not unusual and a result of not disconnecting the original wires.

2. Do you have a multi-Meter? If so check the resistance through the switch and also the resistor unit.
 
I put installed a new (guts) to ignition switch. Car ran for about 5 minutes at idle then - stalled - could not restart. I put jumper back on battery to coil. Still would not start.

One more point: when it wouldn’t start and without jumper I got 4 volts at coil.

Tested the condenser and it’s good. Is there a way to test the coil? Or should I take out distro and replace points
 
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adileo said:
I put installed a new (guts) to ignition switch. Car ran for about 5 minutes at idle then - stalled - could not restart. I put jumper back on battery to coil. Still would not start.

Tested the condenser and it’s good. Is there a way to test the coil? Or should I take out distro and replace points
Click to expand...

Do you have a spare coil? Otherwise check primary resistance should be around 0.8 ohms and secondary resistance around 9 to 10 kohms.
Noted you were showing at previous post 6.1v at coil?
Did you check voltage at distributor this will be around 3.5v with the correct resistor in the circuit using an original coil. If its Skips coil chances of faulty are very slim. I sould go for a distributor swap.
Phil NZ
 
How did you test the condenser? Condenser testers are not very common and expensive. Plus they can be effected by heat and cycling.

If you have a multi-meter, you can do a preliminary test of the coil by checking the resistance of the primary and secondary circuits. The primary should be low (in the range of 1.5 to 3 ohms), and the secondary should be 8000 ohms and up. I don't know if those are the exact numbers for your situation, but you get the idea. Again. heat and cycling can effect the operation of the coil.
 
Thanks Phil

No start cranking at coil 4 volts. I have 3 coils 1 Skip others can’t recall how I got them. So I want to test all three

This is stock Helmet distro. Please help me understand - primary resistance and secondary.
Also to check these two I remove coil from car?
 
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You have to know the parts you are working with, different coils will have different resistance values. A "can" coil is going to be different from an original Ford distributor mounted coil and the ballast resistor requirements are going to be very different. Mixing and matching parts have to play together!

On a 6v system a 1.5 ohm can coil does not use a ballast resistor. Any original style Ford coil like is mounted on a helmet distributor does require a ballast resistor (unless Skip wound it to some other value than the original Ford specs).
 

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Jerry

I have a helmet distro. Stock 6v.

Skip coil sits on top of
Bubba 11a distro
Ballest resistor under dash

I would like to test the coil. On top there is a pin which coil wire attaches with a screw on but. On side is for condenser which bolt on with one of two screws that mount coil to distro.

Under coil is a spring and a rod that sits into rotor center
 
When checking the voltage at the coil it is going to depend on if the points are open or closed when you are checking it. With the points open it should check somewhere near battery voltage. With the points closed it should be somewhere around 3.5 volts (when going through the ballast resistor). With the jumper wire you at sending battery voltage to the coil and points. That is OK for a short period of time to test. If I remember you have a relay operating the fuel pump, so would not take much back feed through the ignition switch to trigger the relay.
 
Jerry your correct about relay.

Can the coil be tested off the car? If yes how and what is primary and secondary?

Thanks for your patience.
 
The primary is the circuit from the connecter that is wired to the ignition switch to the connecter that goes to the condenser. The secondary is the circuit that goes from the connecter that is wired to the ignition switch to the large terminal that supplies high voltage to the rotor.
 
Jerry

When cranking and test lead on the (helmet) coil I’m only seeing 3.5 to 4 volts. I though lt that was the resistor doing it’s job. Am I supposed to see 3 & 6 with the points opening and closing? If yes then the point are the problem
 
With the engine cranking, the points are opening and closing too fast for the meter to register instantaneously. You'll see a sort of average. DD
 
Here is a page from Bubbas site that shows him testing a coil:

http://www.bubbasignition.com/ignition-coils-.html

"When cranking and test lead on the (helmet) coil I’m only seeing 3.5 to 4 volts."

That is about right on, you are not going to see it move around much if you have an electronic voltmeter. An analog meter should jump a little. I though you posted earlier that you were seeing 6.1 volts at the coil? If so, that part all sounds correct.
 
adileo said:
K thanks DD. I’m not sure how I figure out what is causing this problem.....
Click to expand...

Quick test as mentioned earlier. With some assistance, crank it over with one plug wire removed and hold close to plug to see if getting a spark jump from lead to spark plug. Or get hold og int inline tester for this as suggested previously also. If no spark then 3 options, coil, condenser or distributor.
Again I would suggest the Skip's coil wont be a problem. To measure resistances for these coils it needs to be removed from distributor.
Phil NZ
 
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