39 coupe
- Thread starter adileo
- Start date
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
Every post I read on this thread, makes me think of something that needs to be checked carefully to be able to rule out whether certain components are either good or possibly defective, or a person could chase their tail on something like this for a long time.
Just reading these last few posts made me think of these....
1.) To check that coil ballist resistor, that's on the firewall behind the dash, I would suggest disconnecting one side to remove it from the circuit, and measure its resistance when it's cold and after its been heated. It's very possible for that wire wound resistor to function normal when cold, and intermittently when warm/hot. You could also check this with a DC voltmeter when it's in its energized (functioning) circuit. Also, if you have a known good replacement resistor, replace the one in your car now with that new one.
2.) Your electric fuel pump could also be operating intermittently, for several different reasons, and that could cause the problem you are having....so that possibility needs to be carefully check out.
3.) I agree with a previous statement that Skip's coils are normally good/infallible, BUT...I know of a situation where one of his coils was literally fried to a crisp due to user error. I have also seen them failed by unintentionally leaving the ignition switch "on" for an extended period of time....otherwise known as forgetfulness
So, make sure that Skip Haney coil is good. Again, they must be checked when cold, AND....when heated.
4.) This is hindsight, but testing the switch should have been done as a separate test. I would have suggested jumpering the terminals on back of switch with a wire and an alligator clip attached to each end. If the switch contacts were operating intermittently, the jumper would temporarily correct that, possibly allowing the engine to keep running.
I'll come back and add to this list after rereading some of the other posts.....
Just reading these last few posts made me think of these....
1.) To check that coil ballist resistor, that's on the firewall behind the dash, I would suggest disconnecting one side to remove it from the circuit, and measure its resistance when it's cold and after its been heated. It's very possible for that wire wound resistor to function normal when cold, and intermittently when warm/hot. You could also check this with a DC voltmeter when it's in its energized (functioning) circuit. Also, if you have a known good replacement resistor, replace the one in your car now with that new one.
2.) Your electric fuel pump could also be operating intermittently, for several different reasons, and that could cause the problem you are having....so that possibility needs to be carefully check out.
3.) I agree with a previous statement that Skip's coils are normally good/infallible, BUT...I know of a situation where one of his coils was literally fried to a crisp due to user error. I have also seen them failed by unintentionally leaving the ignition switch "on" for an extended period of time....otherwise known as forgetfulness
So, make sure that Skip Haney coil is good. Again, they must be checked when cold, AND....when heated.
4.) This is hindsight, but testing the switch should have been done as a separate test. I would have suggested jumpering the terminals on back of switch with a wire and an alligator clip attached to each end. If the switch contacts were operating intermittently, the jumper would temporarily correct that, possibly allowing the engine to keep running.
I'll come back and add to this list after rereading some of the other posts.....
Last edited:
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I saw that, and that's the worse thing to do when posting a thread trying to get help on a problem situation like this
