34 tuning, running, etc…

34 fordor owner

34 fordor owner

Senior Member
34 tuning, running, etc…

Creating another forum…this time with good news and questions….I’ll continue to post my update videos here I highly appreciate all the input. I got my new fuel line flex line on today and I ran into an issue where the threads on my pump are really messed up but no leaks and the car still ran off the fuel pump. I was able to drive 2 laps around the block and it went very well!! Before it stopped running (2 years ago) it was backfiring a lot but this time there were some small pops from 2nd to third but not much at all. With all this I tuned the Holley 94 carb based off other posts I have read. Turn in until the screw bottom out, 1-1/2 turns back out. Then let it warm up and I turned the screw in until it started to die and backed them back out a little. Is this all correct? I included 2 videos of it idling to see if anyone can tell me anything. The first video is before it went around the block and I can hear a vacuum leak or maybe not a leak? somewhere but wasn’t sure where from. The second video is from after the drive around the block and I pointed out the fuel and bowl were nasty so that will be taken back off and cleaned before the next drive. As well as the tank will be drained. Adding to this I need to get my oil bath air cleaner restored as well as my oil breather. Thanks for all the help!

https://youtu.be/a_sjkgXytwU?si=p0InGTr7L1dv4Ea6
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Get the NAPA fuel filter that installs in the glass bowl #3039 ?
Backfire may be from engine valves sticking from sitting unused. MMO in the engine oil can't hurt. As well as driving more. valves usually stick at higher RPM than idle. Backfire shows up while letting off the gas.
Use a vacuum gauge to set the engine idle mixture adjustment screws. Set both screws alternating back and forth for the highest vacuum. Adj screws in = leaner, You want the highest vacuum on the rich side not the leans. If you don't have a vacuum gauge get one since it can also indicate sticking valves at idle, plus additional troubles such as vacuum leaks.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Terry said:
Get the NAPA fuel filter that installs in the glass bowl #3039 ?
Backfire may be from engine valves sticking from sitting unused. MMO in the engine oil can't hurt. As well as driving more. valves usually stick at higher RPM than idle. Backfire shows up while letting off the gas.
Use a vacuum gauge to set the engine idle mixture adjustment screws. Set both screws alternating back and forth for the highest vacuum. Adj screws in = leaner, You want the highest vacuum on the rich side not the leans. If you don't have a vacuum gauge get one since it can also indicate sticking valves at idle, plus additional troubles such as vacuum leaks.
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Will do this! Also I believe there are grease fittings on the water pumps? If so what is the best grease to use here and what is the best grease to use on all fittings?
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

It sounds good idling. The idle screws should only affect it at idle. It sounds like you adjusted them correctly, just make sure they are both backed out exactly the same amount. I have a flathead in a '32 roadster that was my dad's. It set for years before I got it, and it's been sitting ever since. It ran fine when it was originally parked but now it has at least one valve sticking open, definitely a stuck intake valve, it won't idle as nicely as yours does. I haven't had time to mess with it, plus I had a stroke. Your problem could be a plug wire, a carb needing a rebuild or maybe an intermittent sticking valve. It could be starving for fuel when it backfires. Could be a fuel pump, could be a restricted fuel tank, could be old fuel. I was a mechanic for 30-years. I hate making predictions because there are so many possibilities. I'd increase the idle with it parked until it starts to screw-up and then spray some card cleaner it while it's missing and see if it straightens out. If it's valve which I doubt because of how well it's idling, you want to hook a vacuum gauge to an "intake" port, when it misfires the needle will momentarily drop if it's a valve problem.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Flathead Fever said:
It sounds good idling. The idle screws should only affect it at idle. It sounds like you adjusted them correctly, just make sure they are both backed out exactly the same amount. I have a flathead in a '32 roadster that was my dad's. It set for years before I got it, and it's been sitting ever since. It ran fine when it was originally parked but now it has at least one valve sticking open, definitely a stuck intake valve, it won't idle as nicely as yours does. I haven't had time to mess with it, plus I had a stroke. Your problem could be a plug wire, a carb needing a rebuild or maybe an intermittent sticking valve. It could be starving for fuel when it backfires. Could be a fuel pump, could be a restricted fuel tank, could be old fuel. I was a mechanic for 30-years. I hate making predictions because there are so many possibilities. I'd increase the idle with it parked until it starts to screw-up and then spray some card cleaner it while it's missing and see if it straightens out. If it's valve which I doubt because of how well it's idling, you want to hook a vacuum gauge to an "intake" port, when it misfires the needle will momentarily drop if it's a valve problem.
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Increasing idle doesn’t make it backfire normally, it only backfires a tiny pop or two when letting off gas when driving it. I’ve only gone around the block twice a short distance cause I’m unsure where the water pumps are at (I want to grease those once a I’m sure on a grease fitting). I had the idle set a little higher and when I tried starting it backfired very loudly so I figured that was too much fuel pouring in and being unburnt. Bad fuel is definitely a possibility I plan to drain the tank and putting a fuel filter in before driving again.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

For the water pumps use the least expensive and lowest temperature grease. Unscrew the brass covers and expose the grease fitting. Not a typical Zerk it does not have a check ball inside to prevent grease from coming back out. It is that way so if overfilled the grease will escape. You can also remove the fitting and use a needle point grease fitting on your lube pump to insert the grease fill all the way then reinsert the Zerk.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Terry said:
For the water pumps use the least expensive and lowest temperature grease. Unscrew the brass covers and expose the grease fitting. Not a typical Zerk it does not have a check ball inside to prevent grease from coming back out. It is that way so if overfilled the grease will escape. You can also remove the fitting and use a needle point grease fitting on your lube pump to insert the grease fill all the way then reinsert the Zerk.
Click to expand...


Perfect! Exactly what I was looking for you, thank you! Drove the car again today with a fuel filter in and the small carb pops increased. Could an air leak in the fuel pump cause pops? Next on my agenda is to inspect the brakes because…safety. Then, grease the water pumps and probably flush the cooling system to ensure it’s running cool. Honestly the list goes on and on there is plenty to do. Christmas is coming up if anyone wants to buy me gifts… car parts please!! Thank you!
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Backfiring us usually a timing issue but can be caused by both over rich and over lean mixtures. As it seemed to get worse after removing the glass bowl lets address that first. The gasket at the glass bowl needs to be air tight and can leak in air with pump suction which can affect fuel flow and thus mixture ratio. I'd re-face the glass bowl ground surface on a piece of 100 grit sandpaper taped to a pane of glass to make sure it is perfectly flat. Move the bowl in a figure 8 pattern until it looks evenly frosted and go up to 220 grit and then up to 400 grit which should be good enough. Replace the gasket as the rubber ones get very hard with age. Tighten it up real well and see if that fixes your issue. If there are big chips at the edge from it having been dropped in the past it will need to be replaced. NAPA carries several bowls, just need to compare sizes and match up. https://www.napaonline.com/en/shop/...ers-related-parts/fuel-filter-bowls/336669292
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Here is a another video for everyone. It hates the cold maybe because I’m running 50 weight non detergent in it at the moment so after a few drives I plan to change it out to 40. After it warms up and drives it sounds pretty good and clear. Still working on the popping issue it only pops under a load such as coming up a hill. I also have not driven it for too long as a I don’t know how hot or if it’s getting to hot yet. I plan to get a temp gun. As far as the mechanical fuel pumps go, I guess as long as they are spinning, not screaming, or leaking they are doing well? Next will be properly checking the brakes but they seem to do pretty well on my short drives. Also fluid changes in the rear and gear trans. I’m using NAPA stalube 140 for all those. Any suggestions or ideas?
Thank you all!

https://youtu.be/3G3LxvFCq_8?si=4EMYQVmvIUn4p4am
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Have you checked the dwell? i had a similar issue fought carb and fuel for weeks (thought it was fuel related) checked the dwell it was off. i tuned it, runs like a top, little fat now that its cold but starts right up idles good acceleration no backfires. may want to check the dwell just to be safe? plugs get fouled and cause some backfiring also..
good luck.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

gingerkid said:
Have you checked the dwell? i had a similar issue fought carb and fuel for weeks (thought it was fuel related) checked the dwell it was off. i tuned it, runs like a top, little fat now that its cold but starts right up idles good acceleration no backfires. may want to check the dwell just to be safe? plugs get fouled and cause some backfiring also..
good luck.
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Unfortunately I have not only because I have the dome distributor. I have had it rebuilt twice already. Is there a way to adjust dwell in a dome distributor without the special machine?
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

I would check the dwell with a meter see where its at before you need to adjust, eliminate that, then if its off and go from there. dome distributor? the diver helmet style? you can adjust its just a pain in the butt! easiest is on a machine. have you changed plugs and been able to check them? mine cold start fires right away doesn't crank longer than a couple turns, pull the choke pump a couple times and set the idle. when the weather is warm starts right up. i am still running 6 volt. i was told at one time to think of it as a 8 cylinder briggs and stratton simple.
 
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Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

I sent the distributors on my '34 and '37 Fords to Charly-NY. He did his thing to them and when I replaced them on both cars they started right up and ran great. The price was reasonable, and the service was fast.
 
34 tuning, running, etc…

Had a little bit of time to go and mess around on the car for a few…I’ve just been super busy. I made sure the water was good and got it started up, ever since it been cold and I’ve been driving it only takes about 2 turns and it fires up. We have some winter weather coming through the night so I wasn’t able to take it on road speeds just around the block (the main roads have been salted didn’t wanna drive in that!) with that drive it didn’t seem to leak any water, it’s definitely coming out the overflow. When I started it it was below the bottom hole after the drive it had risen. Also from what I could tell the water was moving while the was just running alone so the pumps should be working. So why does so much water come up and out the overflow at higher speeds? MEANT TO POST THIS IN MY RADIATOR FORUM
31f47cb37413e3e702109b991d7ffe4d.jpg
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Adding to this forum as I continue work. I got the spewing of coolant figured out I’m trying to figure out this popping issue. 1st and 2nd gear speeds are fine and sounds great, idling is good as well. But when I’m at a decent road speed pressing the gas under a load it starts popping and especially under 3rd gear pressing the gas it has a popping coming from what seems to be the carb. Almost like it’s getting too much gas and not enough power. It’s weird. I have a video where it kinda sounds like there may be a vaccum or it could just be the carb I can’t really tell. I was told to check the dwell but it’s not very easy for the dome style distributors and I’ve already had it rebuilt twice and had the coil rebuilt. I in the video is a picture of my nasty oil breather I need to change out and what seems to be a very little amount of clear smoke or steam coming from the cap area. https://youtu.be/kMBvESbBUIg?si=9U30ags7N-BT9bX5
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Do you run it with the air filter off? They were often called silencers in the literature of the era as the multi chambers quieted the incoming rush of air. Running without it also will result in an off air/fuel ratio. Similarly a not properly maintained air cleaner (improperly oiled or excessively dirty or dry element) can throw off the air/fuel ratio.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

The Art Doctor said:
Do you run it with the air filter off? They were often called silencers in the literature of the era as the multi chambers quieted the incoming rush of air. Running without it also will result in an off air/fuel ratio. Similarly a not properly maintained air cleaner (improperly oiled or excessively dirty or dry element) can throw off the air/fuel ratio.
Click to expand...


Well you know what, I do! I have it I just haven’t cleaned it or oiled it. I know I soak it in kerosene and oil it right? I didn’t know that it have such a difference. I will give this a try.
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

Owners manual states to wash in gasoline and oil with motor oil I believe. Kerosene should work, I have one of those solvent wash tanks with the brush and pump. I sprayed mine with K&N air filter oil from an aerosol can, because I have some on the shelf and its easy to apply. I wonder if anyone has a recommendation or a reason not to use a properly sized modern paper (or reusable K&N style) filter. We, at least I, don't live on dirt roads anymore and possibly the modern filters could match the usage circumstances at bit better than oiled swarfs of metal?
 
Re: 34 tuning, running, etc…

My 33 has a different air clear to my 34, the 33 one is very easy to fit a paper element to part number Donaldson777483
the 34 not so.
Lawrie
 
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