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My motor is basically stock with a lion speed 4 head and headers....internals are all stock.....I installed a FSI electronic distributor (not the zipper) and been running it at that for a couple years, but would like to fine tune it...they say to set initial timing at 0 then advance till it...

SOLD Have complete Clings adapter for 37-39 V8 ****** to banger motor. Brand new, never used $400.00 for everything picked up here or add shipping. tried posting pics but this site wont do it...e me and I can provide pics if needed.

Here’s my issue....1930 tudor...right hand door is in locked position, so I can’t rotate shaft enough to release it from latch...no key...how do I remove this door latch so I can replace. I can get the door open from slop in old latch but would like to replace it so I can lock it.

Has anyone installed a PVC valve in a banger engine. If so, any tips. Thanks Ron

Thanks Mac....shoulda called you in the first place...your always great to speak with...hope the weather is treating you fine back there Ron

yes it is like this pic. Got it from Macs and it says for flathead V8....will this not work? if it will, what do I do with the strap?

picked up a new starter for my 37 21 stud engine. What is the brass/copper strap for that is attached to the stud.

just picked up a new starter for my 21 stud 37 engine. What is the brass/copper strap for that is attached. the original starter did not have one.

Have brand new, never used 9" pressure plate, disc and alignment tool. bought 9" when I needed 10" $120.00 shipped thanks Ron

so do they have to float both over the crank journal AND inside the rod at the same time or just either one freely.

Thanks all...yes they are flanged on my engine

the new rod bearings for my 37 are flanged. Do these still need to be fitted using the hammer method?

this is the rear main the other two main bearings are not marked but they mic exactly the same thickness as the rear main. I think the mains marked A2 is std, G2 is 0.010 and U2 is 0.020 as best I can tell....boy this info is hard to come by

Looking to determine if 1937 21 stud engine crank is ground undersize. Looked in oil groove of main bearing and nothing but on the back of the shell it says....Ford (script) USA-T G2....do these numbers mean anything to anyone Thanks Ron

ive got about .035 endplay and should be, from what i can find .01 to .015. . I miced the flanges on the cap half of the bearing shell and have.069 and .064 on flywheel side. so i think i need to make about .025 or .030 overall. With dimensions you gave me it should put me back to around to...

can anyone tell me that the main bearing thrust dimensions are on a standard main bearing, im looking for the thickness of the thrust flange on the bearing. Ive got a little excess clearance but the thrust surfaces look to be worn a little thin and wondering if a new set of bearing shells will...

are intake manifolds interchangeable between 21 and 24 stud motors. thanks

My 30 Tudor has the passenger door lock in the locked position with no key. Ive tried removing all the screws and rotating as far as I can but the shaft is just short of rotating enough to remove it from the door. I would like to be able to lock/unlock this door, but cant get the door handle...

found a 37 ****** to go with my 37 21 stud for my 30 Tudor. The 37 trans is complete less tail section and u joint. Can i use the tail section off my 30 trans on this 37 trans. if not what do I need to have to couple it to my closed drive line. Thanks Ron

Got the short block going back together and I plan on using an electric fuel pump and want to eliminate the mechanical fuel pump but there is a scoop mounted on top that I assume is to help vacate crankcase pressure. What steps do i need to take and is there anything i need to plug off in the...