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Thanks Rick, is this the same for the seal?? i.e fits from 1949-71 Cheers

Hi, I'm after a part number of the rear bush and seal for the extension housing on a ford o matic transmission. ( three speed, starts in second and has kick back to first or low gear on the colum. The transmission is in an Australian 57 ( your 56 ) ford Customline. It seems that I have three...

To confirm the compression leak into the cooling system get your local garage to do a TK test which confirms CO2 gases in the cooling system...depending on how bad the leak might be you could also check the spark plugs as the faulty cinders spark plug would be very clean....does the engine miss...

If you oil is coming out of between the plate and the block you need to replace the gasket and then re bend the plate so it has more tension when it is fixed to the block... Or buy another plate

The lower gear is normal, this is the top dead centre of the steering (straight ahead position), did you have a look at the sector shaft adjustment, you can take out a bit of play with that...but like Ole Don said compare the lost motion with a car of that era not a car of today.

Check the flex plate bolts to the torque converter

Installation is much easier, if you have a vice you can use that with piece of pipe that fit over small part of the bushes an press them into the pipe, remember that the shaft has to be in place before you press the second one in, cut the piece of pipe so it fits over the shaft then use the vice...

Or if you don't have oxy you can drill the rubber part of the bush out the do the rest.

Do you mean the holes that allows coolant into the manifold on one side and that has the temp sender in it on the other and then the plug in the right rear near the disy is the one you refer?

Heat and a hammer... When installing you press the first bush in then push the shaft through and then install the second bush, so removal is reversed however you will find when you heat it the rubber will burn this removes the bond of the inner part on the bush so that allows the shaft the fall...

What sort of gasket have you used... If it a felpro ( blue) type it's one torque at cold, what I do is torque it to final torque mark the bolts then loosen then re torque to final, you will get an extra quarter of a turn then no re torque required... 90 lbs is correct for the extra bang!! Cheers

Vaccum advance in its stock form is generally for fuel economy, like mentioned before if you hook up a timing light and a rev gauge bring it to let's say 2000rpm which would simulate cruising speed ( ie no load) and if on ported vacuum from the carb the advance should be added at the end of the...

I suppose if all depends on how low you go and how much travel your left with, with the blocks you pictured the control arm bump stops would be pretty close to the chassis, I tried that size!!!... See picture, so I decided on the 6mm spacer with standard springs as you still have the travel and...

You can lower these cars without buying new springs or shocks and retain the smooth ride, all you need are 12 high tensile bolts and some flat bar. Remove the 6 rivets on the lower control arm spring retainer ( I had the control arms off when I did this), once this is done cut the flat bar to...

I've used the Monroe gt gas reflex on my 57 Customline and it give a nice ride not to firm but doesn't wollow and used all the original hardware, go to the Monroe website and ring the support line, supply them with the measurements and they will match it got you. From memory they were from a...

Just an update so we all know the answer for next time... The tailshaft had a slight amount of run out as did the rear axle but the main cause was a problem with the new front uni I fitted having play on the yoke axis (manufacturering issue) fitted a another brand of uni and it is super smooth now.

Just an update, Jacked the car and ran in gear, the tail shaft has a little run out but nothing to significate (however I will get it balanced) but it looks like the left rear axle is bent ( tried a different wheel to eliminate) not sure how or why , so I'll get this straighten and go from...

If you can't find the correct seal you could replace the wheel bearing with a sealed type and use a rtv sealant to seal the bearing to the housing, this works find and doesn't leak, I've done this when the sealing area has a groove and won't seal

Thanks for the info guys, all seems to point to unis, as rick has said it was difficult to find the rear uni down here in oz, I will try the 180 trick see if that works, hadn't looked much at the tyres as it didn't do I before but I will rule them out as well... Changing the tail shaft round or...

Hi look looking for some thoughts... Recently replaced both front and rear uni joints and rear brakes on my 57 customline also pulled the left axel to re seal it, drives really smooth until I get to around 90km's per hour then I get a vibration which seems to be through the whole car it sort of...