Recent content by PeterBo

I have recently installed a Brassworks open pressure radiator in my 1929 Phaeton. Bought it from Bert's in Denver (and transported it as personal luggage to Australia). No installation problems BUT cleaned block thoroughly before installing and installed a temperature gauge at the same time...

Over the last few days I have replaced the radiator in my 1929 Model A phaeton. Here in Oz, we get some hot days and last summer I had a few days where 'Betsy' got very close to boiling. I suspect that the radiator then was original and partially clogged. Heat gun on the radiator registered...

Hmmmm, that condensation idea is a really good thought. It has been bl...dy cold where we are and I only ran the car for 15 minutes before draining the oil. The ‘condensate’ is really white, not green, as is the antifreeze. Not an option to test the white fluid as I didn’t keep it after taking...

I have just changed the engine oil - No problems. I was emptying the drain pan into a drum for responsible disposal when at the bottom of the pan, I noticed some white streaks. These milky white streaks (see picture) are evidence of coolant in the oil, but only a very small amount!! The...

Many thanks guys. As I now look at it, you are correct and the inner clevis pin would foul with the drum. Seemed odd when reassembling but you are correct.

Hi David. I am about to do exactly the same thing but I have bought a new 10 tube per inch radiator to replace the old from Berts. I have not had a good look inside the water jacket yet. Reason for doing this is that I am getting overheating issues when the outside temperature gets above about...

Yes Dave. There are Hasslers on each side of the rear but no shocks on the front. These have operated faultlessly since I bought the car five years ago!!!!

On the attached picture, I show the rear brake drum on my 1929 Model A. You can see the that the emergency brake pins all have split pins but they face the inside of the car and hence are not easily visible. The rear service brake however has split pins that face outwards from the car and...

Did this to my Model A when the original running board edging was damaged. If the stainless edging has a lip, then it goes on the side of the board with the lip over the rubber mat. You may need to glue the mat before installing edging. Use stainless screws too!!,

Interesting. I note that the item in your checklist 30ccpickup says to 'Tighten to frame'. My understanding was that the rear muffler support was designed to be oversize to enclose the exhaust pipe and so allow expansion - Not to be tight and lock it to the frame.

Going to be a balmy 31degrees C (that’s 87.8 degrees F) here in Jindabyne, NSW.

Did a Google search for 'Tune Master Gas Analyser' and came up with a couple for sale in Oz. One is labelled Repco and may have an Instruction Manual with it (link is to https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/491695453/20-off-tune-master-no-6-exhaust-gas?ref=market). Hope this helps...

This car does not have front shocks. The knobs on the Spring perches are there but no shocks or linkages. Interestingly but not uncommon in Oz, the rear has Hassler shocks and these seem to operating just fine. I have checked the springs visually (but without taking them off at this stage) and...

I have a RHS drive 1929 Phaeton and it has a significant lean to the right (drivers side) of about 1 inch lower body on the right. I have tried greasing front and rear springs, adjusting U bolt tension and order of tightening as described in other posts. The problem is a bit improved by doing...

I am interested in this as I have been timing a new distributor using the Nurex wrench but haven't checked against Les Andrews Ford method. If it is a few degrees retarded using Nurex, and I can determine approximately how many degrees off, I can compensate and use this simpler method. I can...