Timing

captndan

captndan

Well-known member
Searched many posts and still can't find the answer. After new head gasket and radiator/block cleaning the timing was set in the usual way. I suspect the timing is retarded because it runs best with the lever all the way down. The car rapidly overheats. So if I move the distributor cam a little CCW will this advance the spark and give the lever more control? Thanks
 
Yes CCW to advance.....doing the head gasket and flush should not cause the timing to move,,unless you loosened and turned the rotor
 
SO lets back up a second - why did you replace the headgasket and clean everything?

Could have a cracked block/head allowing exhaust gasses in the cooling system or a warped head not sealing.

You can try the timing as it is free and easy to do.

How did you clean the radiator BTW?
 
Could it be that:

1. Before radiator/block cleaning, & changing head gasket it overheated; and,

2. Suspected cause of overheating was that radiator/block needed cleaning so it would not overheat; and,

3. Now, after changing head gasket and radiator/block cleaning, it still overheats.

4. So now, could overheating be a result of improper timing?

Sounds like it could possibly be radiator problems ........ which is one of the root causes of Model A overheating.

But just guessing.
 
"Now, after changing head gasket and radiator/block cleaning, it still overheats."

could this mean it was the timing to begin with....
 
Explanations: The overheating started when the key on the water pump shaft sheared off in the fan hub. The engine overheated and caused a crack on the radiator neck. This also may have caused a small leak from the head gasket because of an improperly torqued stud at the neck. At pulling the head I noticed that the distributor shaft bearings were a bit sloppy. I rebuilt the water pump with a new fan. Rebuilt the distributor with new parts. The head required .022 to get it flat again. Back together and the timing mark used for #1 TDC. A Nu-Way wrench was used to set the distributor cam. The engine started OK but I could tell the timing was off even with the lever all the way down. At high idle it sounded fine. It reached 220 deg. in maybe three minutes. Shut the key off and the engine backfired. No sign of water leaks anywhere. I will re-torque the head before starting again. Any ideas? Thanks BTW the cleaning was done with white vinegar and the neck repaired.
 
hmm could be bad timing but could also be exhaust gasses getting into the cooling system - that will boil coolant quickly.

vinegar cleaning seems to remove rust if left for a week but not much goop. when i cleaned my radiator (took it off and laid it face down) I filled it with degreasing cleaner on full concentrate overnight then back flushed it. Alot of clear grease/goop came out in blobs.

did you remove the radiator and backflush?
 
tbirdtbird said:
. If it gets that hot in 3 minutes I can guarantee the timing is late. A late motor will run hotter than hell

He even states he could tell the timing was off. A late timed motor will be louder than a properly timed motor

I have never had the Nu-Way or Nu-Rex stuff in my hands so have no idea exactly what it comprises. I would go back to the Ford way; something is off somewhere. Can you borrow a timing light to confirm spark at TDC at idle as a double-triple check?
Click to expand...

Dave's right on
I have a nurex wrench ,,,it gets it close but not on the money.. I usually find its a few degrees off compared to doing it the proper way... Sounds like it's further off than that tho...
If u don't have air being pumped into the tank and good flow, timing on the money ,,, Ck your rad with yo thermal laser gun
Keep us posted
 
Last edited:
As to the timing....
I bought a Nu-Rex wrench for possible use on the road.
My A was running fine until I 'tried' the Nu-Rex procedure per the written instructions and viewing the video.
To make my story short, I re-timed it per Les Andrews's ignition timing instructions and my A runs fine again.
The Nu-Rex will stay on my shelf.
 
RRW said:
As to the timing....
I bought a Nu-Rex wrench for possible use on the road.
My A was running fine until I 'tried' the Nu-Rex procedure per the written instructions and viewing the video.
To make my story short, I re-timed it per Les Andrews's ignition timing instructions and my A runs fine again.
The Nu-Rex will stay on my shelf.
Click to expand...

I have been saying that it's not precision but can come in handy on the road to get ya going possibly...

How many degrees do you think you were off using the wrench????
 
I'm sure the Nu-Rex is a good tool .
I must have messed up on the 'lash' and the 'exact' spot to stop the white triangle.
As in a lot of instances, "it is not the computer's fault but the operator's", which
would be me.
I'll put it back in my toolbag.
 
RRW said:
I'm sure the Nu-Rex is a good tool .
I must have messed up on the 'lash' and the 'exact' spot to stop the white triangle.
As in a lot of instances, "it is not the computer's fault but the operator's", which
would be me.
I'll put it back in my toolbag.
Click to expand...

I find I usually end up a few degrees off from spec using it...
 
I am interested in this as I have been timing a new distributor using the Nurex wrench but haven't checked against Les Andrews Ford method. If it is a few degrees retarded using Nurex, and I can determine approximately how many degrees off, I can compensate and use this simpler method. I can also cross check with a timing light.

I have not noticed overheating but have been running with the Advance lever quite a long way down (in the lower quadrant). I will check and try and post results.
 
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