My motor is basically stock with a lion speed 4 head and headers....internals are all stock.....I installed a FSI electronic distributor (not the zipper) and been running it at that for a couple years, but would like to fine tune it...they say to set initial timing at 0 then advance till it...
SOLD
Have complete Clings adapter for 37-39 V8 ****** to banger motor. Brand new, never used
$400.00 for everything picked up here or add shipping.
tried posting pics but this site wont do it...e me and I can provide pics if needed.
Here’s my issue....1930 tudor...right hand door is in locked position, so I can’t rotate shaft enough to release it from latch...no key...how do I remove this door latch so I can replace. I can get the door open from slop in old latch but would like to replace it so I can lock it.
this is the rear main the other two main bearings are not marked but they mic exactly the same thickness as the rear main. I think the mains marked A2 is std, G2 is 0.010 and U2 is 0.020 as best I can tell....boy this info is hard to come by
Looking to determine if 1937 21 stud engine crank is ground undersize. Looked in oil groove of main bearing and nothing but on the back of the shell it says....Ford (script) USA-T G2....do these numbers mean anything to anyone Thanks Ron
ive got about .035 endplay and should be, from what i can find .01 to .015. . I miced the flanges on the cap half of the bearing shell and have.069 and .064 on flywheel side.
so i think i need to make about .025 or .030 overall. With dimensions you gave me it should put me back to around to...