1933 model b oil pan drop

[FrankWest]

Frank: Where are you located.?? There may be a "barner" close by who might be willing to lend a hand.

Paul in CT

Pa, downingtown

I planned to check out and rebuild the breakes anyway before I operate the car.

 

[FrankWest]

The issue seams to be.... if i am reading correctly, you have a 4 cylinder in a 33 car? I do not know 33's. I did drop the pan on my 32 model B. It does hang up until you turn the wheel all the way to the left, which move the steering rods further out. It dropped on the floor when I moved the wheel.

You need people who know the 33. did it still come with a 4 banger?

Yes it came with a 4 banger all original

 

[jim1932]

I'm not an expert, but I would pull the non stock stuff, should drop out

 

[DavidG]

The four in a '33 is further back in the chassis relative to the V-8s location. As a result, you need to drop the back of the front axle wishbone to create enough room for the oil pan to clear the flywheel and then slid forward to "drop on the floor"

 

[FrankWest]

Frank you are working on things that could be potentially dangerous to yourself and others. If your mechanical knowledge is such that you do not know that those rods have nothing to do with steering and that Ford did not wire springs to things then you really should get some help from someone knowledge about these years of cars. This is not to criticize, everyone has to learn, but the parts of the car you are working on needs someone with this knowledge to help and oversee what is going on.

Thanks,, I'll try not to hurt myself.
I guess I should not even try to change the oil on this car until I learn where every nut and bolt goes. I know enough not to just start taking things apart.....That would be dangerious! Thanks for nothing!

 

[FrankWest]

The four in a '33 is further back in the chassis relative to the V-8s location. As a result, you need to drop the back of the front axle wishbone to create enough room for the oil pan to clear the flywheel and then slid forward to "drop on the floor"

Thanks for you help!

 

[JSeery]

Thanks,, I'll try not to hurt myself.
I guess I should not even try to change the oil on this car until I learn where every nut and bolt goes. I know enough not to just start taking things apart.....That would be dangerious! Thanks for nothing!

The intent was not to be critical Frank, there are lots of parts of the car that can be worked on with little concern. But when you attempt to work on the brake system parts or the main part of the front suspension without knowing a little bit about them I would proceed with a bit of caution. I'm sorry if that sounded harsh to you, that is not how it is meant. But the parts of the car you are working on can get you injured if you do not have a fair amounting of knowledge of what they are and what they do and what will move where when they are taken apart. An example would be the jack stands. Having the jack stands under the axle when the wishbone is disconnected could lead to disaster! You may be very knowledgeable working on a more modern car, but without a basic understand of the parts on your current car and how they work could get you hurt. Springs and other suspension parts contain a lot of energy and can be dangerous. Several people on the Barn have suggested it might be a good idea to seek help from someone who knows about these type of cars and I agree. If you still choose to go it alone, just be aware of the possibility of getting yourself injured if you do not understand the parts you are working with.

 

[FrankWest]

I had hoped to learn about each system of my car as I attempted to get it in orerating condition. Dropping the oil pan seemed straight forward as so many of ford barners said, without realizing my particular vehicle structure. I had planned to researh
My car is presently supported by 4 jack stands under each axil near the wheel, do I need additional support before releasing the Y bar? Should I place addition jack stand under the front frame?

 

[FrankWest]

I don't usually like to make comments or judgements like this, BUT...I have to agree with all the posts that expressed concern about your ability to do this work yourself and your personal safety while trying to do this work. Then to come back with sarcastic remarks and in one post saying you were talked in to removing this oil pan by other members here, tells me you are unappreciative of the time and help folks here are trying to give you.

Listen......Excuse me for trying to learn about my car!

I was not able to learn everything before I began what was supposed to be a simple task according to the forum.
You should state a caution on this message board that only
Experts need ask questions! Everyone else stay away!!!

 

[JSeery]

Listen......Excuse me for trying to learn about my car!

I was not able to learn everything before I began what was supposed to be a simple task according to the forum.
You should state a caution on this message board that only
Experts need ask questions! Everyone else stay away!!!

I would suggest a good start would be to call parts by a name that is commonly used. I have never heard the term Y bar. It is a radius rod and sometimes called the wishbone or bones for short. This has been pointed out several times and yet you refer to is as a Y bar. If you are wanting to learn, that would be a start. The jack stand question has be addressed on this thread several times. You can not take the radius rod loose without jack stands under the FRAME and at least some of the weight off of the front axle.

 

[FrankWest]

I don't usually like to make comments or judgements like this, BUT...I have to agree with all the posts that expressed concern about your ability to do this work yourself and your personal safety while trying to do this work. Then to come back with sarcastic remarks and in one post saying you were talked in to removing this oil pan by other members here tells me you are unappreciative of the time and help folks here are trying to give you.

You don;t like to make harsh comments, but you just had too, right!

 

[CC33]

The four in a '33 is further back in the chassis relative to the V-8s location. As a result, you need to drop the back of the front axle wishbone to create enough room for the oil pan to clear the flywheel and then slid forward to "drop on the floor"

Wow, that does sit tight to the firewall. Looks beautiful though, very nice detailing. Job well done!

 

[JSeery]

I think that it might be a good idea to close this thread as it appears to have turned hostile. It is to bad that some individuals do not seems to be interested in learning, but that appears to be the case.

 

[koates]

Hi Frank, Im just wondering if the pan really needs to be taken out. If the oil wont drain out and I presume oil is showing on the dip stick, then a piece of wire could be wiggled around in the pan drain hole to clear a path for it to drain. I would fill engine with some new oil and just get it started a see how she goes. You have a great original old ford so you could do just a bare minimum of repairs to just get it going at this stage to establish what is OK and what is not. Back in the day various aftermarket springs and kits were available and fitted to the four brake rods to stop them from rattling and making annoying noise. You could remove those springs and see what transpires. The underneath photo you posted is in a book and not of your car. The horizontal shaft shown which connects to the brake rod levers in that picture has the return spring wrapped around it for the brake rods. Just have a very close up look at that spring to check that it is not broken. If it is broken that could be another explanation why those two other springs were added to return the brake rods. When the brake pedal is depressed those four rods are PULLED to bring the brakes on, they are not Pushed. In the USA there were not very many four cylinder fords sold in 1933 & 1934. But other countries such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, England sold many more by comparison. Your car is moderately rare today but that was not always the case. A few 33-34 4 cylinder cars exist today here in Australia. Keep plodding along Frank and you will learn along the way and get it done. Take tour time. Regards, Kevin.

 

[FrankWest]

Hi Frank, Im just wondering if the pan really needs to be taken out. If the oil wont drain out and I presume oil is showing on the dip stick, then a piece of wire could be wiggled around in the pan drain hole to clear a path for it to drain. I would fill engine with some new oil and just get it started a see how she goes. You have a great original old ford so you could do just a bare minimum of repairs to just get it going at this stage to establish what is OK and what is not. Back in the day various aftermarket springs and kits were available and fitted to the four brake rods to stop them from rattling and making annoying noise. You could remove those springs and see what transpires. The underneath photo you posted is in a book and not of your car. The horizontal shaft shown which connects to the brake rod levers in that picture has the return spring wrapped around it for the brake rods. Just have a very close up look at that spring to check that it is not broken. If it is broken that could be another explanation why those two other springs were added to return the brake rods. When the brake pedal is depressed those four rods are PULLED to bring the brakes on, they are not Pushed. In the USA there were not very many four cylinder fords sold in 1933 & 1934. But other countries such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, England sold many more by comparison. Your car is moderately rare today but that was not always the case. A few 33-34 4 cylinder cars exist today here in Australia. Keep plodding along Frank and you will learn along the way and get it done. Take tour time. Regards, Kevin.

Thanks, great advice!
I am new to this so I didn't want to start taking thinks apart.
I have dropped the pan as far as it can go and were able to feel inside the pan and see that it is clean there. Under the pan bottom section is where there is some sludge. I will try to dissolve that kerosine and commerical degressers. Usually on this forum you get excellent advice, Unfortunately, there are some big mouths on here that expect everyone to be a seasoned mechanic, so I hope I don;t get in trouble for using a dergresser from my separtated oil pan... I will flush it out well with kerosine and Naptha after it is cleaned.

 

[1931 flamingo]

Frank: If the B pan is anything like an A pan, there's a windage tray (?) above the bottom of the pan. The A holds 1/2 to 1 qt of oil that doesn't get drained when the plug is removed. Depending on how you add the kerosene or whatever you plan to use some may get into this tray and remain there and when you add new oil it 's possible it will be thinned down. Not good.
Disconnect the "wishbone" (what you've been calling a Y), force it down and remove the pan and do it right. If not you're going to have fun trying to install new gaskets and probably end up with a leak. JMO FWIW

Paul in CT

 

[FrankWest]

The four in a '33 is further back in the chassis relative to the V-8s location. As a result, you need to drop the back of the front axle wishbone to create enough room for the oil pan to clear the flywheel and then slid forward to "drop on the floor"

When dropping the "wishbone" Where should I place my front jack stands?
I don;t want the car to fall.
I notice the cap to the wishbone has two nuts on each side that are secured with cotter pins.

 

[FrankWest]

Frank: If the B pan is anything like an A pan, there's a windage tray (?) above the bottom of the pan. The A holds 1/2 to 1 qt of oil that doesn't get drained when the plug is removed. Depending on how you add the kerosene or whatever you plan to use some may get into this tray and remain there and when you add new oil it 's possible it will be thinned down. Not good.
Disconnect the "wishbone" (what you've been calling a Y), force it down and remove the pan and do it right. If not you're going to have fun trying to install new gaskets and probably end up with a leak. JMO FWIW

Paul in CT

Here are photos of the model B oil pan.

 

[FrankWest]

Hi Frank, Im just wondering if the pan really needs to be taken out. If the oil wont drain out and I presume oil is showing on the dip stick, then a piece of wire could be wiggled around in the pan drain hole to clear a path for it to drain. I would fill engine with some new oil and just get it started a see how she goes. You have a great original old ford so you could do just a bare minimum of repairs to just get it going at this stage to establish what is OK and what is not. Back in the day various aftermarket springs and kits were available and fitted to the four brake rods to stop them from rattling and making annoying noise. You could remove those springs and see what transpires. The underneath photo you posted is in a book and not of your car. The horizontal shaft shown which connects to the brake rod levers in that picture has the return spring wrapped around it for the brake rods. Just have a very close up look at that spring to check that it is not broken. If it is broken that could be another explanation why those two other springs were added to return the brake rods. When the brake pedal is depressed those four rods are PULLED to bring the brakes on, they are not Pushed. In the USA there were not very many four cylinder fords sold in 1933 & 1934. But other countries such as Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, South America, England sold many more by comparison. Your car is moderately rare today but that was not always the case. A few 33-34 4 cylinder cars exist today here in Australia. Keep plodding along Frank and you will learn along the way and get it done. Take tour time. Regards, Kevin.

Thanks for your help and kind words.
All I wanted to do was to make sure the oil would flow through my engine and oil pump. I did not want to start taking the car apart. I plan to learn about each system and the consider what needs to be done, if anything.
Personally some of the comments on this board have gotten me scared about loosing the wishbone. I done want the car to fall on me.
If i had to dismantle something to make clearance for the pan I would rather take of one end of the front end tie rod, at least here nothing will come crashing down on me. I purchased the book Ford V8 1932 to 1936 Engine & Chassis Repair Manual perhaps that will help.

 

[Brendan]

Thanks for your help and kind words.
All I wanted to do was to make sure the oil would flow through my engine and oil pump. I did not want to start taking the car apart. I plan to learn about each system and the consider what needs to be done, if anything.
Personally some of the comments on this board have gotten me scared about loosing the wishbone. I done want the car to fall on me.
If i had to dismantle something to make clearance for the pan I would rather take of one end of the front end tie rod, at least here nothing will come crashing down on me. I purchased the book Ford V8 1932 to 1936 Engine & Chassis Repair Manual perhaps that will help.

I got the same book but for a36 but after I took the oil pan off my 36 pickup. fallow the directions in the book, it says don't skip steps and do them in order. it took me 3.5 hr to get the pan off and 2,5 to put it back on. I don't think it is good to use a solvent in side the motor, just my opinion. it will loosen up junk. also the sludge in side my oil pan was 1/2 in thick. nothing but a good scrub down with solvent would have cleaned it out. after you get put back together one of the best thing is to change the oil very frequently good luck...Brendan