1933 model b oil pan drop

I agree with John and Mart. If your sketches are even remotely accurate, those springs appear to be attached to the arms on the brake cross shaft to assist returning the front and rear brake rods to their "at rest" position so that the brake shoes don't drag on the drums. Perhaps the springs assist the original spring on the brake cross shaft itself or perhaps the original spring is broken and those two jury-rigged springs are a substitute.

The brake cross shaft (which is bolted to the back side of the center section of the center cross member), its arms, and the rods attached to it have nothing whatsoever to do with the car's steering. You may remove them and drop the front brake rods and the front axle wishbone attached to the bottom of the center of the center cross member without any effect on the car's steering.

Judging from your past posts, with all respect I agree with Mart that some homework on your part may be in order. At a minimum, the reprints of the 1933-'34 body parts catalogue and the 1928-34 chassis parts catalogue are inexpensive and contain a wealth of information, including illustrations of all of the parts under discussion in this thread. The service bulletin reprints are also useful as indicated elsewhere here, but the parts catalogues will give you a much better picture of what the car is made of in terms of detailing the various components and illustrating how they go together. Similarly, if your car has something that was added such as the springs in your sketches, you'll know from the catalogue illustrations in most instances that they weren't there when the car was built by Ford.
 
sketch looks like the brake rods are confusing things and may have some antirattle springs on them. Take the end of the wishbone loose, there will be two bolts holding a cap over a ball covered with a rubber boot. It is as simpleas that. you will have to have some support under the cars frame on both sides in order to push the wishbone done when it is taken loose at the rear.
 
Mart said:
Ok, I THINK some previous owner has attached some springs to that area to help the brakes release. I THINK the rods that Frank says go to the steering are the brake rods.

Frank, get someone to operate the brake pedal and watch to see if the part the springs are attached to are moving.

I THINK you can detach the springs, lower the wishbone and remove the pan.

I have reservations, though, Frank, about your skill level (hope I'm wrong), no disrespect, but what are you hoping to achieve when you get the pan off?

We will try and help all we can.

Mart.
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I just wanted to clean it out. The oil would not drain and the car was in storage for 20 years.
 
FrankWest said:
My wishbone has springs tied around one edge with wire and the other side of the each of two springs linked to a rod for each wheel.... to give the sterring a firmness,, to hold its position i assume???
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Frank you are working on things that could be potentially dangerous to yourself and others. If your mechanical knowledge is such that you do not know that those rods have nothing to do with steering and that Ford did not wire springs to things then you really should get some help from someone knowledge about these years of cars. This is not to criticize, everyone has to learn, but the parts of the car you are working on needs someone with this knowledge to help and oversee what is going on.
 
I was surprised when I dropped the pan that it would have restrictions.
I assumed it was like dropping the pan on a model A engine.
The problem was that I have a model A "B" engine in a 1933 ford so that it is a hybrid that most people on this forum seem to have little experience with like me.
I appreciate you help but I guess we are both confused.
Let me ask you this . Can the pan be directly be removed on the 1933 ford v8 or do you have to drop the wishbone steering support?
 
The wishbone also has to be dropped on a V8 to remove the oil pan.You might also have to disconnect the brake rods (if you have mechanical brakes)or remove the brake rod guide that is on the wishbone .
 
Yep, these years of cars are a whole different world than the modern cars! Sounds like you have brake rods that may or may not be in uses. As others have said it also sounds like someone has attached springs to the rods for who knows what reason. They may be to stop a rattle or to help retract the brake shoes or to hold the rods up if there not connected. One of the first things I would do is determine the type of brakes you have (mechanical or hydraulic). If they are mechanical and working, then the rods you are seeing are most likely the brake rods and the springs really shouldn't be there. Maybe the springs on the crossover shafts are broken and these springs are to make-up for it?
 
jimTN said:
sketch looks like the brake rods are confusing things and may have some antirattle springs on them. Take the end of the wishbone loose, there will be two bolts holding a cap over a ball covered with a rubber boot. It is as simpleas that. you will have to have some support under the cars frame on both sides in order to push the wishbone done when it is taken loose at the rear.
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Presently the car is supported by 4 jack stands under each axil near each wheel. I should place two additional stands under the frame near the Y?
otherwise will the release of the Y at the will cause instability?

I have to purchase a set of bullitins. I have the owners manuals, restoration manual but need details.
 
JSeery said:
Frank you are working on things that could be potentially dangerous to yourself and others. If your mechanical knowledge is such that you do not know that those rods have nothing to do with steering and that Ford did not wire springs to things then you really should get some help from someone knowledge about these years of cars. This is not to criticize, everyone has to learn, but the parts of the car you are working on needs someone with this knowledge to help and oversee what is going on.
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I originally did not even want to drop the pan. But people on this forum kept saying you have to drop the pan... it is so easy even a novice could do it in a church parking lot!!!!!!!!
Now i am getting in deeper and deeper and you are saying too dangerious.
That is why I didn;t want to start taking things apart...because any jerk can take thing apart... but putting them back together right is the key!!!!
 
Frank, take the stands from under the front axle and put then under the frame.

Mart.
 
The extra springs I have are sketched in in yellow

There are 2 nuts with cotter pins, do these release the cap and then I can unscrew the Y
 

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FrankWest said:
I just wanted to clean it out. The oil would not drain and the car was in storage for 20 years.
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It is not much more work to take out the engine then you can clean out the build up easy from everywhere do not forget inside the side cover and all the galleries
 
FrankWest said:
I originally did not even want to drop the pan. But people on this forum kept saying you have to drop the pan... it is so easy even a novice could do it in a church parking lot!!!!!!!!
Now i am getting in deeper and deeper and you are saying too dangerious.
That is why I didn;t want to start taking things apart...because any jerk can take thing apart... but putting them back together right is the key!!!!
Click to expand...

That's funny and true at the same time Frank. It might be true for some people, but for most of us I think this is a moderately difficult job if you haven't worked on them before. It would be nice to see the inside of the engine and oil pan, but think I would try to run some type of solvent through the engine and drain through the oil pan first (like kerosene). But, the truth is I know almost nothing about this engine and possible issues with setting. You might consider a PM to someone like Walt or one of the other experienced engine builders on here and see if they have any inputs.
 
FrankWest said:
The extra springs I have are sketched in in yellow

There are 2 nuts with cotter pins, do these release the cap and then I can unscrew the Y
Click to expand...

Yes.

And those are the brake rods and the piece in the center is also part of the brakes. Someone would have added the springs, they would not be original.

When you undo the cap the radius rods (wishbone) can move down with some degree of force and the wheels and axle can move forward. As stated above, place the front jack stands under the frame to remove some of the weight off of the front axle.
 
JSeery said:
Yep, these years of cars are a whole different world than the modern cars! Sounds like you have brake rods that may or may not be in uses. As others have said it also sounds like someone has attached springs to the rods for who knows what reason. They may be to stop a rattle or to help retract the brake shoes or to hold the rods up if there not connected. One of the first things I would do is determine the type of brakes you have (mechanical or hydraulic). If they are mechanical and working, then the rods you are seeing are most likely the brake rods and the springs really shouldn't be there. Maybe the springs on the crossover shafts are broken and these springs are to make-up for it?
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Mechanical brakes
 
FrankWest said:
The extra springs I have are sketched in in yellow

There are 2 nuts with cotter pins, do these release the cap and then I can unscrew the Y
Click to expand...


Looks like what appears is the main spring that is on the brake cross shaft is broken.That might have been the reason for the springs that were added.You have more work cut out for you.The cross shaft should be removed and spring replaced.When the cross shaft is out check and see if the bushings and shaft are worn.If so they need to be replaced.Yes the wishbone cap is held on by the 2 bolts.Replace the rubber ball before reinstalling.In retrospect since you must disconnect the wishbone why not remove the front spring/axle assy and rebuild or replace the bushings-check the kingpins etc.
 
JSeery said:
That's funny and true at the same time Frank. It might be true for some people, but for most of us I think this is a moderately difficult job if you haven't worked on them before. It would be nice to see the inside of the engine and oil pan, but think I would try to run some type of solvent through the engine and drain through the oil pan first (like kerosene). But, the truth is I know almost nothing about this engine and possible issues with setting. You might consider a PM to someone like Walt or one of the other experienced engine builders on here and see if they have any inputs.
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True, I could fill the pan with solvent to dissolve the sediment
 
The issue seams to be.... if i am reading correctly, you have a 4 cylinder in a 33 car? I do not know 33's. I did drop the pan on my 32 model B. It does hang up until you turn the wheel all the way to the left, which move the steering rods further out. It dropped on the floor when I moved the wheel.

You need people who know the 33. did it still come with a 4 banger?
 
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