Break-in gone wrong!

I threaded the holes and used pipe plugs on the one I just did. don't like those original style oil plugs
 
Ken/Alabama said:
I’m wondering if it blew a plug out of one of the rod throws on the crankshaft. Keep us posted.
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That is a real possibility! That happened to me on my very first stroker flathead (when I was 15).

Luckily, I saw the oil pressure drop and shut it down. Pulled the pan and there was one of those dang soft plugs in the pan. Knocked a new one in (made sure the 'peen' around the edges a bit more than the shop did) and Bob was your Uncle. I did NOT have any bearing issues . . . but I also didn't run it long enough for the engine to start seizing up.

Actually, I hope this is the issue! LOL
 
J Franklin said:
If that is the case I doubt anything has been damaged by 0 oil pressure as oil was still circulating.
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I doubt oil was circulating, because I removed the gauge from the back of the block and no oil came out when I cranked. But maybe I don't understand oil flow in these things.

I don't have time right now to look into this thing, but I will, sooner than later. And I promise I will post the outcome in this thread. I strongly dislike finding a thread similar to mine only to find out the op never posted results or outcome.
 
Cameron Koehn said:
I doubt oil was circulating, because I removed the gauge from the back of the block and no oil came out when I cranked. But maybe I don't understand oil flow in these things.
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If there was no oil circulating I would look to the pump being defective as it should pump more oil than would be expelled through a missing plug.
 
If you had absolutely no oil coming out of the 1/4" NPT port at the back of the block, then the issue has to be with the pump and/or the pump drive gears. I would surely check out all the bearings - they may be toast if you ran it this way for multiple minutes.
 
If it’s a reproduction Oil pick up tube / screen. Check the base that attaches to pump. When they weld the tube to base, the base can become warped. Therefore not a good gasket mating surface.
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Pulled the pan. Then the pump. Disassembled the oil pump and everything was fine there, which is bad news for me. I was hoping a new pump and we'd be going again. My engine hoist is borrowed out but I need to remove clutch and flywheel and the rear cover and go from there. I had plenty of oil in it and the crank and cam still look nice from the outside, although I have not pulled the caps yet. My biggest fear is cam gear failed and the engine will have to get completely disassembled...
 
Closely watching this thread. I feel for you. The original pickup tube on my C59A had been damaged at one point, but had been brazed back together, and I didn’t really like the repair. Luckily, I had a spare that I picked up somewhere along the line and used it instead, otherwise I would have likely purchased a reproduction.
 
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Got in to the oil pump drive gear. It all looks fine....... The gear definitely doesn't just SPIN on the cam.? Gear mesh is good. Any ideas? Thanks a lot for ya'lls help!
 
I am finding no problems whatsoever. Is it possible the oil pump had lost prime? What about bypass spring malfunction? The pickup screen was not blocked. The crank has all the gallery plugs still installed. Oil pump drive gear lash is fine. What am I missing?
 
Pardon me for what might be a dumb comment.

I'm putting a 59A together at the moment - my first engine and not yet ready to run. I fitted 'new' Mellings oil pump that was a different configuration to stock. The pick up that accompanied the Mellings protruded down so much the sump wouldn't fit. It was not fouling with baffles, the sump would not close. I had a gap of approx 1/2". Admittedly the sump was a little stoved in - now fixed.

I compared the pickup tube I had to another and found it was about 3/4" 'deeper' than the other one.

Is it possible that your pick up is hard on the 'floor' of the sump and your oil pump is being starved for suction?
 
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