y-block fuel pump blockoff

Brian54

Member
I have been thinking of converting my mechanical fuel pump to electric on my 1954 Ford with a 239 . What blockoff plates are available ?
 
Not wanting to hijack the thread, but do they have those for FE's, too? I know "google is my friend" but so are many of you guys. :)
 
Okay, I found one, I think.
I suspect those plates were the same at least into the 70's, on nearly all the Ford V8 engines.
Had a '78 van with a 300 straight six and it may have been the same, but it worked and I never looked.
 
I know you said you found one, but as an information piece the YBlocks and FE's had the same mounting configuration.


Not wanting to hijack the thread, but do they have those for FE's, too? I know "google is my friend" but so are many of you guys. :)
 
Thanks dmsfrr and Paul2748. I put a new mechanical pump in my T-Bird recently, and one in my old Mercury about a dozen years ago, so I'm probably ok, but I've decided if I ever need to replace either again I'll go electric.
 
In my experience, the electrics are more unreliable than the mechanical pumps. I know the Airtex pumps are junk, some have good experience with Carter even thought they are made in China. Best bet is to get an old one made in USA, Canada or Mexico and have them rebuilt.



Thanks dmsfrr and Paul2748. I put a new mechanical pump in my T-Bird recently, and one in my old Mercury about a dozen years ago, so I'm probably ok, but I've decided if I ever need to replace either again I'll go electric.
 
Paul, I wish I could find someone who could rebuild old electric "pulse" type fuel pumps. I have several old 6 volt A/C Delco EP-11 fuel pumps I would like to have rebuilt. I did manage to find bellows kits, and installed them, but none of them shut off when the preset pressure is reached and the pump starts spewing fuel everywhere from all of its gaskets. despite my best efforts, I have not been able to figure out the problem with them, or how to fix them. I used to be able to turn the pump on before starting the vehicle, let the pump fill the carb and it would automatically shut off when the needle and seat closed. I could either leave the pump on and it would kick on and off as needed, or I could just use it to prime the carb after sitting through winter storage. I sure do miss the A/C delco EP-11 pump. It is no longer being made
 
Paul, thanks for the tip, I will give them a call, their web site says mechanical fuel pumps and water pumps, but who knows, if he does not do electric pumps, maybe he knows who does. Thank you for the lead.
 
I'm sorry I'm not more acquainted with electric pumps, but I've never installed one on an old car. Anyway, here's my probably dumb question: Are most aftermarket electric fuel pumps now designed to stop running when the engine stops (as in an accident)? That was an unappealing feature of aftermarket electric pumps at one time...they kept running after a collision. I know they fixed that on new cars, as the pump needs to be reset after a fender bender, but I wasn't sure if aftermarket pumps were also like that now.
 
The cars today have what I'll cal a "Rollover or inertia switch" which cuts power to the pump in case of an accident. Could be wrong, but I don't think its on the pump itself.





I'm sorry I'm not more acquainted with electric pumps, but I've never installed one on an old car. Anyway, here's my probably dumb question: Are most aftermarket electric fuel pumps now designed to stop running when the engine stops (as in an accident)? That was an unappealing feature of aftermarket electric pumps at one time...they kept running after a collision. I know they fixed that on new cars, as the pump needs to be reset after a fender bender, but I wasn't sure if aftermarket pumps were also like that now.
 
The "auto shut-off sw." as far as I know are not in the pumps. some of the older Lincolns and Ford products ( '90's ) had the inertia switches located in the trunk area, behind a trim panel. some were located in other area's. these caused some problems early on, as they sometimes shut off the fuel with just a slam of the trunk lid, or any other jolt. I reset a lot of them. a lot of people who use electric pumps as the only pump, wire in a switch that will shut off the fuel pump when there is a loss of oil pressure.
 
Are most aftermarket electric fuel pumps now designed to stop running when the engine stops (as in an accident)? That was an unappealing feature of aftermarket electric pumps at one time...they kept running after a collision.

I know they fixed that on new cars, as the pump needs to be reset after a fender bender, but I wasn't sure if aftermarket pumps were also like that now.

An ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP is designed to move fuel. You have to install safety features to avoid becoming a CRISPY CRITTER.

Read the TECH ARTICLE - http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html - and then the discussion can begin.

The article doesn't mention an INERTIA SWITCH, but it has to be wired in also.
 
As a bit of theft prevention I added a switch under the dash that wasn't visible easily to shut off the pump when I parked the car. The car would start and could be driven about 1-2 blocks before the fuel bowel went dry and the engine would stop and since it had started and run "it just died" and they would give up and leave it.
 
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