woodgrained window-moulding screws?

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thank you much, petehoovie!
 
Graham got it right. No need for washers. This is a 1940 coupe.
 

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I used them on all of the real wood trim on our 32.
 

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Thank you!

I have made certain the fellow that does my graining does not apply the topcoats beneath the screw heads. Also, I utilize a very small nylon washer beneath each screw and do not overtighten as has been well advised in a previous post.
 
As a temporary remedy I visited a local ACE hardware & opted for # 6 clear nylon flat washers as the s.s were in limited supply, they fit fine & I first screwed them into an unfinished moulding to shape the counter sink correctly, didn't mind the bit of clear washer edge showing as it's far from a high point car by any means, still on to this day.
 
Robert,


In V8 Club judging of your '32, you will lose a point for every ten of those washers.
 
Robert,


In V8 Club judging of your '32, you will lose a point for every ten of those washers.

Thank you David
Given the other and much bigger issue, i think the dreams of the ship you speak of has long since sailed!!! couple that with a recent tragedy outside the scope of V8 Fords and i highly doubt it will ever get shown. But your wise and sage advice is noted!!
 
Robert,


In V8 Club judging of your '32, you will lose a point for every ten of those washers.

Dave, Have you ever had any graining crack? I realize you don't tighten the screws down but still...
In the very distant past, as careful as I thought I was being, I'd cracked some grain. I wanted to cry. I may have :(
After that I'd insisted the area just barely surrounding each hole be only the primer.
That, with tiny nylon washers has seemed to work for me.
The washers can't be seen once installed.
 
The highest risk of chipping isn't with wood-grained moldings coated in clear coat, but rather with moldings painted in lacquer as original such as those used in earlier standard closed body types. Extra care is required in how far one goes and even when pushing down on the molding to relieve the pressure of the screw on the molding, you can never reverse course and go back even a tenth of a turn without chipping the paint. (Which for those of us who like to line up the slots in the heads is sometimes a temptation.:))

In other words, not a job to be done if you are in a hurry.


P.S. The extensive use of countersunk washers with the screws on the birch side panels for attaching the maple trim strips on station wagons has zero to do with minimizing chips in the varnish.
 
The highest risk of chipping isn't with wood-grained moldings coated in clear coat, but rather with moldings painted in lacquer as original such as those used in earlier standard closed body types. Extra care is required in how far one goes and even when pushing down on the molding to relieve the pressure of the screw on the molding, you can never reverse course and go back even a tenth of a turn without chipping the paint. (Which for those of us who like to line up the slots in the heads is sometimes a temptation.:))

In other words, not a job to be done if you are in a hurry.


P.S. The extensive use of countersunk washers with the screws on the birch side panels for attaching the maple trim strips on station wagons has zero to do with minimizing chips in the varnish.

I must admit, the times when I did chip the coating, it was when I was going for that factory "all the screws line up" appearance :)
 
Try as we may, sometimes the fasteners and the pre-existing holes in the underlying wood or sheet metal just won't cooperate with that mad hatter objective.:D
 
In the grand scheme of things, I really wonder how many of those new Fords rolled of the production line with chips here & there, not suited for any form of show judging but original as produced shall we say.
 
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