woodgrained window-moulding screws?

highbeams

highbeams

Well-known member
woodgrained window-moulding screws.

Tightening . . . screwing the screws will damage the woodgrain; i.e., upon screw contact, curling the grain with every turn, peeling it off around the screw hole.
Possibly a leather washer minus the diameter of the screwhead? Thank you.
 
They won't chip if you don't overtighten them; the moldings are not at risk of falling off.
 
For many years my upholstery guy has used some cupped washers that match the taper of the screw to prevent paint damage.
 
Bevel washers, also used by Ford under screws on woodies.
Try RockFla on this site
 
Yes flush washers not countersunk. McMaster Carr and Amazon have them in #6&8. Anything else is a bit more difficult. Most are SS some nickel.

Edit….Amazon show 6,8,10
McMaster no longer shows them
 
DavidG said:
They won't chip if you don't overtighten them; the moldings are not at risk of falling off.
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Okay, Thanks. The car has good graining, but is covered with a now-crinkled old clearcoat. Too-tight screws damaged the screw holes.

So gotta do it.
 
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highbeams said:
Okay, Thanks. The car has good graining, but is covered with a now-crinkled old clearcoat. Too-tight screws damaged the screw holes.
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So I'll have to send to an excellent grainer I know through his photo(s) & communication. Burled walnut is what I am after. Thank you.
 
Those cupped washers work well but were not used originally. As David stated
it is not necessary to cinch those screws. I roll the screw in wax first. Does not gall,
easy clean up and threads in much easier. Also those cupped washers just don't
look right.
 
They are a “Flush” finish washer and NOT a “finished Cup” washer, ai have a few hundred of #6, #8 & #10 in my screw screw bolt nut and washer bins. i got mine through MSC but i’m sure McMaster Carr has them too AS my normal screw supplier doesn’t carry them or I’d buy a few 1000 of each and have them for all you guys. I was buying a few things at MSC other than these so that’s why I got mine there!!! Airplane interior guys use them a lot too!!!!! A company named Aveco makes them as well IF you can find an automotive “specialty” fastener supplier that carrie’s AVECO products.
 

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Wish I could post pictures I've got the cupped washers on the 3 closed cars I currently have and you can't even see them unless your looking for them. They're the same size as the screw head.
 
Yep, I use them too and they are hard to detect if you use the correct size for the screw that you use.
 
rockfla said:
They are a “Flush” finish washer and NOT a “finished Cup” washer, ai have a few hundred of #6, #8 & #10 in my screw screw bolt nut and washer bins. i got mine through MSC but i’m sure McMaster Carr has them too AS my normal screw supplier doesn’t carry them or I’d buy a few 1000 of each and have them for all you guys. I was buying a few things at MSC other than these so that’s why I got mine there!!! Airplane interior guys use them a lot too!!!!! A company named Aveco makes them as well IF you can find an automotive “specialty” fastener supplier that carrie’s AVECO products.
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I used to do woodgraining a long time ago. When prepping the parts, right before the base color I would take a counter sink bit in my fingers and take most of the primer out of the depressions where the screws would go. Excess primer can build in these depressions and make those area more prone to chipping. It is especially important when using moldings that had rust pits that needed high build primer. I also always took a piece of paraffin wax and rubbed some on the tapered part of the finish screw that contacts the part, and never had a chipping problem with any job that i did. An old timer who mentored me told me about this and it really does help. Never needed any washers. And as David said, don't over tighten the screws.
 
I have always found that pushing/pulling down on the area where the screw goes in thru the moulding while tightening the screw reduces any damage.
 
deuce_roadster said:
i used to do woodgraining a long time ago. When prepping the parts, right before the base color i would take a counter sink bit in my fingers and take most of the primer out of the depressions where the screws would go. Excess primer can build in these depressions and make those area more prone to chipping. It is especially important when using moldings that had rust pits that needed high build primer. I also always took a piece of paraffin wax and rubbed some on the tapered part of the finish screw that contacts the part, and never had a chipping problem with any job that i did. An old timer who mentored me told me about this and it really does help. Never needed any washers. And as david said, don't over tighten the screws.
Click to expand...
thank you much, sheldon!
 
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