Wood Graining by Hydrographics

E

Ed in Maine

Well-known member
Has anyone restored your interior trim with a wood graining pattern using the Hydrographics Film technique? A typical company name for the materials is Hydrographic Concepts Inc. See them on U-Tube. There are other companies that offer the materials. It is very interesting method of coating parts with a wood grain or other patterns but I am finding it difficult to get a result that is good enough for show quality. It is very tricky process to use but it has the potential to provide a very accurate wood grain panel on a dash and window trim parts at a very reasonable price.

Please comment on your experience with this method and what suppliers you have used. Thank you, Ed
 
I thought you said hydrophonics and was picturing parts hanging with carrots and lettuce and such! (getting misted)


lol
 
If I understand the process correctly, the part is lifted up through a bath of water where a film rests on the surface. The film has the print of the wood grain. I forget how the print is made.

Here are samples of some of the patterns available: https://hydrographicsinc.com/patterns/
 
Last edited:
What was the original style and color of wood grain on the Model A's? was it all the same color and style?
 
https://woodgraining.com/faux-finishing-tools/

Grain-it claims to use the original process as used by Ford and other manufacturers. They have materials to match many grain patterns and colors. The web link above is theirs for a Model A kit. You might just browse the site to learn more about it.

I used their process and was pleased with the results, but it was not for the original Model A patters/colors. I spent a lot of practice time learning how to do it satisfactorily.
 
What I got from some searching is a stipple mahogany. The above video shows the color.

I could not find a DIY kit for the hydrographics film technique but I believe they are out there.
 
Russ B said:
https://woodgraining.com/faux-finishing-tools/

Grain-it claims to use the original process as used by Ford and other manufacturers. They have materials to match many grain patterns and colors. The web link above is theirs for a Model A kit. You might just browse the site to learn more about it.

I used their process and was pleased with the results, but it was not for the original Model A patters/colors. I spent a lot of practice time learning how to do it satisfactorily.
Click to expand...
Great video Thanks!!
 
I did it about six years ago. It was a lot cheaper than the traditional woodgraining. I was a little skeptical about the process. I have a cabriolet and I have the roof down quite a bit, I thought the exposure to the sun may fade. I am very pleased with the outcome and would highly recommend it. I used what was called Gun stock Walnut, I get compliments quite a bit.
Bill DeVore
 
Hello Devoreb, the wood graining on your cabriolet looks great. Do you remember the code no. for this film selection? Thank you, Ed
 
Ed in Maine,
I used Light Black Gunstock . The number is WTP261. It fools a lot of people, they think it is factory product.
 
I believe the Grain-it process is focused on patterns and colors used by automakers in n the first half of the twentieth century. The hydrographic companies are more generally focused on providing a wide variety of patterns, but not necessarily matching any used by auto manufacturers. Sothe Grain-it process is probably best for authentic restorations, and hydrographic processes are great for drivers, costing much less.

I chose Grain-it for the fun of learning and doing it myself. I spent about six months practiceing and learning, and about a thousand on plates, rollers and materials.

2v2U11zoMxHuj7.jpg

This was just a practice piece. The upper edge is the model A stipple mohagany, i believe, and the recessed area, maybe a butt walnut
 
Grain It used to display at Hershey, not sure if they do anymore. There work is incredible. I have not tried a kit.
 
We have used the Grain-It process for probably 15+ years now, and it does a great job. I am sure the hydrographics will do a good job too on simple items but not sure how well it will work on items like Fordor Trim that has multiple and opposing sides to 'print'.

Something to think about though and understand where the graining costs come from. The 'printing' of the pattern is really the least of the process based on my experiences. Rarely do we ever have Window Trim that is ready to go straight to the printing. The expense of these is prepping for the printing. Most Trim needs to be mediablasted, straightened, (-sometimes welded & metalfinished), bodyworked, sanded, and based before the printing happens. It may be the hydrographics does not require a base be painted? Then after the printing, the ink must be encapsulated with Clear. Again, maybe the hydrographic ink does not? The spraying of the Clear involves spraying, colorsanding and respraying the Clear for the 2nd application followed by colorsanding & polishing.

So also adding to the costs of a Woodgrain job is what kind of primer is used and what type of Clear paint is used. If I use a cheap Krylon rattle-can primer, it will last awhile but the longevity won't be as good as a catalyzed primer. The same mindset applies to the Clearcoat. Are we using Deft or Krylon clear over the printing, -or are we using a 2k Clear? Are we colorsanding the clear and hand buffing it, or is the finish textured straight out of the aerosol can? The one other thing that I don't think you can achieve with hydrographics is the character in the print. This is the grain 'imperfections' that creates the details that make the piece look real. Look at Russ' picture above and you will see in the center where there is the appearance of a joint in the exact center of the panel. Also notice how it looks like the Walnut was glued to the the Mahogany, and then the piece was carved out. If the hydro process can be that exacting, then my hats off to those craftsmen but that would be extremely difficult IMO.
 
Maybe this was covered someplace else but how well does the Hydrographics hold up to being on window frames? I mean the UV light and arms hanging out the window.

And a quick question about Grain-it, how does one get into the corners of the window frames? I am trying to remember what I saw and will go back and watch their video again-and probably answer my own question.

Mike
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top