Window regulator problem

A

aman538

Member
I took the drivers window out of my 29 Murry 4 door to replace it. I took the entire mech out and removed the regulator to clean and lube it. After replacing the regulator I noted the window would not fully roll down. The regulator was rolled all the way to the end, but the window was sticking up approx 1to 1 1/2 inches above the door. Will roll all the way to the top. I ckd the arm on the pass side and rolled down it is 50 Degrees. The arm on the drivers door is 30 degrees rolled down. As far as I know nothing was changed. I've been banging my head against the wall for a week trying to figuer this out. HELP
 
aman538 said:
I took the drivers window out of my 29 Murry 4 door to replace it. I took the entire mech out and removed the regulator to clean and lube it. After replacing the regulator I noted the window would not fully roll down. The regulator was rolled all the way to the end, but the window was sticking up approx 1to 1 1/2 inches above the door. Will roll all the way to the top. I ckd the arm on the pass side and rolled down it is 50 Degrees. The arm on the drivers door is 30 degrees rolled down. As far as I know nothing was changed. I've been banging my head against the wall for a week trying to figuer this out. HELP
Click to expand...

Any chance you screwed it into the wrong holes? There is a little "upset" on the plate that acts as a 'stop'. Is it hitting that? Without the glass channel attached, will it make full travel??
 
I had one that did the same thing.The new glass was 90 degrees on the two bottom corners & would catch on a bad spot on the felt channel.I beveled the two corners a bit & it was OK.If you are careful you can bevel the corners on a bench grinder with a fine stone & the tool rest set as close as possible to the stone.Make sure the glass is resting squarely on the tool rest or you will crack the glass!This works for laminated safety glass.
 
I needed some glass trimmed a bit and the guy at Harmon Glass used a belt sander. I'd feel much safer with a belt sander, but I did use the grinder once years ago as columbiA mentioned.
 
columbiA said:
I had one that did the same thing.The new glass was 90 degrees on the two bottom corners & would catch on a bad spot on the felt channel.I beveled the two corners a bit & it was OK.If you are careful you can bevel the corners on a bench grinder with a fine stone & the tool rest set as close as possible to the stone.Make sure the glass is resting squarely on the tool rest or you will crack the glass!This works for laminated safety glass.
Click to expand...

You were very, very lucky the glass didn't crack with a hard grinding stone.
I wouldn't ever suggest it.
The safest way is emery cloth or a belt sander. If the glass gets hot, it will crack. Go slow with a belt or use a coolant.
Hand sanding with emery and a rubber backup pad will safely round off a glass corner in a few minutes.
 
Hi Craig! In the heavy duty shop I worked in,I changed many WS,s side windows etc on loaders,lift trucks etc & quite a few times the glass wouldnt fit due to distorted cab etc & I would grind them to fit and never broke one once I figured out the tecknique.I never removed more than 1/16"at a time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top