Where to start ??

Jim M

Senior Member
I have just completed a brake job on my 29 Roadster. Everything has been replaced, turned down all drums, sent shoes out for new linings, even sent cross shaft to Bratton's for rebuild (they did great job!). Now I'm in the trial and error phase of adjustment. Luckily I have a long gravel road to lock the brakes up on and check the skid marks. Not quite there yet but getting better.

The problem I now have is when I take it on the road, get up to about 30 MPH and put the brakes on I get a wicked shake. The shift lever and emergency brake handle wave back and forth and the whole car shakes. I have no idea where to start looking or what to look at first. Because the transmission is shaking I am thinking it might be the radius rod ball. I have not taken it apart and if I do I'm not sure what to look for, etc. I have searched old posts and Les Andrews books but have not found anything like this.

Where do I go from here. Any ideas or suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated. Yesterday was our 51st anniversary and I wanted to take the bride out for a ride. But after hearing my reports from the test drives she respectfully declined.....can't say I blame her. I am making sure I have my cell phone with me as I do the test runs in case I have to call my son!

Thanks, Jim
 
I am definitely no expert, but if it didn't shake like that before the brake job, then I wouldn't think it's the radius rod ball.
I would try to narrow it down to either front or back brakes. Then maybe it's only a bearing or something simple.

Tommy-
 
Get under the car with a big rubber mallet and bang on the ends of the rear radius arms. My guess is that one end has come loose. If that is not it, tighten everything you can associated with the rear suspension. Loose backing plate????
 
What procedure did you use to adjust the brake rods and the individual wheels after putting it all back together?
 
I used the Purdy method to adjust the brakes. I turned the wedges in (I also installed floaters) till there was slight rubbing. Then I put the rods on and made them so they just fit into the clevis. Have been making minor adjustments to the wedges as I do the test drives. I honestly don't remember if the shaking was there with the old brakes. They were so bad I was afraid to drive it much thus the brake job.
 
I'd recommend that you check the torque on the axle nuts to make sure the drums and hubs are not loose, then pull the rear drums and using Les Andrews book make sure you've assembled the service and emergency brakes and installed the hardware correctly. Also check that nothing has come loose or is getting caught by the emergency brake carrier causing it to partially engage when you engage the the service brakes. Also as others have noted check that you tightened the radius rod bolts at the backing plates. Just for the heck of it check to make sure the rear radius rod bolt on the ****** is tight as well. When I did my brakes everything looked fine from a distance but I found that the nut was just for show (no threads) and all that was holding it on was the cotter pin.
 
The fact that the emergency brake handle shakes points the problem is rear end and like Tommy Coupe #4 I'd try and locate it to front or rear initially ( disconnect front brakes and see if it continues to confirm?)
 
checked all bolts - everything fine. I am going to take the front brake rods off and take it for a spin. Having company this afternoon so it may foil my attempt for a while. Will report back asap!
 
Update on today's tests:

1.Removed both front brake rods at cross shaft. Took for test drive. NO shake when brakes applied at 15, 30 & 40 MPH. Tested emergency brake and NO shake.

2. Put left front (drivers side) brake rod on. NO shake at 15 and very slight shake at 35-40 MPH,

3. Unhooked left front rod and hooked up right front. Slight shake at 15 and violent shake returned at 30-40 MPH.

4. Switched front tires. Violent shake is gone. There is still slight shake when hard brakes applied.

5. Hooked left front rod back up. Violent shake is back but MAYBE not QUITE as bad but definitely there. I am thinking it may be magnified but multiple little things. I am thinking of switching front and rear tires in the morning and giving that a try.

As a side not all four rims have just been sand blasted and painted and 4 new Universal tires mounted.

Any comments or suggestions appreciated. Jim
 
1. Wheel bearings in front not right. Tighten them again.

2. Adjust front brakes 1 or 2 clicks "in" and see if directionally better. If so, repeat 1 click at a time.

3. What do you know about condition of front spindle bolts (kingpins)? Wear there can give chattering brakes.
 
BTW it is not an emergency brake. It is a parking brake. I am no expert on this but from what I read, if you use the parking brake while moving, it will mess it up. Ford made it for a parking brake.

It would seem like testing brakes at 30 MPH on a gravel road is a little high speed. Maybe this is the problem. I know I test mine on gravel at maybe 5 or so MPH.

But again I am no expert on this subject and I am sure others on this site can give you some better comments.
 
If you installed floaters, and then the shake started, it is chattering the shoes.

Take the floaters out and try it.

Then figure out what is causing the floaters to cause chatter.
 
BTW it is not an emergency brake. It is a parking brake. .... if you use the parking brake while moving, it will mess it up. Ford made it for a parking brake.
Sorry Fred, I totally disagree with you. All the original Ford publications refer to it as an "emergency" brake. It is there to be used in an emergency (whatever you deem that to be). It also doubles as a parking brake. A correctly set up emergency brake does not mess up when used.
 
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BTW it is not an emergency brake. It is a parking brake. .... if you use the parking brake while moving, it will mess it up. Ford made it for a parking brake.
Sorry Fred, I totally disagree with you. All the original Ford publications refer to it as an "emergency" brake. It is there to be used in an emergency (whatever you deem that to be). It also doubles as a parking brake. A correctly set up emergency brake does not mess up when used.
 

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It's referred to as an emergency brake and is to be used in an emergency, but don't be surprised if the stopping lug gets torn and bent from all the braking force. Even after Ford changed to a double thickness lug, I've seen them torn and bent down.

Due to the design of the band, it is very self energizing and applies a lot of force to the lug. In other words, be sure you have excellent service brakes so you only have to use the bands as parking brakes.

Maybe the title of this thread should have been "How to Stop" instead of "where to start".:D
 
Tom - you are right about the title of the question and your wisdom of the A is amazing. This morning I took both front wheels off and tightened the spindle nut one notch on the castle nut. Wheel felt very solid - turned a little harder but still free. Put wheels back on and did test drive. Shake is still there although not as prevalent at 35-40 mph but if I leave the brakes applied by the time I slowed to low 20's the shake got much heavier. Goes away when I get down to around 10 mph. After tightening the nuts I can still grab the top of the tire and feel a slight wiggle. Is this normal or is it an indication the bearings need changing. I am getting "hundred dollar'd" to death. I am thinking the bearings would be a good investment but sure would be discouraging if still have the same problem. Any suggestions? Thanks again, Jim
 
The bearings are tapered and should remove all play when slightly snugged, UNLESS the outer bearing race has spun in the hub and left the hub slightly oversized. I have a spare hub with mint drum that I bought at a swap meet that is this way. I didn't realize the bearing was loose in the hub until I got home and felt it move sideways. I can probably shim it and use it though, but even if the hub is too far gone, the drum is like new.
 
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