What options do I've left?

This is a very useful tool. I have 2 of them in my tool box, and they have saved quite a bit of damaged threads for me. The tool is well worth the investment. I paid $ $40.00 for my first one, and $ 10.00 for my second one. I am very happy with my purchases.
 
If you’re doing the brakes, and have both drums off anyway, don’t forget to lap the tapers on both sides. vanpeltsales.com and thirdgenauto.com are excellent sources for parts…….Mark
 
nickthebandit said:
This is a very useful tool. I have 2 of them in my tool box, and they have saved quite a bit of damaged threads for me. The tool is well worth the investment. I paid $ $40.00 for my first one, and $ 10.00 for my second one. I am very happy with my purchases.
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Nickthebandit, yeah, they're are great to have. The first one I bought it at the swap meet corral at Goodguys in Scottsdale, AZ and it was a BluePoint NOS. Second one, off eBay slightly used.

flatford8 said:
If you’re doing the brakes, and have both drums off anyway, don’t forget to lap the tapers on both sides. vanpeltsales.com and thirdgenauto.com are excellent sources for parts…….Mark
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Flatford8 - Here's a learning moment for me: I don't know what you meant to "lap the tapers". I'm new to this and I couldn't find any reference to lapping the tapers in the shop manual, or Van Pelt's guide. Does it mean to smooth the surface if it's pitted or install metal shims?

Yes! I do Mike from thirdgenauto.com and Vanpeltsales as steady suppliers.

Thanks.
 
nickthebandit said:
This is a very useful tool. I have 2 of them in my tool box, and they have saved quite a bit of damaged threads for me. The tool is well worth the investment. I paid $ $40.00 for my first one, and $ 10.00 for my second one. I am very happy with my purchases.
Click to expand...
What size do you use on the axels we have?
 
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Conrad Rossi said:
Nickthebandit, yeah, they're are great to have. The first one I bought it at the swap meet corral at Goodguys in Scottsdale, AZ and it was a BluePoint NOS. Second one, off eBay slightly used.



Flatford8 - Here's a learning moment for me: I don't know what you meant to "lap the tapers". I'm new to this and I couldn't find any reference to lapping the tapers in the shop manual, or Van Pelt's guide. Does it mean to smooth the surface if it's pitted or install metal shims?

Yes! I do Mike from thirdgenauto.com and Vanpeltsales as steady suppliers.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

With the drums off, remove the axle key and apply grinding compound to the axle tapers, then reinstall the drums with the axle nut just barely loose so you can spin the drum by hand. This is lapping the tapers. Remove and examine your work, you'll see how much more you'll need to lap. Be sure to clean all the compound off, and install the drum dry, no oil or grease whatsoever, and with a new axle key. This lapping operation is especially important to your job due to the compromised axle nut threads.
 
Best wishes Conrad.


Just went through installing axles, axle nuts and re-torquing. I understand mating the surfaces so as not to ride on the axle key. A tip I got here on Fordbarn was using lapping compound on the hubs and axles prior to final assembly. Tried it and in my opinion that's the trick to get a good tight fit.


The thing that drives me nuts though is the re-torquing and aligning the cotter pin holes simultaneously. Either I get the perfect torque or align the holes but not both. I defaulted to backing off rather than tightening when I get to 200 ft-lbs and the holes don't align. Comments?
 
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Conrad Rossi said:
Nickthebandit, yeah, they're are great to have. The first one I bought it at the swap meet corral at Goodguys in Scottsdale, AZ and it was a BluePoint NOS. Second one, off eBay slightly used.



Flatford8 - Here's a learning moment for me: I don't know what you meant to "lap the tapers". I'm new to this and I couldn't find any reference to lapping the tapers in the shop manual, or Van Pelt's guide. Does it mean to smooth the surface if it's pitted or install metal shims?

Yes! I do Mike from thirdgenauto.com and Vanpeltsales as steady suppliers.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Sorry, stepped away for a bit……yes, what Alan & SoCal said……….Mark
 
Conrad Rossi said:
Hello --

Long time not posting. I ended up buying an axle rethread tool as Bob C recommended and I was able to successfully rethread the axle end. Successfully, without counting I bought two tools. I didn't have my glasses on and didn't notice it missed the diameter I needed.
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What size worked for you?
 
As for lapping, Oreillys has a package with two different compound tubes, one is 120 grit, one is 220. Start with the 120 grit. Versachem is the brand, $6ish for the package. Nice thing, it is grease-based, so stays put whilst you are lapping.
 
ford38v8 said:
With the drums off, remove the axle key and apply grinding compound to the axle tapers, then reinstall the drums with the axle nut just barely loose so you can spin the drum by hand. This is lapping the tapers. Remove and examine your work, you'll see how much more you'll need to lap. Be sure to clean all the compound off, and install the drum dry, no oil or grease whatsoever, and with a new axle key. This lapping operation is especially important to your job due to the compromised axle nut threads.
Click to expand...
Ford38v8 - Thanks for the detailed explanation. A few questions as this is still new to me:
1. Need to load the hubs with bearings and seas. And surface to lap is what I marked on the picture below
2. Does it matter if the brake shoes are on?
3. Lapping is needed for the front brakes as well

Thank you!
705cf303ca977f9942b295be21065c5e.jpg


-Conrad
 
SoCalCoupe said:
Best wishes Conrad.


Just went through installing axles, axle nuts and re-torquing. I understand mating the surfaces so as not to ride on the axle key. A tip I got here on Fordbarn was using lapping compound on the hubs and axles prior to final assembly. Tried it and in my opinion that's the trick to get a good tight fit.


The thing that drives me nuts though is the re-torquing and aligning the cotter pin holes simultaneously. Either I get the perfect torque or align the holes but not both. I defaulted to backing off rather than tightening when I get to 200 ft-lbs and the holes don't align. Comments?
Click to expand...
SoCalCoupe - this is good a good tip to know. Thanks!

-Conrad
 
1952henry said:
As for lapping, Oreillys has a package with two different compound tubes, one is 120 grit, one is 220. Start with the 120 grit. Versachem is the brand, $6ish for the package. Nice thing, it is grease-based, so stays put whilst you are lapping.
Click to expand...
1953henry - Thank you!

-Conrad
 
You are welcome. Hoping for good outcome. Going through this right now lapping pinion yoke to pinion on my Marmon Herrington front axle. Going a step further, I have some 320, 600, and 800 grit on the way.
 
Conrad Rossi said:
Ford38v8 - Thanks for the detailed explanation. A few questions as this is still new to me:
1. Need to load the hubs with bearings and seas. And surface to lap is what I marked on the picture below
2. Does it matter if the brake shoes are on?
3. Lapping is needed for the front brakes as well -Conrad
Click to expand...

Where you marked, drum to axle, with key removed so drum can turn.
Axle nut on loosely to keep drum from wobbling while you turn by hand.
Brake shoes can be on, but not dragging.
Front brakes lapping? Wrong term: Arcing is what you do to brake shoes.
 
ford38v8 said:
Where you marked, drum to axle, with key removed so drum can turn.

Axle nut on loosely to keep drum from wobbling while you turn by hand.

Brake shoes can be on, but not dragging.

Front brakes lapping? Wrong term: Arcing is what you do to brake shoes.
Click to expand...
Thanks ... And that's what I'll do!

-Conrad
 
Conrad Rossi said:
Petehoovie - Size is 5/8 20. I could have sworn it was 3/4.

Sent from my Pixel 9 Pro XL using Tapatalk
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I have just checked two NOS ford axles threads which are spares for my 34 Ford and they are 5/8 x 18 TPI and NOT 5/8 x 20 TPI. Checked with a thread gauge and a Starrett die nut. If you use a 20 TPI die or die nut the existing threads on the axle will be wrecked. Regards, Kevin.
 
koates said:
I have just checked two NOS ford axles threads which are spares for my 34 Ford and they are 5/8 x 18 TPI and NOT 5/8 x 20 TPI. Checked with a thread gauge and a Starrett die nut. If you use a 20 TPI die or die nut the existing threads on the axle will be wrecked. Regards, Kevin.
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Hello Kevin - Thanks for checking to ensure I did it right. Don't have the car near me right now to check the tool used.

Hello All, question, please, can someone confirm the thread for an early 1946 ford rear axle?

Thank you.

-Conrad
 
I was able to check the photo I posted with the tool on the axle. It's 18 tpi and not 20 tpi as I originally posted. Below is the zoomed in photo:

Thanks all for checking my work. Much appreciated.
859f1cd8b1cdc1a56934057bd8b4c6e5.jpg


-Conrad
 
Hello -

Update.

I've had time today so I'm installing new shoes. I had to do the job twice because this early 1946 has the Lockheed wheel cylinders so the long shoe faces forward.

Since it's an original Arizona car all metal parts have almost no rust. Everything gets "preserved" under layers of hardened clay. Cleaning it up and hitting it with protective paint makes it look new.

Now off to the other three wheels, packing the hubs and lapping the axles.
9277b340bcb4b150b3bea4868b815dd6.jpg


-Conrad
 
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