What options do I've left?

Note: A rg#85 V8 club member had this happen: Top inner edge of key caught his drum. Drum would not come off. So now I round off the top inner edge of the key. Newc
 
Hi NewC - Good call. Your post explains the difference in keys the car has between the old and the new repro keys. Thank you.

Conrad

-Conrad
 
Hello,

Another update.

Completed refurbishing all backing plates, wheel cylinders, installed new shoes, and hardware. The front shoes are arches and I lapped the rear axle ends.

Next, I need to pack in the bearings and races for all four hubs. I have NOS Timken.

When flushing the brake lines, I couldn't get rid of all gunk and ancient brake fluid. The first picture shows a fraction of what it came when leaving the lines filled with brake cleaner several times to remove the goo.

The brake lines have no rust and still decided to replace all brake lines. It's not what I really wanted to do but I didn't want to compromise the wheel cylinders since they are refurbished. And I'm installing a new master cylinder.

The second picture shows one of the refurbished brake assemblies, rear driver's side. The wheel cylinder is the original Lockheed one.

I never did brake lines so it will be an interesting project. Any tips on how to approach making the brake lines would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

Conrad
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-Conrad
 
I replaced all of the hardlines on my '51 when I restored it on 1988. I bought a good double flaring tool, a couple of benders, and a roll of standard steel brake line. The hardest part was getting consistently good double flares. I finally got the hang of it, but not after I had to buy a second 25' roll of brake line. Duplicating the bends can be a problem as well. Be careful to preserve as much of the old lines as you can because they can be used as patterns to bend the new line. I didn't and it used up a little more of that second roll. In the end, it worked out well. I still have the car and drive it quite a bit. The only problem I had was about 5 years ago when one of the old clamps I reused came loose. It was an easy fix.

I believe that pre-bent brake line kits are available. I did a quick internet search, and couldn't find any, but I'll bet they are out there. Probably more expensive but a lot easier.

If you want to make your own and are not looking for a concours restoration, forget the steel line and go with the new Cupro/Nickel line (Ni-Copp). It is much easier to work with and it doesn't rust or corrode like steel eventually does. I did the front lines on my '99 F150 about 5 years with it, and didn't screw up a single double-flare.

Good luck with your project.
 
Conrad, on my 42 and my 46 I used pre bent brake lines from Classic Tube in Lancaster NY. Can't remember what I paid but it wasn't that expensive, and they fit great.
 
1942deluxe said:
Conrad, on my 42 and my 46 I used pre bent brake lines from Classic Tube in Lancaster NY. Can't remember what I paid but it wasn't that expensive, and they fit great.
Click to expand...

There ya' go. It's a lot easier (and probably better) than making your own from scratch.
 
tubman said:
There ya' go. It's a lot easier (and probably better) than making your own from scratch.
Click to expand...
Tubman - Your post inspired me to learn how to make my own lines. The good thing is now I've the tools to do the fuel lines.

1942deluxe - Thank you. Before I was about to purchase the tools on Amazon, I checked the supplier you recommended and their website doesn't list premade brakes for 1946 Ford's.

Amazon dropped the supplies and tools to hopefully do a good job. If not I'll be ordering a lot more of Ni-Cu alloy tubing.

I spent a little bit more on an Eastwood clone flaring tool as I wanted to minimize any rookie errors on my side. I still have to figure out how to make the bends.




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-Conrad
 
Conrad, they do have them. I had to call them, and I think they show them listed as fitting a 41 Ford in their system. I should've mentioned that earlier. Found the invoice. Their P/N is FD1004-OE and in 2022 the complete set was $151.99 plus shipping.
 
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1942deluxe said:
Conrad, they do have them. I had to call them, and I think they show them listed as fitting a 41 Ford in their system. I should've mentioned that earlier. Found the invoice. Their P/N is FD1004-OE and in 2022 the complete set was $151.99 plus shipping.
Click to expand...
1942deluxe - thank you for looking into this. That's a good price for plug-n-play. It's about the same cost of the materials and tools I bought. Definitely, I'll reach out to them if making my own lines doesn't' work. Glad to know there's still a source around. I do mostly my research for parts and purchases after business hours because of my schedule.

-Conrad
 
tubman said:
I think you made the right decision. Another addition to your skill set.
Click to expand...
Tubman, thank you. Let's see as it's one of those things that only the results will tell.

Probably it will take me 10x more than anyone with experience bending and flaring lines.

As a side note, I have an old Motor's copy and always get a kick out of the time it takes me compared to what's published. My time is close to the "double the time on the book and change it to the next unit of measure".

-Conrad
 
Conrad, I made new fuel lines on both my 42 and 46 with the alloy tubing. Don't think I had to use a bender at all. That alloy tubing is neat stuff. Might want to start with the fuel line to build your confidence! If you can save your old brake lines for a pattern it will help. I never was "flat rate" on the labor times either. Well once I guess when the 42's newly rebuilt engine didn't have oil pressure. I had that out in less than 4 hours and back in running in about the same, but I was flaming mad!
 
I'm sure it will turn out well. If I could do it in steel, anyone could do it in "Ni-Copp", it's that much easier to work with.
 
Hello, I got a few small updates after two weeks.

Update #1.
I started repacking the front hubs, the first time ever a job of this type. I had a little hiccup as I forgot the front hub requires a special size or bearing race installer, which is especially useful for the outside bearing race. The inside race went in fine with the standard bearing installer. Also, I found out the incorrect inner bearing seals were sent. So I was set not to finish the job as there were no local auto stores that had them in stock.

Disappointed, I went on to install the outside race. It was all good until it was leveled with the hub. The kit I had didn't have a matching bearing fitting.

Geniusly, I considered using a spare bearing race I had as a guide. So far so good until I delegated my brain usage to the hammer for the next step... Yes, "dumb, dumb, dumb" I hammered the second race and ended up installing two bearing races. Disappointed, I had to sacrifice the guide by cutting into it with a grinder to provide expansion. And create two points to work it out in both axis to gracefully remove it with a punch and hammer. Then, I could turn it into a bearing race driver.

Using the bench grinder I removed material so there was no interference with the hub so it wouldn't get installed again. The sharpie ink mark was used as a guide.

Update #2
Today the replacement seals arrived. I packed the inner bearing and installed the seal.
Three more hubs to go! Plus making the brake lines.

I keep you posted.
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-Conrad
 
Thanks for all your posts - you do very meticulous work and are obviously a perfectionist! Those are good skills/practices to have when working on these old cars.

Question: I liked that tubing bender you had in the vice (the one with all the wheels). That would make a lot of bends super fast when using Ni-Cop . . . can you tell me where you bought it and the part number? I need to get one of those!

Note: The most important aspect of the job is to practice a few times with the double-flaring tool (on just a couple extra lengths of tubing). It takes a bit of practice to not scar up the tubing ends - so go through the process a few times. Also, there will be situations where you need to put the flares on the ends - BEFORE you put a bend near the end (due to the room it takes for the flaring tool to work). You'll get the hang of it and will find that while it is a bit time-consuming, it is rewarding work!
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Thanks for all your posts - you do very meticulous work and are obviously a perfectionist! Those are good skills/practices to have when working on these old cars.

Question: I liked that tubing bender you had in the vice (the one with all the wheels). That would make a lot of bends super fast when using Ni-Cop . . . can you tell me where you bought it and the part number? I need to get one of those!

Note: The most important aspect of the job is to practice a few times with the double-flaring tool (on just a couple extra lengths of tubing). It takes a bit of practice to not scar up the tubing ends - so go through the process a few times. Also, there will be situations where you need to put the flares on the ends - BEFORE you put a bend near the end (due to the room it takes for the flaring tool to work). You'll get the hang of it and will find that while it is a bit time-consuming, it is rewarding work!
Click to expand...
Hi Bored&Stroked - Thank you! It usually saves me time and getting things right the first time, unless I let the ball peen hammer think for me.

I definitely will be making several practice flares before making the lines. I've never done it before either.

Regarding the tool in the picture, it's a tube straightener I bought from Amazon to straighten the brake and fuel lines. Anyhow, here's the link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ3GLDF2?tag=atomicindus08-20.

Aheszeed Tubing Straightener, 3/16 to 1/2 IN Diameters Brake Line Straightener, Tube Straightener and Wire Straightener Fit for Fuel Line, Brake Line, Aluminum Tubing and Copper Tubing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DJ3GLDF2?tag=atomicindus08-20

Now off to redo the front passenger hub.



-Conrad
 
Another tip . . . that you only learn the hard way! If you're going to be making a tight bend, then make sure the fitting (that slides over the tube) is positioned near the end (before the bend). Otherwise, you'll soon learn that you cannot slide it through the bend to the end of the tube . . . . there goes another chunk of wasted tubing!

We've all made this mistake - comes with learning the process.
 
Good points all, I can think of only one more: Manicure the tubing ends before the flair, as any rough spots will tend to magnify into cracks.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
Another tip . . . that you only learn the hard way! If you're going to be making a tight bend, then make sure the fitting (that slides over the tube) is positioned near the end (before the bend). Otherwise, you'll soon learn that you cannot slide it through the bend to the end of the tube . . . . there goes another chunk of wasted tubing!

We've all made this mistake - comes with learning the process.
Click to expand...
Thank you, Bored&Stroked! Hopefully, I'll be tackling the lines this weekend!

-Conrad
 
ford38v8 said:
Good points all, I can think of only one more: Manicure the tubing ends before the flair, as any rough spots will tend to magnify into cracks.
Click to expand...
Ford38v8! Yes! That's what I read it's important to do to achieve a good flare.

BTW, is there a special tool or what's the installation procedure to install the snap ring for the rear bearing hub? I only have two rings with me and I don't want to destroy them or maim myself since the spring force the snap ring has seems to carry considerable force.

Thanks,
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-Conrad
 
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