Water Pump Replacement

Coneross-A

Coneross-A

Member
My water pump developed a leak around the shaft a while back. So I went to a local supplier of model A parts and obtained the packing. On Friday I set about what I expected to be a 45 minute task with the anticipation of taking a nice Sunday morning drive. BTW...it is sunny and 60°F today, but my radiator is on the floor in the garage, and there will be no country side cruise today.

When I went to remove the packing nut, it was extremely tight. It took large chanellocks just to break it loose. Even once loose it was difficult to turn. It was evident that as I turned the packing nut, the bushing was turning with it. That means the water pump has to come off, which means the radiator comes off too. :mad:.....After removing the radiator, and getting the water pump out of the engine, I found that there was a big chunk of metal missing out of the casing where the rear bushing is pressed in. So much for that water pump, and so much for my Sunday morning drive.

This brings me to my question. Being still very new at Model A stuff, what is the best course for replacing the water pump? Is buying a new pump a good approach?...or should I find an original pump and rebuild it? I've seen a lot of stories about reproduction equipment not working well.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, I will probably take this opportunity to have the radiator boiled out. I haven't had any cooling issues, but there is a grease buildup inside the radiator.
 
Rebuild or new is really a matter of how much you can do and how much you want to do. I prefer to build my own but I know a lot of owners who just buy the units from the major suppliers. I have seen so many housings that are of so many different degrees of quality. Some literally weigh twice as much as others as the casting is beefier. That chunk on the backside of the pump probably broke due to the pressing or the hammering in of the rear bearing. Good idea to have the radiator gone thru while its out. Just a tip with a two blade fan you do not need to pull the radiator to change the pump. You need only loosen the top hose and the top support rods and then pull the radiator forward.
 
My opinion: Stay with the original design. When a leakless pump fails sometion in the future, on the road, you better have a spare pump because you can't fix them on the fly. They are great as long as they don't leak. If you don't drive your car much, it does not matter what you use.
 
The leakless pumps are good pumps, all the majors sell them. But give them a call before you order and ask them questions. I have never had a bad experience with four I regularly use and their knowledge really is helpful. If you have some mechanical know-how and it reads as you do, find an original heavier casting and rebuild it. If you have a leak on the road you can fix it in a heart beat, and this maybe or not the case (lucky) with the leakless.
 
I would go leakless and greaseless.. These pumps are a little more but are made of the best quality.. http://www.leaklessapumps.com/extreme.htm
After having issues with the suppliers leakless units I have yet to have the extreme pump fail. Beware some leakless still have greaseable fittings so if your doing it go fully maintenance free....
Also the R/S (passenger side) upper water pump stud goes into the water jacket (it's not a blind hole) so use some sealer on that one. I usually use the fake studs when going back together..
 
Last edited:
Mitch//pa said:
I would go leakless and greaseless.. These pumps are a little more but are made of the best quality.. http://www.leaklessapumps.com/extreme.htm
After having issues with the suppliers leakless units I have yet to have the extreme pump fail. Beware some leakless still have greaseable fittings so if your doing it go fully maintenance free....
Also the R/S (passenger side) upper water pump stud goes into the water jacket (it's not a blind hole) so use some sealer on that one. I usually use the fake studs when going back together..
Click to expand...

James Rupert makes a great water pump. What Mitch said x2.
 
Mine turned like your bushing did and some how cracked the back of the pump, check for any cracks. I haven't had trouble with them in the past so just rebuilt another one as original.
 
Today I spent a little time cleaning up....might as well...no sunday drive through the country. (Yes..I am still bitter about that)...Anyway, I actually found the missing chunk of metal. It was in the radiator....Heard something rattling around when I put it in the truck. Used a magnetized grabber to get it out.... A little JB Weld and some bailing wire....and the old water pump will be like new!!!
 
Coneross-A said:
Today I spent a little time cleaning up....might as well...no sunday drive through the country. (Yes..I am still bitter about that)...Anyway, I actually found the missing chunk of metal. It was in the radiator....Heard something rattling around when I put it in the truck. Used a magnetized grabber to get it out.... A little JB Weld and some bailing wire....and the old water pump will be like new!!!
Click to expand...
JB Weld is not metal.. Zero structural strength.
 
I am not planning on using JB Weld or bailing wire....I was just kidding...
icon10.gif
. The old water pump is done. I am mulling over the suggestions I've received...(Which I do appreciate by the way) and trying to decide which way to go. I spoke with a gentleman last week who was telling me about the Phaeton he owned for forty years, and sold some time ago. I believe he said he had some parts, including water pumps that he no longer needs. I may try my hand at rebuilding one of those. There's some satisfaction to be had in rebuilding rather than buying parts. The leakless route sounds good too though, and would certainly be a quicker fix than rebuilding. If I go the leakless pump route, I'd want a quality pump like the ones Mitch recommended, but..that comes with a higher cost. As for the studs...I haven't tried to get them out yet. They are small diameter, and the chance that I might ring one of them off makes me a bit nervous.
 
"They are small diameter, and the chance that I might ring one of them off makes me a bit nervous."

Good thought and if you do this, you may want to get some ideas from people that know how to do this. Sorry I can't give you any ideas because seems like every time I try this, I have a problem. But I think some of this guys on this site may have some good ideas.

The only reason I suggested this above is that if I remember correctly, when I changed my pump, with the studs out, I was able to get the pump out without taking the radiator completely out. I just took the tie rods off going to the firewall and pulled the radiator against the headlight bar. Good luck with your "fun".
 
I side with the guys that do the original rebuild. You might aim to rebuild 2 originals fit to your motor. carry one as a spare for trips, or to switch out when needed.
There are leakless pumps, and there are leakless pumps that resist rebuilding.
With maintenance a conventional rebuild will last a long time, and allow you to spend the extra money on the backup wp.
Roadside repair of a conventional wp is doable, the leakless when they fail are not so easy.
Another weakness I see with the rear seal is that rubber doesn;t like abrasives like scale from the cooling system and needs a pit free surface on the shaft to run and seal. And,
I like learning how to rebuild the originals, and the satisfaction of knowing how.
Bob
 
Last edited:
Jacksonlll said:
My opinion: Stay with the original design. When a leakless pump fails sometion in the future, on the road, you better have a spare pump because you can't fix them on the fly. They are great as long as they don't leak. If you don't drive your car much, it does not matter what you use.
Click to expand...

I purchased a leakless pump from Snyder's that has emergency lead packing. It's in the nut, but isn't normally used. The nut is tightened only enough to keep the nut from moving. The packing in the nut is ready to be tightened in case the leakless pump ever leaks. The disadvantage is the rear fitting does need occasional grease. However, the front is sealed, and has fake fitting.
 
One (1) water pump experience:

1. Similarly to some thoughts above, figured our newer vehicle water pumps since 1942 never leaked, so I bought a Model A leak-less water pump kit from Bratton's about 6 years ago.

2. Had years of experience with the old type which on a few occasions would fling grease and water making a mess under the hood which is at times difficult to clean.


3. Fake bolts makes sense for not having to remove the radiator when removing or installing the water pump ..... always use anti-seize compound on bolt threads for easy future removal.

4. Anyway, absolutely no leaks ...... no mess ....... looks original ..... new modern, durable water pump parts worked fine after (6) years or so with no problems ....... however ....... seems some people might prefer to marry 87+ year old mates ...... at our age ....... just appears a younger, modern one might be able to offer far better long lasting service.
 
When I changed my pump a year or so ago (with studs), I was able to do it WITHOUT removing the radiator. Loosened the rad rods (go to f/wall), tilted the rad away as far as I could, Installed a cardboard shield and was able to "snake" the old pump off and install the new. FWIW

Paul in CT
 
Fred S said:
I purchased a leakless pump from Snyder's that has emergency lead packing. It's in the nut, but isn't normally used. The nut is tightened only enough to keep the nut from moving. The packing in the nut is ready to be tightened in case the leakless pump ever leaks. The disadvantage is the rear fitting does need occasional grease. However, the front is sealed, and has fake fitting.
Click to expand...

Leakless pump leaking - oxymoron !
 
I read a survey awhile back that said that leakless water pumps, percentage wise, were the most used as replacements for Model A water pumps. FWIW.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top