Water pump replacement

Walton Feep

Walton Feep

Member
I am replacing the water pumps on a 59/AB installed in a 41 Super Deluxe. What is the best way to support the engine? I have jackstands and a bottle jack but no floor jack. Where do I place the jack to do the lifting? I did some searching but couldn't locate a thread on this.

Thanks in advance!
 
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Just take a foot long 2 X 8, place it under the pan and jack up with your bottle jack enough to lift the pump off the mount 1/4". That's all. Take off and replace one pump at a time. If your mount rubber donuts are mushy, replace them at the same time.
John
 
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Invest in a good floor jack. The most useful tool in your garage unless your main hobby is model cars.

John advised to lift the engine ¼" only. Make your job easier if you lift it enough to change out the old rubber donut, and to get the bolt in and out, as they tend to get stuck in place. Don't smash the fuel pump stand against the firewall, use a piece of cardboard to save your knuckles from the radiator, and don't forget the bolt on the inside of the water pump hole, to be removed with a 6 point socket. Reassembly use only grease to hold the gasket on, no sealant, and place one temporary stud to set the pump in place for alignment.
 
Unless you're running straight water a stainless bolt shouldn't be needed. A grade 8 with some anti-seize on the threads and you should be good. They only rust up from sitting for decades with little care like most flatheads seem to do until rescued.
 
Regarding placing the wood under the pan, it looks like it has to go under the deepest part of the pan where the drain plug is located. Or is the 12" long 2x8 suppose to go at the very front edge where the pan's attachment bolts are located?

The front part of the pan is too far forward and can't be accessed from below as far as I can tell. So I am confused as to G.M.'s instructions about keeping the wood under the front edge of the pan to avoid denting it.

Advice about the placement of the wood would be appreciated.

Thanks!
 
I always just placed the wood as far forward on the low flat part of the pan as it would reasonably fit. The engine will pivot on the trans mount, and lifting it a few inches never caused any problems for me. Also, I saw a thread the other day (maybe on here?) that basically stated to NOT use grade 8 bolts unless they are specifically needed because their hardness makes it difficult to weld to them later if they would break. I would like to know more about this. I wonder if this pertains to stainless bolts as well?
 
Do not put the wood at the rear. It goes at the front. GM meant flush with the forward end of the sump, not on the edge where it bolts to the block. He said that so that the sump would not be dented if your wood didn't have enough surface area to provide sufficient support.
 
If the hood is off you can just use a hoist & lifting straps through the exhaust manifolds, too.

I had mine hanging like that for quite a while.

Changing the mounts is a snap, so if they are even close to being squished or crumbly you might as well do all 4.
 
In addition to what has already been suggested, and depending on how high you raise the front of the engine, you may want to consider loosening the two transmission mount bolts, and if you have engine steady/anti chatter rods, loosen/remove the bolts that attach those rods to the frame. If the front engine mount rubber donuts need to be replaced, the two in the back at the transmission may also need replacing.
 
Before I start applying pressure, is this the correct setup?

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I may get some flak for this, but I think the positioning is OK. What bothers me is the small area on the top of the jack. I would be afraid that the wood might split because the force is so concentrated. I would try to find a small steel plate to try to spread the force.
 
As long as you still use the wood in there and not use a steel plate only, with a little oil the steel on steel becomes very dangerous and can slip out with out warning::::::
 
Walton, I'm afraid that all this advice is going to make you gun shy of doing the job. The jack alone would dent the oil pan. The wood you have is fine as it is, just go for it.
 
I would like to see the jack more towards the front. The strength of the pan is in the front where it curves up. G.M.
 
ford38v8 said:
Walton, I'm afraid that all this advice is going to make you gun shy of doing the job. The jack alone would dent the oil pan. The wood you have is fine as it is, just go for it.
Click to expand...

Walton, I agree with Alan. These guys are trying to scare you. I am surprised someone hasn't commented "what if we have an earthquake when it is jacked up?" You are only lifting maybe 300#?? Maybe the same weight as 1 1/2 Fordbarners
You are good to go.
John
 
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