Water & bubbles through head stud nut threads

[Synchro909]

Yes, that's what I had to do for a club member, but only two holes needed to be threaded and plugged.

As I recall it, 2 is correct but that was not a Russian B block. Maybe the Ruskies did it different!

 

[Mitch//pa]

---

 

[Mitch//pa]

Try retorquing the head again. FWIW Nothing to lose.
Paul in CT

Yep ,, keep doing it until you get no more movement on the nuts.
Twice is not enough

 

[Synchro909]

Yep ,, keep doing it until you get no more movement on the nuts.
Twice is not enough

I agree - twice is not enough. I've seen some on this forum say they check the tension at each service. I think that once no more movement can be achieved at a re-torque, that is probably more than is needed but good insurance. IMHO, unless there hes been some "event" like over heating, 3,000 miles is OK after no movement is felt at a tension check.

 

[Art Newland]

Just put a new head on, all new studs and nuts. Oozed up through the nuts for the first hour of run time. Sealed up all by it's self.

 

[Chippy Minton]

I always thought that if you use a B block with an A head you should plug the four steam holes and use an A head gasket. If your leak continues I would research this.

I've got a B block with an A head and I was recommended to use a B gasket with no further work. It all works fine.

 

[29Phaeton]

Happy to report it stopped leaking! I pulled and sealed the stud with the distributor clamp (the easy one to get out) and the other two stud leaks went away over time. Re-torqued the stud nuts again, 4 moved but most were tight. Starts right up and idles nice, just waiting for a rebuilt carb to get here from FedEx and I'll be good to go!

 

[Mitch//pa]

Great report.
Technician in a can was not needed