Truck based woody

Very cool Gary! Quite similar in a lot of ways to mine. Even the belt line. Also the doors being about 4" above the running boards. I'd love to see a couple of photos of the one in your avatar. Does it remain unrestored? Thanks
 
I've really enjoyed your build thread. I can identify with it quite well, as I helped my brother "restore"? a '46 woodie back in the late 60's which we had rescued out of my Grandad's back yard. It seems that a gentleman owed my grandad Ples a little money on his grocery store tab. My grand parents ran a country strore at Monkey's Eyebrow, Ky. (True story). Grandad took the car for the money owed and it sat in his yard for several years. If I remember correctly, the car only had about 35,000 miles on it and was very intact, even though the roof covering had deteriorated, ruining some of the wood. I think Charley paid Grandad $60 for it.

Didn't do much to it mechanically, except for brakes and tires and such. We sanded and prepped the body metal and Charles did most of the wood repair himself. He eliminated the rear doors making the Woodie a two-door. It turned out pretty nice for a teen ager first attempt, and was painted Corvette Yellow. He was proud of it and drove it to high school some and during the summer of '66. He started to college at UK in the fall so the Woodie went to the chicken house for a several year siesta. A neighbor who was a body man bought it years later to restore, but never did. I never heard where the car wound up.
 
Good Memories!

Charley also acquired a '48 Tudor Super Deluxe parts car about that time and never did anything with it. He wound up giving me the '48, which I have built into a hot rod with an OT engine/drive train.

It's still a work in progress. They're never quite finished, are they.

Al Hook
 
The baltic birch for interior panels comes in metric sizes and I got 3 mm instead if 6mm which is near the 1/4"I had hoped for so I switched over to some other areas. I have been working on the instrument panel and the directional signal system. I had to fix my gas gauge so I decided to reface all the instruments with a set of stick ons from Macs. Came out pretty well. I had a couple of 'memory mishaps' where I left the push-pull ignition switch on and drained the battery so I installed an idiot light in an existing hole above the switch. Today I fabricated some brackets for rear directional lamps. I had seen a 1926 model T rear lamp and thought it was just what I was seeking for rear directional lamps so I ordered a couple from Snyders. Beautifully made. For the front I ended up making a set of 2 pole socket parking lights, as some I had found on a parts truck were not worth refurbishing. I rebuilt a steering column mounted aftermarket blinker switch that I've had for years and got a flasher from napa. The system tests well, and maybe I will get a chance to install some or all of the components tomorrow. I will get some pics of the system over the weekend. Here's some pics of my altered toyota landcruiser door latches which I had from years ago, and the homemade door strikers and the instrument panel. My plan is to work on all these interior systems through the winter and pull them out as completed and tested components so I can clean up and paint the interior for next summer's excursions. Decent seats and of course glass will be on the list as well.
 

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Always look forward to reading your posts!!...I see the gauge says the gas tank is full.....Let’s go for a ride!!!!!...... I hope you and your family enjoy the holidays....Mark
 
Here is a scan showing dovetail placement, and yes, all of them were above the latch on woodies as compared to below on the steel bodied cars. Kinda makes one wonder if there was a particular reason that was done.
Of course a pocket needs to be routed for the dovetail but in addition a 3/32" deep relief will make it flush mounted. The d/t's on my '32 coupe are screwed into wood B pillars and after 85 years still good and tight.
 

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Here is a scan showing dovetail placement, and yes, all of them were above the latch on woodies as compared to below on the steel bodied cars. Kinda makes one wonder if there was a particular reason that was done.
Of course a pocket needs to be routed for the dovetail but in addition a 3/32" deep relief will make it flush mounted. The d/t's on my '32 coupe are screwed into wood B pillars and after 85 years still good and tight.

Thanks Fordors! That's just what I was looking for. It will probably be after the Holidays before I can make a router jig and let them into the door posts, but this gives me a good idea how to place them. The door latching has gone really well, but I know that things tend to sag and get misaligned as the years and miles roll by. The dovetails I bought have an adjustable wedge on the male side and this has to make installation easier.
 
GB,

Fordor has you covered, but here is an additional view if it helps.



Keep v-8ing and 4-banging!
 

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The canned music that adobe spark has is sort of lame, but I don't know how to download something I would like. Like I said, if a friend or someone I meet wants to know how I built this thing, I hate to send them to this thread. I personally have had a ball writing all this and visiting with all of you along the way, but if you aren't a ford 'nut', it may be hard to wade through 2 1/2 years of this thread. Just sayin', and thanks for the nice comments. GB
 
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