Truck based woody
- Thread starter GB SISSON
- Start date
GB SISSON
Well-known member
I have seen quite a few photos by now of 'phantoms' or 'one offs' and there are a few where the belt line or the tops of the doors don't line up in a 'fair curve'. I have striven to keep the lines in fair curves as I go, sometimes needing to tear pieces out and re-do the joints after the fact because I wasn't happy with the line up. About 1/2 hour ago I returned form a buddy's shop where we pulled out a bunch of ash veneers he bought for a project 25 years ago. These are sequential flitches so the pattern can be laid out on the woodie in the manner that the tree grew. I have a veneer press and plan to adhere these veneers to the marine plywood panels that are fitted to the body. The panels are all still removable from the inside.
expavr
Well-known member
Gary
I will be pulling a trailer back to Hansville from SoCal after Easter and should have some room. If you can wait until Spring I can bring it up when we come back. I'd like to make a trip over to Orcas and have a look at your project.
Les Williams
51504bat
Well-known member
GB, don't know if I'll be driving to Seattle for sure but If you want to take Les up on his transport offer I'll make arrangements with him to get him the tank.
Tim
GB SISSON
Well-known member
Either way that works best. I don't suppose we have to decide right away, so we can call it when it gets closer. Very kind of you to offer me that tank. Anyone have a pic in or out of the truck so I can see how it mounts? This could help for when I rout other wiring or exhaust etc if that comes first.
51504bat
Well-known member
GB,
I'll shoot some photos tomorrow of the tank. Les has PM'd me and we're working out the details for the relay north in April if that works for you.
Tim
51504bat
Well-known member
Photos of the '39 p/u tank.
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GB SISSON
Well-known member
It will work great! Been doing some measuring and looks good. I found a bit of time this afternoon to make a mock-up of a rear barn door. This has been a real big problem because of my lack of a real plan on this build. I like to think that nothing is insurmountable, and I still believe that. Between the heavy rear pillars, which are about 3" x 5" I installed a horizontal cross member which I felt would be notched for bumper brackets at a later date. When I got around to planning rear doors or a tailgate and hatch I found that the layout was not compatible with what I had built. On a ford woodie, the tailgate incorporates that horizontal cross member, and it is hinged in such a way as to fold into that space. My design lead to a very strong rear section, but did not allow for a bottom rail on the doors or tailgate. Now my plan is to saw out the 1 x 6 maple cross member and save the bottom 2" or replace the 1 x 6 with a 1 x 2 which is backed up underneath with a strong maple or maybe steel structure to give the rear some extra rigidity. Either way, this mockup is where I am now. I am no stranger to re-work and I will start out with the chainsaw and end up with a router pattern using a top bearing bit. I have all the maple on hand for the rear doors and hope to start this phase after the holidays.
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expavr
Well-known member
Before you cut that lower cross brace there might be another way to deal with it. The attached photos show a late model (48-53) F1 bumper and brackets that I used on the tonner along with a step/toeplate that was fabricated to fill in the gap between the bed and frame. The mounting holes on the (48-53) brackets exactly matched holes in the 40 frame-no drilling and were fabricated with a "kick down" so that the top of the bumper was almost on the same plain as the lower edge of the fender. Judging by your photo it looks like the top of the bumper would be right at or very close to the bottom of that cross brace. The plain iron bumper and brackets came from C&G Ford. http://cgfordparts.com/
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GB SISSON
Well-known member
That's a good suggestion to get the bumper lower but it doesn't solve the problem that the 1x6 lower maple cross member is affixed to the body and is an integral part of the woodie's structure. For the panel layout that carries down the side of the vehicle, let's say from the beltline down there are two equal horizontal panels about 10" wide, separated by a 3" horizontal maple rail or divider. At the bottom of the panels (and all the doors) is a 6" bottom rail. This bottom rail opens with the doors and is an important part of the door's structure. For a rear door or tailgate to shut above the rear cross member it would have to terminate at the panel's bottom edge for the vehicle's lines to carry around the corner. I'm not very good at describing this in words. For a rear door to clear even a lowered bumper, the entire 1x6 rear maple cross member would need to be removed. On the ford built woodie, that 1x6 is actually the lower rail of the tailgate which pivots under the vehicle when opened from what I understand. Maybe someone who owns one can get a photo of the tailgate. I know that on the ford built woodie the nice lines of the wagon's sides carry around to the rear gate as well. That cannot happen with my 1x6 bottom cross member or 'sill' without cutting it lower or cutting it completely out. Upon doing this, your lowered bumper brackets would work very nicely. Thanks.
Mart
Well-known member
Hi GB. The truck is taking shape nicely. I have looked at the pics and think the heavy crossmember needs to be moved inwards, behind the doors. then a thinner sill piece could be used below the doors. I looked at the English Morris travellers that have wooden construction and barn doors. they have a sheet metal sill below the doors and a deep step up inside the doors.
The deep cross piece (in your case) is very necessary to give strength to the rear structure.
I don't know about the bumper, but in my mind it wants to be as simple as possible (if you have one at all).
Type in "Morris traveller rear" in google images and you will see what i was looking at.
Here's one showing the bumper brackets poking through the rear panel.
Not saying you should do it like that, just showing that the strength can be behind the doors and just a cosmetic sill panel below.
Mart.
The deep cross piece (in your case) is very necessary to give strength to the rear structure.
I don't know about the bumper, but in my mind it wants to be as simple as possible (if you have one at all).
Type in "Morris traveller rear" in google images and you will see what i was looking at.
Here's one showing the bumper brackets poking through the rear panel.
Not saying you should do it like that, just showing that the strength can be behind the doors and just a cosmetic sill panel below.
Mart.
GB SISSON
Well-known member
I like that. Structural deep cross member, but moved forward in front of the doors. Looks like I'll be busting out the chain saw soon. Behind the 1" maple is a 2" douglas fir piece that mimics it, and the two are bonded with the 3m 5200 marine adhesive. I would like to have a rear bumper hung on some expaver drop down brackets as I've been known to bump things on occasion while backing up. 
Overkill-F1
Senior Member
GB,
Like flatford8, I like to see other workshops too. It is interesting what others do and have in the background.
In your post #298, in the third photo, under the rear of the truck, on the right hand side, there is a tool tote like the ones we used in cable splicing for the telephone co here.
Where you a telco cable splicer?
...Terry
Like flatford8, I like to see other workshops too. It is interesting what others do and have in the background.
In your post #298, in the third photo, under the rear of the truck, on the right hand side, there is a tool tote like the ones we used in cable splicing for the telephone co here.
Where you a telco cable splicer?
...Terry