Truck based woody

[truckdog62563]

 

[GB SISSON]

Thank you Stu. You are, as always, a gentleman and a scholar.

 

[38bill]

Funny, in the last set of photos I had added a triangle of plywood with a radiused corner in the upper rear corner of the rear side window. I was gonna ask if I should do this in maple like the '47 ford woodies. I know the ford built corner is sawn in and mitered. Then all the while when I think about barn doors I wonder if the two windows should have radiused corners. Henry's wagon lift gate never did. I know the windows need to be big, as my tonner panel's back windows are way too small.

I noticed the radius right away. I like it.

 

[GB SISSON]

Most of the details of this body were based on the 40-41 wagon, and that radius looks really good on that body. Mine would never have the same flowing line as on the ford built body because of the offset from the rear post. If I were to do that radius I may settle for the square cornered windows on the back. So much less work, and I have miles to go yet. edit: After posting these pics, I see they could also be used in the dark panel/blonde panel debate.....

 

[flatford8]

Most of the details of this body were based on the 40-41 wagon, and that radius looks really good on that body. Mine would never have the same flowing line as on the ford built body because of the offset from the rear post. If I were to do that radius I may settle for the square cornered windows on the back. So much less work, and I have miles to go yet. edit: After posting these pics, I see they could also be used in the dark panel/blonde panel debate.....

Blond or Brunette.... THAT debate has been going on for centuries....Then theres always "red" cedar.... LOL ...... Mark

 

[GB SISSON]

Blond or Brunette.... THAT debate has been going on for centuries....Then theres always "red" cedar.... LOL ...... Mark

Or this debate......

 

[GB SISSON]

With 4 doors hung and no more maple for a while, I have once again turned my after work attention to the mechanical aspects. My first valve grinding with the proper equipment. About half cleaned up right away with just the 45 degree angle and a 3/32" seat, and the other half needed the 30 degree top cut. I'm using nors 8ba exhaust valves and guides. Just to check my work I am lapping them in very lightly. Hoping to use the new ball hone and then drill my tappet bores this weekend and final clean and paint before assembly. I bought a really long 1/8" drill bit and the same in 3/16". Which one should I use?

 

[51504bat]

With 4 doors hung and no more maple for a while, I have once again turned my after work attention to the mechanical aspects. My first valve grinding with the proper equipment. About half cleaned up right away with just the 45 degree angle and a 3/32" seat, and the other half needed the 30 degree top cut. I'm using nors 8ba exhaust valves and guides. Just to check my work I am lapping them in very lightly. Hoping to use the new ball hone and then drill my tappet bores this weekend and final clean and paint before assembly. I bought a really long 1/8" drill bit and the same in 3/16". Which one should I use?

Red's Headers site says 5/32"

 

[GB SISSON]

Red's Headers site says 5/32"

Figures... I know it's good to use a long bit. I remember last time I did this with a jobber length bit and it was hard to get a good angle on it down low. Anyone chime in on which would be better? I suppose I could order in the right one, but weekend is coming right up.

 

[GB SISSON]

Having just read a recent thread about a woodie rear fender and a gas door, is that how I should introduce gas into my future tank? Through a trap door in a rear fender?Being a truck, I can live with a visible gas cap as well. I'm using '42-47 pickup rear fenders. Also any advice on what to use for a fuel tank and how/where to mount it between the frame rails. I'd like to use something common I can find in a wrecking yard if possible. Thanks. Hoping to work on door latches as it's above freezing today in my unheated shop. My engine is coming along, but slower than I would like. I got my re-drilled flywheel back and maybe it goes on today after we go cut down a tree in the woods.

 

[51504bat]

Having just read a recent thread about a woodie rear fender and a gas door, is that how I should introduce gas into my future tank? Through a trap door in a rear fender?Being a truck, I can live with a visible gas cap as well. I'm using '42-47 pickup rear fenders. Also any advice on what to use for a fuel tank and how/where to mount it between the frame rails. I'd like to use something common I can find in a wrecking yard if possible. Thanks. Hoping to work on door latches as it's above freezing today in my unheated shop. My engine is coming along, but slower than I would like. I got my re-drilled flywheel back and maybe it goes on today after we go cut down a tree in the woods.

Check out a mid '60's Mustang or Cougar tank. IIRC the Couger had a slightly different fill than the Mustang but I could be wrong. If a stock tank from a '39 p/u would work I've got one that I replaced with a new one from Drake. Still has the original sending unit in it. Don't know what condition it is inside since I got a good deal on the new Drake unit during one of his 20% off free plus shipping Black Friday Deals a couple of years ago and he actually had it in stock. Still have the box Drake shipped it in so shipping would be easy or if my son gets a new job in Seattle I could probably bring it when we help move him north. Anyway, the tank is just taking up room in the shop and its yours if you think it will work. FWIW the truck was running fine when I took the tank out.

 

[GB SISSON]

Was it originally mounted under the seat? Not sure I want it in the cab if that's so. Plus how to fill with 4 doors? Thinking the mustang /cougar route might be best. Does the mustang type fit between the rear frame rails? Thanks for the offer and It would be great to meet you if you are out this way!

 

[41panelmark]

With summer winding down I got some time today to work on the passenger side front door. I decided to get a few pictures of this process. Once again I drilled out the hinge rivets in a rotten pickup truck door to use as woodie hinges. I had to weld up some of the holes I didn't need and drill and countersink the rest for #14 wood screws. I mortised them into my laminated maple front door stiles and re-drilled the hinges for oversized pins. The pins are made from an old screwdriver I got at a yard sale. I will be welding thick washers on for heads for these new pins. As on the driver's side I am assembling this door within it's opening because of the twisted shape as it mates into the cowl. The rear stile was milled to fit the door jamb and held with a temporary screw to hold it in place. Tomorrow after work I plan to rout the vertical grooves that hold the panels as well as the mahogany marine plywood splines that join the door parts together with the 3m 5200 marine adhesive/sealant and hardened star drive construction lags. With a spline as opposed to Henry's mortise and tenon, both horizontal and vertical members have a 3/8 x 3/4" deep groove and a 1 1/2" strip of marine plywood is inserted and glued in with the 5200. Strong and resilient joint, but tough to pull apart to repair.....It feels good to be back at it!

Geese GB, you are talented for sure.

 

[51504bat]

Was it originally mounted under the seat? Not sure I want it in the cab if that's so. Plus how to fill with 4 doors? Thinking the mustang /cougar route might be best. Does the mustang type fit between the rear frame rails? Thanks for the offer and It would be great to meet you if you are out this way!

'39 p/u tank is at the far rear of the frame. Fills from the drivers side rear fender.

 

[GB SISSON]

'39 p/u tank is at the far rear of the frame. Fills from the drivers side rear fender.

Then this could be perfect! I remembered on my '38 tonner pickup it was under the seat so I thought the '39 pickup would be the same. I have no problem with adding a hole to my fender.

 

[RalphM]

Most of the details of this body were based on the 40-41 wagon, and that radius looks really good on that body. Mine would never have the same flowing line as on the ford built body because of the offset from the rear post. If I were to do that radius I may settle for the square cornered windows on the back. So much less work, and I have miles to go yet. edit: After posting these pics, I see they could also be used in the dark panel/blonde panel debate.....

Gentlemen prefer blondes!
And so do I, the blonde woody looks so much better to me.

 

[GB SISSON]

Gentlemen prefer blondes!
And so do I, the blonde woody looks so much better to me.

Well Ralph, I am sorta leaning that way. In the end we all do our rigs how we want, unless we are following the rule book for judging at shows. In the case of blonde vs brunette, I see woodies that have been built both ways, either factory jobs or custom one offs. Dang I didn't get door handles done today. Family situation arose. Gol dang kids..... Don't ask.

 

[flatford8]

GB.......I have parts for a '37 pickup and the gas filler is between the fender and the rear of the bed. Can't remember if it's passenger side or drivers.......Mark

 

[GB SISSON]

Thanks guys once again. I did make some progress over the weekend. Most was on door handles/latches. I decided to go with Toyota Landcruiser pre-'75 door latches mated to ford pickup outer door handles. The square shaft is the same size but sits as a diamond shape at rest on the toyota side. Nothing I can't fix. I decided to weld a narrow flange to the toyota latch mechanism so I can screw to the edge of the door as well. This latch has an inside handle that operates direct on the mechanism with no linkage. A bit cumbersome to operate for old stiff folks, but all in all, they look and operate like something one would have chosen back in the 40s for a one off commercial vehicle. Besides I had two in my attic and located two more for 22 bucks each, and they are very solidly built for hard off road work. I labored over the decision to mount the handles about 2 1/2" below the belt line like on a '40-'41 woodie instead of in line with it like a '46-'47. This Frankenwoodie body looks a lot more like a '40-'41 so I opted for the former. With more grandchildren coming along than you can shake a stick at, this location will also be easier for them to reach. I have 3 ford jailbar pickup handles, but some are stainless and some are painted pot metal. I think the stainless ones are '42s? I know I will need dovetails on all doors and that should be rather straightforward. The engine continues to progress as well.

 

[Mart]

It looks great, GB, that rear 3/4 view is spot on.

Mart.