Truck based woody

[GB SISSON]

Thank you both. Not sure how many days we have left to hope for really hot weather here in the Northwest. In some ways it wouldn't matter if I didn't do the roof until next summer. I certainly don't plan on leaving it outside in the weather. Bill, can you tell me what goes on before the vinyl? I feel as a commercial type vehicle it wouldn't need padding for a plush look, just what's needed to wear well on the slats and maybe if the long grain vinyl is white on the underside I would rather see brown or black muslin or burlap whatever. The very next task at hand is the passenger side front door. And Bill I just saw your pm with Leonardos phone # Thanks!

 

[Bill]

I used white flannel as an underlay material and I taped it in place. Flannel must come in a variety of colors take yer pick. Taped in place rather than stapled will avoid staple and or nails from showing thru tight roofing material. I would recommend that 2" wide red cello tape sold at building supply stores. Maybe by next year Lebaron will have access to the 66"wide material... Bill

 

[GB SISSON]

With summer winding down I got some time today to work on the passenger side front door. I decided to get a few pictures of this process. Once again I drilled out the hinge rivets in a rotten pickup truck door to use as woodie hinges. I had to weld up some of the holes I didn't need and drill and countersink the rest for #14 wood screws. I mortised them into my laminated maple front door stiles and re-drilled the hinges for oversized pins. The pins are made from an old screwdriver I got at a yard sale. I will be welding thick washers on for heads for these new pins. As on the driver's side I am assembling this door within it's opening because of the twisted shape as it mates into the cowl. The rear stile was milled to fit the door jamb and held with a temporary screw to hold it in place. Tomorrow after work I plan to rout the vertical grooves that hold the panels as well as the mahogany marine plywood splines that join the door parts together with the 3m 5200 marine adhesive/sealant and hardened star drive construction lags. With a spline as opposed to Henry's mortise and tenon, both horizontal and vertical members have a 3/8 x 3/4" deep groove and a 1 1/2" strip of marine plywood is inserted and glued in with the 5200. Strong and resilient joint, but tough to pull apart to repair.....It feels good to be back at it!

 

[RalphM]

Boy, that's going to be a beaut. when. Your done with it.

 

[jerseyboy]

GB I love your use of found objects! You make this look so easy.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!

 

[GB SISSON]

Had some family stuff tonight but here's where I got to last night. Still working up the joinery while there's a straight edge here and there, tomorrow I will scribe the curves and cut them out on the bandsaw before assembling the door. The bottom rail will be shaped with power plane and belt sander to conform to the cowl's curves and one more lift of 3/8" maple will be applied to the front stile and overlapped slightly forward to create the rabbet in the door top and edge. Pretty much just as you saw for the driver's door, but thought I'd get detail shots this time.

 

[Bill]

Love the BUZZ in pic#4. Bet you can juggle four balls... Good luck Bill

 

[GB SISSON]

The perimeter of the door shaped and glued up with it's joinery in the opening. I used to think I might like to build a few of these in 'semi-retirement'. Trying to build this in my time off has been a stretch, particularly when I do woodwork all day long.

 

[GB SISSON]

Got that last door hung. It isn't completely done by a long shot, but it's as done as the other 3. Now I need to think about barn doors vs tailgate. That might wait til spring while I do some mechanical work on it for a change of pace.

 

[jerseyboy]

GB,

Beautiful! I vote barn doors! They will be unique and fit the look of the truck.

 

[GB SISSON]

GB,

Beautiful! I vote barn doors! They will be unique and fit the look of the truck.

There are some woodie owners here that suggest barn doors may seal better than a tailgate/liftgate against the exhaust fumes that seem to suck into a wagon's tail end. Need more maple to do either and my supplier doesn't deliver to the island for another ten days or so. The barn doors are growing on me.

 

[flatford8]

If your taking votes...... make mine for Barn Doors.... it just seems more traditional for a truck than a tailgate and hatch. Your doing a great job and I cant wait till you take us all for a ride... Mark

 

[truckdog62563]

If it mattered (it doesn't), my view would be to have a traditional tailgate and hatch. Stu

 

[Newc]

Hi all; Brand X suburbans had both types and the barn doors did seal better and tighter. Newc

 

[GB SISSON]

Hi all; Brand X suburbans had both types and the barn doors did seal better and tighter. Newc

I have had a few burbs with the barn doors. Ok, I still have one. Easier loading on the costco runs to the mainland too. And yes, I'm taking votes but with all the poll hacking by the Russians, I can't be held to any strict guidelines. I was going to do a sketch and maybe I can scan it.

 

[KGS]

GB, Just another option. I've had barn doors; hatch lid with a tail gate and the one I have now, hatch back without a flop down tail gate. Hinged at the top. Swings high and makes a nice sun shade/umbrella. Allows you to reach way inside to retrieve the groceries and you don't bang your thighs on any sharp edge
Love the project and your craftsmanship!
Ken

 

[PeteVS]

For what it's worth, barn doors allow an easier reach into the cargo bay. Cargo doesn't have to be lifted past the tailgate going in or out.

 

[Bill]

No question a liftgate with woodgrained gas lift cylnders is the most functional but you know that ain't happenin'! Go with barn doors and give the windows some style.... Bill

 

[GB SISSON]

No question a liftgate with woodgrained gas lift cylnders is the most functional but you know that ain't happenin'! Go with barn doors and give the windows some style.... Bill

Funny, in the last set of photos I had added a triangle of plywood with a radiused corner in the upper rear corner of the rear side window. I was gonna ask if I should do this in maple like the '47 ford woodies. I know the ford built corner is sawn in and mitered. Then all the while when I think about barn doors I wonder if the two windows should have radiused corners. Henry's wagon lift gate never did. I know the windows need to be big, as my tonner panel's back windows are way too small.

 

[GB SISSON]

Here's my sketch. It makes a lot of sense to me. What a small time local builder would opt for? Glass is cheap with square corners... Woodwork is basically the same as a house door, not a chris craft or a steinway. Windows look big. This is the first sketch I have done for any part of the woodie. The Seattle architects I work with always want 'shop drawings'. I have no drawing board, no cad program, or anything resembling that. One time I mailed the 'shop drawings' we use back to a Seattle firm. They were all on scraps of 1/4" plywood and wouldn't fit through the slot on my fax machine. It feels great to be getting old and not care what the yuppie architects think about how I operate...... Well I think I have to get the sketch out of a pdf?? Details at eleven... edit: If someone can make this sketch right side up and appear without a link, have at it, I give up.....