Truck based woody

GB... Thats looking real good.... Sorry I couldn't come through with the rubber roofing..... Just so followers of this thread understand, I had promised some rubber roofing for the top of his Woody but the pieces I had were to small and the one that was big enough had some holes right in the middle. Again, sorry it didn't work out..... Mark
 
Mark, it's the fact you were willing to pass it along that counts. It is amazing to me how FTE and Fordbarners have ralleyed to send me parts they weren't using for their projects. I got an email today from a friend who retired from woodworking and offered me some beautiful veneers he had squirreled away. Last week a client who we built cabinets for decided he'd never use the new bandsaw he'd bought and asked if I wanted it. It's like a reverse tornado on Mt. Pickett.... Good stuff just lands here. My 4 kids all live in Seattle and love to come up for July 4th weekend and the parade, so for father's day I got to spend the day cleaning and organizing the shops and then rolling out the woodie for it's first light of day. I had never been able to step back and look at it since I started it. I did some fairing of the roof structure and corners because the natural shadows showed where there were flat spots and bumps. Was a great afternoon to have a couple beers and just sit for a while, feeling like I had made good progress on a lifelong dream. Thanks for all of your continued support. It means a lot to me to have so many friends sharing the build with me.
 

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A thing of beauty is a joy forever! Mark & GB don't worry about the rubber roofing,if you know roofers,they'll give you what you need.Remember to use MP1 to hold it down,it's the best thing since sliced bread!
 
GB,

Your wagon looks terrific! It looks like it rolled off the Iron Mountain Line!

I don't know how soon you need the rubber, but my dad has some laying around.
I'll check how much. How thick and wide does the roll need to be?

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
 
Well I had to pretty much take the summer off. We are still feeling the effects of the recession in the building trades and we got a couple of really nice cabinet jobs and decided we better take on both of them. That, and my daughter got married here two weeks ago and the place needed a lot of work. Now I'm working on the front doors. I am assembling the driver's door on the car. It can't be built flat on the bench because it has a complex shape and there are no plans, patterns or an old door to copy. I have most of the pieces made for both front doors and I figure it will take a week of 'after work' time to complete each one. Nothing real photo-worthy yet, but by the weekend there should be. Thanks for checking in. It feels good to be back at it.
 
flatford8 said:
I too noticed we hadn't heard from you in awhile but, I remembered last spring you said you were going to be busy. Can't wait till we can all go for a ride.... Mark
Click to expand...

I'll pick you up on my way through Maine. Back in the mid 70s I worked at the HR Hinckley Co in Southwest Harbor for a couple of years. Is Lyman where the Lyman motor boats came from?
 
We're about 10miles inland from Kennebunkport. Ive been here since '64 and I never knew of anybody building boats. It used to be a little one horse town but...... that horse died along time ago. LOL.... Keep us all updated.... This has been one of the best threads going.... Mark
 
Well, I said I was starting on the front doors. I don't really see roll up windows, maybe sliders like on the old mini coopers. I will see how thick they end up with inside panels and what I can scrounge for mechanisms. I used hinges from rotted out pickup doors and drilled and countersunk for wood screws. The pins were worn so I redrilled to 9/64" and used a shank from a craftsman #2 phillips screwdriver for my new pins. Welded heavy washers on for a head. Next I mortised the hinges into my laminated door stiles and made the front stile open and close. I pretty much built the door in the opening because of the weird shape. I have now added the final lamination of 3/8" maple onto the door's forward and top faces, leaving about 5/8" overhang to fit into the pickup cowl's recess. Next I will have to rout in the dado for the panels and to spline in the belt line with a 'T' cutter wheel in the router. After this much work I know I'll have to have a touch of 'the recipe' to steady my hands and my nerves this afternoon. There is no going back with that slot cutter. I could have (maybe should have) routed much of this first but I never know how I'm doing anything until I get there. When this latest lamination dries I will re-hang in the opening and see how I did. Stay tuned.
 

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Photos of door hung in frame. The floating tenons for joinery will allow me good alignment of the belt line and other horizontal rails.
 

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jerseyboy said:
GB,

Your wagon looks terrific! It looks like it rolled off the Iron Mountain Line!

I don't know how soon you need the rubber, but my dad has some laying around.
I'll check how much. How thick and wide does the roll need to be?

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
Click to expand...

The distance side to side is 63 1/2". I figure I need something to hold onto below that, so maybe 66" x 10'. I am also looking into long grain vinyl top material. Lebarron Bonney's is 63" wide and I cant see this working. I am going to call some places today. Looks like a Model T place has it in 64" wide. I plan to hold it down on the edges with a J metal drip rail like used on RVs. I will paint the aluminum rail a dull black and attach it with screws. It will take over the line of the factory drip rail where I cut the cab off. Anyone have a suggestion on finding the long grain in a 66" width? I have checked on Google. And Jerseyboy, thanks for the offer. I am keeping my options open and look forward to hearing back on what you might have. Thanks
 
Gary
Have you considered Rhino Liner. I will say it is a very good product. They use a making tape with a wire embedded to make a straight edge.
Bruce
 
But my roof is slatted. About 1/4" between slats. I could see using canvas like an old boat deck and rhino that. Can't help but think the compound corners in the rear would be really difficult. I saw a couple of woodies up close lately and really like the linear grain of the long grain vinyl. I feel I could grain some rubber roof material with a stiff brush, but what if....? The vinyl would be a sure thing. Narrowest I have found is 54" wide and I'd need 20' with a center seam. 525.00 plus shipping :eek:
 
Well I got the door roughed in tonight after work. Panels are in temporary and the header over the left rear side window is lined up. I have noticed how the door gaps change when I pull the truck outside on uneven ground. Even when my slow leaker right rear tire loses air things change. I will leave them alone until I get the engine/****** installed because that may affect door gaps as well. Struck out today trying to find 66" wide roof material on the phone. Nothing is easy on this....
 

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GB, It looks sooo nice! I will not be able to check what my dad has until mid September. Hope you can wait or you find something better in the meantime. I'll let you know as soon as I can.

Keep V-8ing and 4-banging!
 
So, I tapped my sources at Lebarron Bonney they tell me that long grain vinyl is made in 66" width only it's on back order with no delivery date in sight. I reached out to Leanardo in Ca. who told me that he can provide and ship 64'' material. He went on to say that the 64'' long grain material will stretch if it is warmed up. Also remember that you will gain a wee bit as your drip rail will cover about 3/4 '' on each side. I will PM you his # if you want to speak to him directly. He does high end interiors but don't let that intimidate you.
The secret to the install is to lay your material out in the bright sun and let it get hot. I mean really HOT. Then start from the back and with at least 2/4 helpers start pulling as tight as possible. Fit one corner and tack with copper nails up half an inch from the edge.Space them out about 4" and work up the side about a foot. Then pull tight and do the other corner. At this point the material should be tight across the rear header. The hardest part is now done. Keep pulling hard and toward the front and watch to see that no ripples/folds develop. Tack as you go every 4" or so. Keep your help pulling for all they're worth and the top will be tight as a drum. 30 years later mine is still great. Good luck. Bill
 
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