Trailer winch

HalcyonDays

HalcyonDays

Senior Member
I just purchased an enclosed trailer for hauling my Model A around. I would like to install an electric winch to pull the car onto the trailer. Looking at the options and brand choices i am overwhelmed. I think I want one with a wireless remote, but unsure of brand to buy or lifting ability. Any thoughts on this would be great.


Thanks
 
I have a small Warn in my trailer. 2000 lb capacity, I think. Maybe one size bigger? You don't need 10k lbs to roll a car into the trailer. Consider a synthetic cable instead of metal, if your installation won't drag the cable over abrasive parts of the trailer. You'll also need a battery if your trailer doesn't already have one. Lastly, put a good sized metal plate underneath the trailer floor where you install the winch to spread the load.

I have winches on both my open and enclosed trailers. I haven't needed then often, but they are a lifesaver when I do.
 
I mounted a 3,500 lb. ATV winch(12volt) and a 1,500 lb. Warn 120 volt winch in my enclosed trailer when I moved. I had electricity where I loaded and where I unloaded, so I only used the 120 volt winch. I moved 2 Model A’s and 4 Camaros, which it pulled with ease. The 12 volt was my backup and I had used that on my open trailer. It also worked fine for loading rolling cars.
 
I use Harbor Freight's wireless remote 2500lb. Works great for a sale price of $60. I put 1/4" backing plate on bottom side of floor.
 
I also suggest the Harbor Freight. We use the 5000 lb winch in two of our trailers, -and both have done well. We use the remote as well. The only thing I don't care for with the HF remote is there is a slight delay when you release the button until the winch actually shuts-off.

The other recommendation I would make is to 'lose' the wire winch cable and purchase the ¼" synthetic rope to replace the cable. We use the 10k rated cable like THESE and they are awesome at protecting your hands from cuts when handling the cable, and it makes wadding up the cable a breeze when you have winched-out the car and don't want to reel the cable back in at that moment.

And, while you are at it, we have had very good luck with these type of Ratchet Straps which include the tie-back axle straps along with separate axle straps.
 
I use an enclosed 8000# Warn winch with a remote and synthetic rope on my open tilt bed trailer. I also have an assortment of shackles and a turning block to extract dead cars from hard to get to spots. I've had the Warn for 30 years and after using an ATV winch on an ATV, I wouldn't bother with anything under 5000#.
 
This isn't what the OP asked about, but will throw it into the mix anyway. I had an old junk boat trailer with a good winch, so I mounted it in our enclosed car trailer. I can hand crank a car into the trailer with little effort. My doctor says I need to exercise more, because it's good for the heart.
 

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Thank you for all of the input. I ended up buying a Bulldog model 15020R2 #4400 winch from a local supplier. It cam with a wired remote w/ 20' of line and 1/4" synthetic rope. A wireless remote is available for an additional charge ($50.). I purchased from amazon the tie downs Brent had recommended.



The trailer has a 4'x4'x1' hatch/storage box in the floor located centered toward the front under about where the engine on the model a will sit. Currently there is a spare tire there with plenty of room to spare. My question is should I mount the battery box there? or outside the trailer on the tongue ?
 
If you mount it in the spare compartment, put it in a marine battery box and run a vent tube from the marine box to the outside air. Probably 1 1/2”- 2” tubing for the vent.
 
An inside battery location might be a PITA if you can't get to it with the trailer loaded and the battery takes a dump. JMO.
 
I am thinking the outside location may be best. Battery acid and vapors cannot be good and most trailers I have seen have the box outside. It would be so easy to mount it inside, but where is the fun in that. Thanks again
 
Steve,

I use a ComeUp winch with a wireless remote, synthetic rope/cable and the 12V battery box mounted on the front wall inside the trailer (to prevent the battery from getting stolen, no extra holes through the trailer walls/floors and easy to keep clean underneath the box). The battery is located near a 110V wall plug (in the trailer), making it super easy to keep charged up (with a battery tender for example) when the trailer is attached to a land-line for electricity.

The nice thing about the ComeUp winch is that the entire winch, mechanism, cabling, etc is all fully enclosed in a nice clean looking, compact, light-weight, corrosion resistant case. The wireless remote makes loading a car very easy and allows you to move freely around (or sit inside) the car to monitor the winching process.

Here is a photo of my set-up, mounted inside the V-nose of my enclosed trailer:
488914


Brad in Maryland
 

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Brad thank you for the photo. That is a beautiful setup. Where did you get the bracket that attaches to the wall for the battery? I am re-thinking setting it up inside the trailer
 
HalcyonDays said:
Brad thank you for the photo. That is a beautiful setup. Where did you get the bracket that attaches to the wall for the battery? I am re-thinking setting it up inside the trailer
Click to expand...

I ordered the wall mounted battery bracket through the company that built my trailer. You can get them however through Summit Racing for example or even on Amazon. Just do a search for "battery boxes and trays" and then select the one that fits the deep cycle battery that you will use to power your winch.

I put the battery in a plastic battery box to give it a clean look (and to contain any leak/residue that might form on the battery), but it still allows easy access to the battery terminals to hook up a battery tender. My battery also powers the LED strip lighting that I installed along the ceiling edges (the LED lighting power leads are buried in the wall and exit the wall in back of the battery box).

Here you can see where I mounted the battery on the wall above the winch (and under the spare tire) in the front, V-nose of the trailer......with the LED strip lighting along the ceiling edges:
488950


Brad in Maryland
 

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Brad in Germany said:
I ordered the wall mounted battery bracket through the company that built my trailer. You can get them however through Summit Racing for example or even on Amazon. Just do a search for "battery boxes and trays" and then select the one that fits the deep cycle battery that you will use to power your winch.

I put the battery in a plastic battery box to give it a clean look (and to contain any leak/residue that might form on the battery), but it still allows easy access to the battery terminals to hook up a battery tender. My battery also powers the LED strip lighting that I installed along the ceiling edges (the LED lighting power leads are buried in the wall and exit the wall in back of the battery box).

Here you can see where I mounted the battery on the wall above the winch (and under the spare tire) in the front, V-nose of the trailer......with the LED strip lighting along the ceiling edges:
488950


Brad in Maryland
Click to expand...

Looks like an “Aluma” trailer, built in Iowa?
 
I realize the OP already bought a winch.
But others may be looking for a winch
and advice on how to mount & the battery.

Weight rating is important
But line speed is also important
Some winches have too fast of a speed
A wireless remote is also a must

Harbor Freight is the best choice.
If you seldom use your winch
then there is no need to have a
12VDC permanent battery

You can charge one up and
put it in the trailer when you
are going to need a winch


Jim
 
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