Tire Pressure

Also for oldtimers tirepressure advice is all about load on tire and speed you drive.
So if you can produce car weight in use and best weighed per wheel, and of tires if diagonal or radial, maximumm load or loadindex, Needed pressure for that wich is not the maximum allowed cold pressure , and called maxloadpressure/referencepressure/AT-pressure, and is related to the loadrange, mostly given on sidewall. Then I can calculate a save lowest pressure or one with some reserve but no bumping.

Also need maximum speed of tire and that you use and wont go over for even a minute.

Try to produce this and I will calculate.

Greatings from A Dutch Pigheaded Selfdeclared tirepressure-specialist.
Peter

And nice hollidays and a good 2016 from the other side of the ocean.
 
Ford Explorer tire issue, we were a small dealer and never had one of the issues. What I remember was Firestone wanted higher pressures to keep tires cooler, but, Ford wanted a good ride and thought lower pressure would help with the roll issue. If I remember correctly they/Ford wanted 26#. We set them higher and didn't have a problem/complaint with vehicle or tires.

Its funny how these threads take on a life of their own.
 

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I have them on my wifes car with custom wheels and chrome valve stems. Have had many problems with the stems. So it is an easy and quick way for my wife to make sure the tires stay at 30 lbs and avoid a valve stem failure on the road. As they normally leak some for a while before failing completely. Rod
 
I owned one of the explorers in the tire failure era. It had 26 psi rating on door post which I thought was to low. I think Ford did not take into account that the majority of the owners do not check tire air pressure. Ford was trying to make a softer ride by using a cheap fix. I increased my psi to 26 and had a rough ride. If you start at 32 psi and don't check tires for a year some were riding on 12 psi tires. If you are riding on 12 psi tire + 120 degree road temp +70 to 80 mph = blow out and roll over. Newer explorers have wider track and IRS. Dwayne
 
wrong numbers on my first post , should be raised psi to 35 and had hard ride also when you start with 26 psi and don't check for a year some can be riding on 12 psi. In my 29 special A special coupe I use 35 psi in 450x21 tires.
 
You're using low tire pressure as a "ad hoc" bandaid for a bad front end. Why not jack the car up and find out what's loose and tighten or repair it? Just suppose that part is so worn that it's near to breaking? I wish you lived nearby, I'd be glad to help you Identify the problem.
Terry


mcorrell said:
I run 30 psi in my 4.50 x 21 tires. The car doesn't wander near as much as when I was running 35 psi. Someone on this site recommended the 30 psi to me. I use a good quality 0-60 psi gauge that correlates well with the TPMS system on my new F150
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The TPMS system on my Aviator always warns of low pressure when it is cold (like 20* or less) until I drive it for several miles and warm up the tires.
 
CarlG said:
The TPMS system on my Aviator always warns of low pressure when it is cold (like 20* or less) until I drive it for several miles and warm up the tires.
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Curious.
Does this monster tell you what the tire pressure is at each corner ? [ I'm thinking no ].
Have you tried bumping the pressure up a few pounds ?
 
CarlG said:
The TPMS system on my Aviator always warns of low pressure when it is cold (like 20* or less) until I drive it for several miles and warm up the tires.
Click to expand...

Your door sticker prob says 26 so yes at 20 your light will come on until the tires heat up to 21 or more... Your running the pressures to low...26 is to low I would go 32 cold
 
I know the steering box needs rebuilt as the pitman shaft has a lot of play. The rest of the steering and suspension seem fine. The steering box seems to appear as low speed death wobble and of coarse excessive play. When I speak of wander I am referring to something similar to bump steer from roadway input.
Hopefully I can taker care of the steering box this spring and then go from there. I've no doubt there's other issues to find but is the juice worth the squeeze for a car driven a few hundred miles a year?
 
A bad steering box will do that, Death wobble. Both my roadable cars have had bad steering boxes that caused this. Once I rebuilt them, it subsided quite a bit, but not entirely. It turns out that I needed a king pin, and spring shackle bushings and perches and something else which I can't recall now.
Now I have tight steering steering systems in both cars and the cars are much more fun to drive.
Terry



mcorrell said:
I know the steering box needs rebuilt as the pitman shaft has a lot of play. The rest of the steering and suspension seem fine. The steering box seems to appear as low speed death wobble and of coarse excessive play. When I speak of wander I am referring to something similar to bump steer from roadway input.
Hopefully I can taker care of the steering box this spring and then go from there. I've no doubt there's other issues to find but is the juice worth the squeeze for a car driven a few hundred miles a year?
Click to expand...
 
Rowdy is correct about tire shop gorillas and air impact wrenches. First question I ask tire shop is how do you mount the tires on the vehicle and some look at you like you are dumb. Go around and watch to see how the shops put the wheels on. It they just use just air impact wrenches leave the shop. Do not care if they are cheaper, just will not deal with them. There is a torque spec for the lug bolts, but a lot of places ignore them and if you ever have to change a flat, forget it with the tools in the vehicle. Also the trick of using never seize on the surface between lug bolts and aluminum rims is good for places that use salt on the roads as the two surfaces will weld together due to electrolysis.
I use 35 lbs in my A for front and back on 4.50 x 21 tires.
 
Just to be clear, do not use anti-seize on lug stud threads. I was mainly referring to the 1/4" screws uses to hold the center cap on with some custom wheels. After the last trip to the tire shop I will now have to drill out the broken screw and install a thread-sert to put the center cap back on. A little anti-seize on the threads of the screw likely would have prevented this. Rod
 
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