My 31 sport coupe started to run a little poorly. The problem seemed to be either trash in the carborator or an electrial problem of some sort. I began with the electrical by cleaning and gapping plugs, checking the wiring on the and conditon of the (modern) upper and lower plates, filing and gapping the points, and finally timing (twice) with a NU-REX wrench. The problem now is that the timing seems to be too advanced. The engine will start just fine at full retard but will die (at idle) before reaching full advance. When running the car I keep it at full retard until 30mph +/- then advance two or three clicks. I recently had new babbets poured and the engine was running fine. Any ideas on what could be causing the advaced idle and possible solutions.
timing too advaced
- Thread starter scmsr
- Start date
pat in Santa Cruz
Well-known member
did you set the timing on the wrong side of the cam? that would advance it way too far. The cam rotates counter clockwise. Set timing on the lead side of the cam. Follow Marco's instructions here:
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
or these:
http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
or these:
http://modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
1931 flamingo
Well-known member
The NU-Rex wrench is prety fool proof. I'm wondering if the timing marks are correct after the rebuild??
Paul in CT
Paul in CT
I turned to tdc using the divit, looked a #1 and it looked like tdc but had to tell. I think close enough that it is probably correct tdc. Timed with the new-wrench and the points were opened to .019. Then I used the manual method by Barn Yard. Now the car runs like it should. The nu-wrench is not noticable bent, can it be that the distrutor body is in an incorrect positon causing the nu-wrench not to work. I don't know enough about how the distributor body is installed to know if that is possible
700rpm
Well-known member
The distr. has a locating pin on the bottom that fits into the head. Once fitted, it's in the right place and shouldn't move if you've got your locknut cinched up firmly.
Tom Wesenberg
Well-known member
As Ray said, the intermediate and distributor shafts have offset tangs and notches so they fit together only one way. The screw on the side of the head should just touch the distributor, then tighten the lock nut.
When the engine is first put together the cam and crank gears must be lined up, but the distributor drive gear can go anywhere on the cam gear. You just loosen the points cam screw and turn the rotor to set the spark timing.
BTW, if you only have one shaft on the distributor, it would be better to replace it with the correct 2 piece shaft.
Here's a worn out tang.
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Pardy Swoft has the best and simplest way to time an A model, I think he said:
With the timing pin in [TDC], the rear edge of the rotor tip alines with the rear edge of #1 spark plug contact. with no backlash..... [set the point's to 0.22]. It work's great for me.
If Im wrong, someone please correct me.
With the timing pin in [TDC], the rear edge of the rotor tip alines with the rear edge of #1 spark plug contact. with no backlash..... [set the point's to 0.22]. It work's great for me.
If Im wrong, someone please correct me.