thermostats

Did Ford put thermostats in the early V8s?

Be a little difficult to operate them without them! The originals were a lower temp (160 I think) because of the types of antifreeze in use. The operating temps were increased over the years to improve efficiency.

Update: The Green Book shows the early thermostats were as low as 140 deg!
 
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Older thermostats were a barrel style, completely different. Here is an example of one type.

I have an spare thermostat housing for my G model SIX.. this "barrel" type of thermostat is wedged inside.. how do you get them out? Or is it stuck because of years of corrosion.. IDK.. I haven't soaked it yet.. :eek:
 
Somehow I thought there were no thermostats in the v8s until 1937. I've been driving my 33 since 1970 without any - seems to work ok. What is the Ford part number for them?
 
Here's an example of the old ones. Ed
 

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I'm not the person to respond to questions about original parts, LOL. That's a question for someone like Dave. Would sure be difficult to drive in northern climates, guess you could block the radiator off. Guess I can read a parts book. :) The original temps are a lot lower than I thought!!!! But again, that is related to the antifreeze used. Running an engine at low temps has many negatives, increased ware, less efficient lubrication, increased slug, lower engine output efficiency, etc. Automotive engines are heat engines and efficiency (energy put into the engine vs power output) is related to operating temperature. Any heat lost out of the engine is wasted energy. This is part of why internal combustion engines are so inefficient in general, raising the operating temperature helps. A good efficiency number would be 25%, most older engines are far less.
 

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I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me


Yeah, that's why EVERY internal combustion engine manufacturer in the world puts them in...because they are not needed. :confused:
 
I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me
If everything was truly up to snuff in your engine, the operating temperature would never get any where near what is should be. I had a stat stick open on my car and the temperature barely got up to 150. This is with a 276 cu in engine with a stock radiator and no pressure cap. I also have stock water pumps, no "high flow" stuff. Glad it works for you.
 
I tig welded a modern t/state to a short length of stainless exh tube and the just slipped them up in the top hoses.
lawrie
 
Hey I understand ya gotta work with what ya got. All our Flatty's are old blocks, yea most have been checked for cracks but ya never really know about the cooling internals. Some work great some not so much. Typically we don't find out til it's running in our cars. If ya get it working in the right range and gotta go without stat's to get there you go with it. If ya need an auxiliary electric, go with it. I pretty much run my Flatty only in warmer weather Spring, Summer, early Fall. I currently am running stat's & one side is giving me a PIA not opening half the time and I have to shut down and wack the housing with a big wooden screw driver handle to get it to open then fine till next shut down. Have had issues in the past with stat's sticking. IMO, and from my experience while they work when opening and closing properly great, but my experience is they frequently don't. I've run without & in the warmer weather mine comes up to temp just fine and stays in a nice operating zone ( 175 while at speeds & 200 in slow to stopped traffic. I will probably remove mine before my season begins (again) as I'm sick of seemingly always having some kind of an issue with stat's. A lot is written about Flatty's being cooling challenged.
 
My engine a 53 flathead.It is completely rebuilt,I'll say it again completely rebuilt and far from stock.Even got one of Bubbas 12 volt dizzys in it.I don't know everything about heating and cooling but have been in the plumbing and heating business for 50 years,put in my share of hydronic systems.My engine runs great without stats,course I don't drive the vehicle in the winter.All the gauges are new also.I guess there are those that know or think they know everything,but I'm not one of them.
 
Hey I understand ya gotta work with what ya got. All our Flatty's are old blocks, yea most have been checked for cracks but ya never really know about the cooling internals. Some work great some not so much. Typically we don't find out til it's running in our cars. If ya get it working in the right range and gotta go without stat's to get there you go with it. If ya need an auxiliary electric, go with it. I pretty much run my Flatty only in warmer weather Spring, Summer, early Fall. I currently am running stat's & one side is giving me a PIA not opening half the time and I have to shut down and wack the housing with a big wooden screw driver handle to get it to open then fine till next shut down. Have had issues in the past with stat's sticking. IMO, and from my experience while they work when opening and closing properly great, but my experience is they frequently don't. I've run without & in the warmer weather mine comes up to temp just fine and stays in a nice operating zone ( 175 while at speeds & 200 in slow to stopped traffic. I will probably remove mine before my season begins (again) as I'm sick of seemingly always having some kind of an issue with stat's. A lot is written about Flatty's being cooling challenged.
Amen
 
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