thermostats

The NAPA 111 stat may work great on early V8s, but is too small in diameter at 1.882" to work on late flatheads, were a diameter of 2.062" is about the minimum. A 170 stat is what I would like to run, but haven't found any to date.
 
The Stant stats are what I got for my truck and are 170's. I think I used Old Henry's recommendation, but didn't need to wire them in. When I get home I will look at the boxes mine came in and share them here. The ones I got from Shewman for my 39 sedan were 180s.
 
What gage is that wire? Do you trim it so that it stops short of the clamp (so it doesn't leak)?
Thanks!
 
I use Stant 160's. The engine runs at 175 degrees anyway; maybe 180 going up a steep hill. I hold the stats in-place with a one-inch high piece of cut radiator hose .... one-size smaller than the actual radiator hose itself. Filler does not inhibit water flow .... its the same inside and outside diameter as the cast iron head outlet on which the stat sits. Little rubber cement holds the rubber filler ring in place; no drilling needed; easy to change stats if needed.
 
V8 Bob said:
The NAPA 111 stat may work great on early V8s, but is too small in diameter at 1.882" to work on late flatheads, were a diameter of 2.062" is about the minimum. A 170 stat is what I would like to run, but haven't found any to date.
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If you need a 170 for the earlier motor, use a Beck-Arnley 143-0692 if you can still find them. They work great in two cars I have, they both run right at 170.
 
I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me
 
Joe Plumber raises a good point. Stats are beneficial to hasten the engine's warm-up. But some Yea and nay of it .... a stat slows the flow of coolant, which MAY allow the coolant to absorb more heat from the block, and yet some here like pumps that speed the flow (????) In my colder climate I vote for stats (of whatever rating) to get my heater working and oil thinned sooner, and a clean block and radiator for max efficiency.
 
joe plumber said:
I don't run any in my 53 flathead.When I did it always ran maxed the heat gauge out .Ihave a new radiator and 900 miles on a newly overhauled engine.I believe all one needs is a clean radiator and clean block.Works for me
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Maybe that works in California or wherever, but here in NJ the engine won't get up to operating temperature in the fall and winter months, and in the summer the temperature will creep up in traffic or waiting to get in or out of a car show. Every car for the last 70 years has come with thermostats, I don't see any reason why anyone wouldn't want to use them.
 
Automotive Stud said:
Maybe that works in California or wherever, but here in NJ the engine won't get up to operating temperature in the fall and winter months, and in the summer the temperature will creep up in traffic or waiting to get in or out of a car show. Every car for the last 70 years has come with thermostats, I don't see any reason why anyone wouldn't want to use them.
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I live in Nebraska.
 
I've got an 8BA in my 39 and I use 180 deg. Stant Superstats #45358. Without them, the temerature barely gets over 150. Not good.
 
How were the thermostats held in place originally? Were they a different style? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t with a couple copper wires wedged between the neck and the hose. I haven’t been able to make that work without a small leak where the wire is.
 
I run 180 degree thermostats.
Make sure to buy the ones that fail open. (Reverse popet- not many know the term.)
They are more $, well worth it against the price of damage from a closed inoperable one.

Karl
 
Otterby said:
How were the thermostats held in place originally? Were they a different style? I’m pretty sure it wasn’t with a couple copper wires wedged between the neck and the hose. I haven’t been able to make that work without a small leak where the wire is.
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Older thermostats were a barrel style, completely different. Here is an example of one type.
 

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I had the same problem. I had to cut the wires so that they didn't extend below the bottom of the clamp. It did correct my moving thermostat issue.
I think originally the thermostats were held in place by the way the hoses were molded.
I have seen old, original hoses that narrow just above where the thermostats sit in the head. I'm guessing, but it makes sense to me. The new aftermarket hoses (at least the ones I bought), are the same I.D. from end-to-end, so there's nothing to hold the thermostats in place.
 
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