There's paint under there!!!

5851a said:
msstring a friend of mine has a twin of your F3 and looks exactly the same. He has probably owned it 50 years. If you do decide to try scotch brite pads be aware they come in different grades of coarseness like sand paper. At my age and having experienced body shop jail a few times the rest of my rides will be patina. Nice truck.
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Thanks

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457642

Neat looking Ford Truck.
 
I'm parcel to cream color. But big trucks almost call out of a color that can take a little wear. Greys are always good too.


There is a few colors to choose from that are ford.
 
5851a said:
msstring a friend of mine has a twin of your F3 and looks exactly the same. He has probably owned it 50 years. If you do decide to try scotch brite pads be aware they come in different grades of coarseness like sand paper. At my age and having experienced body shop jail a few times the rest of my rides will be patina. Nice truck.
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"Body shop jail" is hilarious! If I attempted body work I would likely end up in Body shop prison. Life without parole. Metal work is hard. Give me wood work. Any chance you could post a pic or 2 of your friend's truck 5851A? Also very correct regarding scotch brite pads and coarsness.
 
alanwoodieman said:
the tv show garage squad did a F3 not many years ago, sprayed it with gloss clear and even the names on the door came out great
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What a coincidence. I'd seen that episode some time ago and by chance it was on again yesterday and watched again. Misstring, if you haven't seen it you might be able to stream it? Worth watching for your project in my opinion.
 
Don't be afraid of doing some metal work and paint. You could always make it mechanical safe and just run.




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Tinker said:
Don't be afraid of doing some metal work and paint. You could always make it mechanical safe and just run.




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That is exactly what I plan to do. I just out of a sort of fluke decided to try clearing around the gas fill tube hole and was shocked to see it turn gray! I literally had no idea there was any paint left on any exposed surface. So that took me into this thread. But still the plan is to drive it now and maybe make it prettier over time. I have no goals to make it a show truck but will continue to tinker as time and money allows. I may try some of the products and preservation measures shared here along the way.

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msstring said:
That is exactly what I plan to do. I just out of a sort of fluke decided to try clearing around the gas fill tube hole and was shocked to see it turn gray! I literally had no idea there was any paint left on any exposed surface. So that took me into this thread. But still the plan is to drive it now and maybe make it prettier over time. I have no goals to make it a show truck but will continue to tinker as time and money allows. I may try some of the products and preservation measures shared here along the way.

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Keep after it. This to me is an interesting thread. Hopefully whatever you do could be undone without trouble in the future should you decide your project needs to go a different direction. Where are you located? Sometimes that helps to know if there are other Barners in your area.
 
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Saw this done recently, car was cleaned /scrubbed with fast orange, results were incredible. Went from virtually no visible paint back to a presentable blue car.
 
Gary-UK said:
Saw this done recently, car was cleaned /scrubbed with fast orange, results were incredible. Went from virtually no visible paint back to a presentable blue car.
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Paint will always take away from the fun of driving. It's a big process. Best I'd say if you can have a car, have fun!!! and a you have another car then you can do another detailed rebuild. :)

Guess the the idea of a hotrod and a custom is not the worst idea. Drive the hotod while you are working on the custom. The original origin of the saying is, hotrods are for the guys, customs for the ladies. If that makes sense. Best of both worlds.
 
Just don't weld spiderwebs on it or put rubber rats on it. :) There is nothing to say that you can't fix a fender or anything else as time goes on. Really what hotrodding or building a car is about.
 
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Weak acids are great for paint/patina safe rust removal. Citric acid (the orange cleaner mentioned above), vinegar, and oxalic acid are good, just rinse well after and protect your eyes/skin.
 
Somewhere someone recommended Rust Mort. It works awesome! It devolves rust before your eyes! The instructions say to rinse with water after. But, now I have this white milky residue everywhere. Even on painted parts the got over spray from rinsing. Is there anything that will get rid of this white residue? I've tried dawn and the Totally Awesome mentioned in this thread, scrubbed with scotch pad, pressure washer. This white stuff is every where.

I also read, afterwards, that this needs to be top coatted right away. Is there non permanent protection I can put on temporarily?

In the pictures compare the grill and head light area with earlier pics in this thread. Huge difference. But, that was before I started rinsing and all the white stuff showed up.
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Steel wool and diesel fuel worked wonders on my Mercury. Plus a few hours of rubbing the old paint. It was badly oxidized from sitting outdoors for 40+ years and the paint is right down to the undercoat on the roof. But what paint is left cleaned up real nice. A little wax to finish it off plus some spray on varnish where it was down to bare metal and I'm really satisfied with the results.
 

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There is no permanent coating for rust. Rust is rust it'll keep going. You can rub it down and clear coat it. But it will bubble up through the clear in a few yrs.

You will continuously have to maintain it. That's okay. Using a product like ospho will turn the rust neutral. but it may effect the look you are going for and eventually it will rust. If you have really bad spots you could do that.

You could on surface rust wet sand it till it's almost gone and then coat it. But it will rust as it goes deeper then the paint.

Rust is slow. We are fast. Have fun and do what you can. You could probably every spring rub it down with motor oil too. But there is no nasa coating that will make our cars not rust when it's rusting better then motor oil.

Even if you do everything perfect and spend all the money. It will rust but maybe not in your lifetime. Doing something will be better then doing nothing though.
 
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Co-incidentally on this topic, I tried out "claybar" yesterday on a couple of vehicles. I've seen a lot of comments and watched a few videos on how it can rejuvenate an old oxidized paint job so wanted to see how it worked. I came to the conclusion that my vehicle's paint were not bad enough to see any actual results from claybar. On the 52 Merc I could feel the painted surface was slightly smoother and more slippery than when I started but appearance was no different. https://youtu.be/TUdeiDEUeUA
 

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Folks,
Interesting thread that I know has been discussed many time. Trying to think about the exterior actions on my 32 dump truck project. It has a lot of rust and some visible paint too. I have not even washed it yet. Mainly just old and lazy on this end!
Regards,
Chris
 
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