The new Burtz Mosel A engine
- Thread starter Jim Brierley
- Start date
Terry Burtz Calif
Senior Member
Pete,
Thanks for your comments.
With an iron or steel crankshaft, it is impossible to get enough counterweight to counteract the bending forces that occur at TDC when the connecting rod stops the piston, however for those that want more counterweight for events like land speed records, there is plenty of room to add tungsten or depleted uranium.
The problem with a heavy crankshaft is that it makes an engine sluggish with the added inertia and acceleration/deceleration becomes an issue.
Balance weights are separate from the crankshaft and do nothing to reduce stresses in the crankshaft.
Balance shafts reduce the inherent shaking that comes with a 4-cylinder engine. In the case of heavy equipment, balance shafts keep the machine from shaking itself apart and fretting damage.
Thanks for your comments.
With an iron or steel crankshaft, it is impossible to get enough counterweight to counteract the bending forces that occur at TDC when the connecting rod stops the piston, however for those that want more counterweight for events like land speed records, there is plenty of room to add tungsten or depleted uranium.
The problem with a heavy crankshaft is that it makes an engine sluggish with the added inertia and acceleration/deceleration becomes an issue.
Balance weights are separate from the crankshaft and do nothing to reduce stresses in the crankshaft.
Balance shafts reduce the inherent shaking that comes with a 4-cylinder engine. In the case of heavy equipment, balance shafts keep the machine from shaking itself apart and fretting damage.
Pete
BANNED
Terry Burtz Calif
Senior Member
Pete,
Thanks for your correction to my post.
Your assumption is correct where I meant to say "Balance shafts" instead of "Balance weights".
The "New Model A Engine Kit" may fool the fine point judges at MARC and MAFCA judging events, but is not intended to fool the judges at any speed or other events where a complete engine teardown is needed for certification.
Bonneville and other venues have a multitude of classes. Perhaps a new class will emerge for those that choose to run the "New Model A Engine Kit".
I agree that in your words this thread has been "hi-jacked", but your inputs are much needed and appreciated. Please continue to post with your comments. I read all posts and am continually revising the "Builders Guide" to make it better based on comments.
Terry Burtz
Thanks for your correction to my post.
Your assumption is correct where I meant to say "Balance shafts" instead of "Balance weights".
The "New Model A Engine Kit" may fool the fine point judges at MARC and MAFCA judging events, but is not intended to fool the judges at any speed or other events where a complete engine teardown is needed for certification.
Bonneville and other venues have a multitude of classes. Perhaps a new class will emerge for those that choose to run the "New Model A Engine Kit".
I agree that in your words this thread has been "hi-jacked", but your inputs are much needed and appreciated. Please continue to post with your comments. I read all posts and am continually revising the "Builders Guide" to make it better based on comments.
Terry Burtz
Secondary imbalance forces increase with the square of rpm. Counter-rotating balance shafts are essential in modern I-4 engines with short-stroke, higher-rpm architectures. Less so in a Model A engine's long-stroke, lower rpm world. There, piston speed becomes prodigious before the secondary imbalance forces become intolerable.
Russ/40
Well-known member
Ahhhhhhhhhhh, OKayyyyyyy
shew01
Well-known member
If I followed this correctly, I think it’s saying RPM is going to be a problem quicker than vibration will be a problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Vicky
Senior Member
We have finished our Burtz 5-Main Model A Engine, and installed it in our Victoria in preparation for the Great Race.
We also installed our Serr Miller Head on the engine, that also has a FSI Solid State Ignition, Brierley M-13 Cam, Stromberg 97 Carburetor (with #45. Jets), JE Pistons, and the Header for the Miller Head. I enclosed a picture of an original Model A Piston along with the piston we used for reference.
We have a started the Break-In process and have a little over 300 miles with no problems, no leaks. Everything is going fine, engine runs smooth, accelerates well.
We are pleased with the engine.
We also installed our Serr Miller Head on the engine, that also has a FSI Solid State Ignition, Brierley M-13 Cam, Stromberg 97 Carburetor (with #45. Jets), JE Pistons, and the Header for the Miller Head. I enclosed a picture of an original Model A Piston along with the piston we used for reference.
We have a started the Break-In process and have a little over 300 miles with no problems, no leaks. Everything is going fine, engine runs smooth, accelerates well.
We are pleased with the engine.
Attachments
Dave in MN
Well-known member
Vicky,
I am building virtually the same engine. Only the pistons and carbs will be different. If you would share please, what is your cold oil pressure at idle and warm operating oil pressure. I am interested in knowing what the Stipe pump is producing. Did you add any additional oil pressure relief other than the stock relief in the pump? Thanks for what you can share.
Good Day!
Cyclone Kevin
New member
Thank to all especially Terry Burtz for all of the “Fantastic info-tech” on this exciting and long awaited in terms of a “MAJOR IMPROVEMENT” over the 93 yr old A engine design and the 89 yr old B-C design. I would email Terry each time I received an engine update and followed along with its progress to process. This guy “NEEDS to be Thanked” along with the guys who continue to make the alternative engine a physical reality. I only wish that I could get one ASAP as I’d like to try on of our “Original NOS CYCLONE A-B Heads”, not the ones that carry our name w/o our consent as they are not even based off of our original tool. If this engine calls for us to re-tool ours then perhaps we could/should.
Great to see such great tech Terry. Wishing you the best!!!!!
Great to see such great tech Terry. Wishing you the best!!!!!
denniskliesen
Well-known member
I’m not far behind on getting mine running. I have about a half of a day buttoning up the engine itself and then getting it in the frame and all hooked up. Only thing I need to fabricate is the oil filter housing bracket. It’s breakin time after that and then off to Oshkosh. Can’t wait to get there and meet up with Terry, John, and Leonard. A really great bunch of guys.
Vicky
Senior Member
The engine runs with a little over 30 PSI Oil Pressure when cold and after it warms up, and when warm, it drops a little below 30 PSI when idling.
The engine has an External Oil Filter, and with the Header and Fuel Pump on the right side, I placed the filter on the left side of the engine under the Starter. I used an Earl 2077 filter mount because it has a 1/8 NPT output for the head and pressure gauge in addition to the output for the engine.
The Stipe pump has the Green Spring, 35-40 PSI, and there is no change is oil pressure when accelerating or making sharp turns, very consistent. The Oil fitter is a Wix 51085 (a short PH 8), the lines to and from the filter are AN 6, and the head & pressure sensor line is 1/8 inch. The Engine oil is Valvoline VR-1 20w-50.
I am not sure of the HP, but a friend wants to put the car on his chassis Dyno after we break it in. I will post those results, I would expect about 100 HP at the wheels.
The engine has an External Oil Filter, and with the Header and Fuel Pump on the right side, I placed the filter on the left side of the engine under the Starter. I used an Earl 2077 filter mount because it has a 1/8 NPT output for the head and pressure gauge in addition to the output for the engine.
The Stipe pump has the Green Spring, 35-40 PSI, and there is no change is oil pressure when accelerating or making sharp turns, very consistent. The Oil fitter is a Wix 51085 (a short PH 8), the lines to and from the filter are AN 6, and the head & pressure sensor line is 1/8 inch. The Engine oil is Valvoline VR-1 20w-50.
I am not sure of the HP, but a friend wants to put the car on his chassis Dyno after we break it in. I will post those results, I would expect about 100 HP at the wheels.
Synchro909
Well-known member
PM sent.
Vicky
Senior Member
Pistons were purchased from Dennis Piranio, Piranio’s Antique Automotive, http://modelaparts.net/index.html