Swap over to Alternator

Gene F said:
The old wire that take the output from the gen is taped off. From the new alternator, I have a heavy wire that runs up to positive side of the battery.

Basically the wires were removed from the gen, and are currently taped off (3 of em). And a new wire was added up to the battery. The pigtail on the alt has a red wire that foes to the discharge post, and that white wire in the pigtail is for the indicator light. It is not an exciter wire, as some think. Battery before start 12.43V, after start 14.3V - those evtra volts are coming from somewhere not outter space.
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Gene F said:
No. I bought it from concourse parts. The instruction are a disaster. Sorry I bought the thing now. The guy that answers the telephone there is not my favorite type of parts person - if ya know what I mean.

Seems like a indicator light hooked up to the thing runs like this. Feed from a switched source (usually key switch since it is in the area of the light) Indicator light socket, then the bulb, the wire runs out to ground which in the case must be the white wire. Seems like the light works when the alt stops. Like throws a belt.

I am thinking I may rig up a toggle switch, a fuse, and a test light, and play around with the thing. The solenoid is like 1 foot away from the alternator. My test light can become my indicator bulb assembly. My guess is that there is not much to this. Maybe hooking up to my existing wiring is the problem. Just let the thing do what it's supposed to do from like 1974ish, and let the 1957 stuff do what it is supposed to do.

First thing I am gonna do though is start the car, and put my test light on that white wire. I wanna find out if that wife is 12V feed. I kinda need to know that. If it is 0 volts I'm gonna turn it off and then put my OHM meter on it and see if it is a ground switch. That will tell me if it is the switch for the 12 for the indicator light.

I'm starting to get discouraged now...
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Can you give the PN and SOURCE of the ALT you bought?

If the ALT copies the DELCO ONE WIRE design is one thing but if it is a CHI-CON, it may be completely different.

No mention of a CIRCUIT BREAKER or FUSE in the charging wire?
 
Concourse part number B5A-10346-K
The mfg box (within the shipping box) 7133203 Brand of reman is Pure Energy
 
Gene F said:
Concourse part number B5A-10346-K

The mfg box (within the shipping box) 7133203 Brand of reman is Pure Energy
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- WELL, DUH! -​

For some strange reason I thought ( :rolleyes: ) that you wanted to go with a PowerGEN CONVERSION -

https://www.summitracing.com/search...lternators/year/1957/make/ford/model/fairlane

What you received is a DELCO 10SI 63A (which in reality is a THREE-WIRE ALT) but can be wired as a ONE-WIRE MODEL.

I cannot find a source of info for Concourse part number B5A-10346-K. This came in a conversion kit with mounting brackets, some type of power wire and an inconcise (translated POORLY from CHINESE) INSTRUCTION SHEET?
 

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KULTULZ, those are essentially the instructions they sent.

I just got done working through a process to check things out. I'll reply with more later.
 
I am retaining water this week and am just a little irritable, so bare with me ...

Why anyone would want a GM ONE-WIRE ALT on a FORD application is beyond me.

"It only has one-wire and eliminates that ugly harness" (external VR).

HUMBUG!!! I say ...

That harness, if fashioned-wrapped-sheathed correctly, with an external VR, will look (to me anyway) better than a kit RED wire routed to the STARTER SOLENOID.

The last thing (other than a SBC) I want to see under the hood of a clean FORD resto is a damn DELCO ALT. But then again, it goes well with the INTERSTATE BATT and GATES radiator cap.

If you want an ALT upgrade, FORD 1G for an external VR and 2G/3G for an internal VR.
 
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This has been a great thread to follow. I am currently using a stock gen. on my Y block with electric wipers and halogen headlights. I will install AC in the future but am planning to use a power gen for the appearance of a gen. But my question is this: right now as is can I drive the car using the lights and wipers and not drain the battery? I will probably use every ones friend-Rain-X anyways.

Thanks,

Mike
 
I have electric wipers. Halogens will draw a bit more, but I'd think not a TON. I am thinking you will be ok. Get yourself enough amps at any speed. Low amps will allow your A/C clutch to slip, and it chews itself up over time.
 
How are you coming along Gene?

Don't think I was yelling at you but at these so-called 'KIT MAKERS' that sell junk (disc brake conversions also)
 
1930artdeco said:
This has been a great thread to follow. I am currently using a stock gen. on my Y block with electric wipers and halogen headlights. I will install AC in the future but am planning to use a power gen for the appearance of a gen. But my question is this: right now as is can I drive the car using the lights and wipers and not drain the battery? I will probably use every ones friend-Rain-X anyways.

Thanks,

Mike
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Mike I don't think your generator will handle the load. The halogen lights will require relays to power up. Even a Ron Fransis headlight switch will not handle the current draw. A fellow hot rodder complained his switch handle got so hot it was hard to turn off without using a glove. He had sealed beam halogens wired directly through the switch. It burned up the switch which literally feel apart in my hand while taking it out of the dash. He elected to switch to regular headlights and a new switch vice installing relays and all was well.
 
I believe your 30 amp generator will do just fine for your driving with headlights and wipers, but if you are concerned you can do a quick and simple test by checking your battery voltage while those loads are on while engine running (you will need to boost the RPM to around 1500 or so to simulate driving). If the voltage drops significantly during the test, you have your answer.

Good Luck,
Dave
 
Kultulz - here is the bottom line. Car running the white wire has 12 V on it (test light). Then turn the car off and turn the key to "ON" and the test light is on. Turn the car off and put the key in your pocket the test light is off. Alternator charges the battery at 14V when the car is running.

Result; the thing charges fine. The indicator function has an issue.
 
Gene F said:
Kultulz - here is the bottom line. Car running the white wire has 12 V on it (test light). Then turn the car off and turn the key to "ON" and the test light is on. Turn the car off and put the key in your pocket the test light is off. Alternator charges the battery at 14V when the car is running.

Result; the thing charges fine. The indicator function has an issue.
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Does the ALT INDICATOR LAMP on instrument panel ILLUMINATE while the car engine is running?

When the engine is stopped, does the LAMP illuminate?

If the key is tuned to ON without starting, is the LAMP on?
 
Have not bothered to hook it up to the dash, since it is on with key on, and with engine running. Pointless since they are the same "closed" contact.
 
Gene F said:
Have not bothered to hook it up to the dash, since it is on with key on, and with engine running. Pointless since they are the same "closed" contact.
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Not the test light. I meant the actual RED INDICATOR LAMP on the instrument panel.

If the INDICATOR LAMP is illuminated with the key on only (no start), that circuit is working correctly.
 
KULTULZ said:
Not the test light. I meant the actual RED INDICATOR LAMP on the instrument panel.

If the INDICATOR LAMP is illuminated with the key on only (no start), that circuit is working correctly.
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Let me try this again as it is confusing ...

The WHITE WIRE connects to the CHARGE INDICATOR LAMP AFTER THE ACTUAL LAMP ITSELF.

IGN SW (RUN POSITION) - LAMP - WHITE WIRE from ALT. The lamp provides the resistance in that circuit. Without it (or the bulb burns out) the circuit can overload.

If you plan to run either a VOLTMETER or AMMETER, things change.

I wish I could see their INSTR SHEET as to how their interpretation goes.

A TEST LAMP will not indicate VOLTS or AMPS. It just indicates there is power in the circuit being tested, A MULTI-METER is need to actually measure current flow/value.
 

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I have a Powermaster ,90 amp with a indicator light terminal.

Brown wire from alt. to ground, black wire with white stripe goes to yellow wire with black with black in the wire harness .

The large yellow wire from the alt. goes to the battery terminal post on the voltage regulator where it is joined with the large yellow wire that goes into the harness and travels up along the fender and across the firewall to the starter solenoid.

This alt has an internal voltage regulator. the voltage reg. shown is not used, other than a place to join the two heavy yellow wires.

When the key is turned on the indicator light (gen) will go on, and when the car is started the light will go off.
 

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