Swap over to Alternator

Gene F

Well-known member
That kit that swaps a generator over to a alternator setup - is that pretty simple? 57 Y-block car. I hear it effectively becomes a one wire alternator setup, which is very popular on hotrods these days. Use the same wire? I mean how do ya route, and hide the wire so it looks neat and tyddy? Wire goes where to the solenoid?

I have a Skyliner, so now that my gen is needing service I am thinking the extra amps might be a good idea. If I'm gonna do it now is plainly the time.
 
On my '60 ford Fairlane, the P.O. changed to an alternator. Power from the alternator goes to one side of the starter solenoid. Starter cable is attached to the opposite side. + battery cable attaches to the same point on the solenoid as the alternator. The alternator charges thru it's cable to the solenoid terminal, thru the battery cable,(both on the same terminal) to the battery. He used the original wiring for the "start and Ign" terminals to the solenoid. I removed all unused wires. left the stock voltage reg, without the guts, and used it for a terminal block
 
Is the SKYLINER a survivor, restoration or driver?

How far do you want to go from OEM ASSEMBLY?
 
If you're going to go with the alternator I recommend the 2G Ford. It is basically a one wire. Output and an exciter lead fed from "run 12V" through a light bulb (idiot light). The one that comes off an 87 Aerostar 3.0 puts out 75 - 80 amps. It comes with a serpentine pulley that is an easy swap for the V belt pulley. It is the same size as the 1G that came on Fords since ever.
 
If you're going to go with the alternator I recommend the 2G Ford. It is basically a one wire. Output and an exciter lead fed from "run 12V" through a light bulb (idiot light). The one that comes off an 87 Aerostar 3.0 puts out 75 - 80 amps. It comes with a serpentine pulley that is an easy swap for the V belt pulley. It is the same size as the 1G that came on Fords since ever.
3G yes, the Aerostar one.
 
I was asking about a kit. I really don't wanna start making stuff up, and sourcing pieces from various vendors.

Car was restored some years back, and I have made some modifications, but nothing that can not be undone. I drive it some <400 miles per yr. It is a nice car.
 
Sounds like a nicely restored car that is only driven ovcasionally. Why not rebuild the original generator? It was designed to provide adequate power for the car when new. Did you add accessories that require more amps? A properly restored generator will provide many years of trouble free service without compromising the appearance and originality of the car.

I restore a lot of original Ford generators. I'll be at Hershey next week if you'd like to discuss it or bring your generator.



Steve
 

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Sounds like a nicely restored car that is only driven ovcasionally. Why not rebuild the original generator? It was designed to provide adequate power for the car when new. Did you add accessories that require more amps? A properly restored generator will provide many years of trouble free service without compromising the appearance and originality of the car.

I restore a lot of original Ford generators. I'll be at Hershey next week if you'd like to discuss it or bring your generator.

Steve

!!! - THANK YOU - !!!​

I think very few understand the short (pun intended) comings of a one-wire ALT.

Is it possible to jack-up the AMP OUTPUT on a rebuild GEN (as you can an ALT) easily and what style regulator(s) do you use?
 
!!! - THANK YOU - !!!​

I think very few understand the short (pun intended) comings of a one-wire ALT.

Is it possible to jack-up the AMP OUTPUT on a rebuild GEN (as you can an ALT) easily and what style regulator(s) do you use?

Not really, other than spinning it faster. There were special high output generators made for police and other special applications. They are usually longer than a standard generator. Electrical engineers who were far smarter than I designed generators to meet the electrical need of these cars. It was a careful balance of output, physical size and generated heat. At higher outputs generators can run hot, which is detrimental to longevity. Thus hopping up a stock generator is not a good idea. The stock generator is fine for a mostly stock car. But if power hungry modern accessories are added, then a higher output alternator may be a better option.

Steve
 
Generators were offered in different amperage(s) to meet the needs of the particular vehicle build.

That is where I was going. Same with an ALT, they can be upgraded.

What I am wanting to know if it is feasible to retain a GEN on a dedicated restoration.

No need for an ALT (IMO) (especially a one-wire) unless the car is modified/built as a resto-mod and has a high amp draw (electric fan - ignition - FI - sound).
 
Well my understanding is that the gens are all 30 amps max. The alt kits I see are like 65amps. 1) I figure with the electric top the extra juice (available) can not hurt. 2) there is a very faint headlight flicker with the gen. I can not see it from inside, but when I walk up to the car while it is sitting there running I can see that very faint flicker. Open the hood, and I can see the brushes with ever so small sparks in the tail of the gen if it is dark outside.

I have no desire to chase my tail. The gen has a bad bearing for sure. So just seems that now is the time.

I put a tri-power on the thing, and a fan shroud. Future projects are torque-thrust, or Cragar wheels. A dual bowl power brake unit too. It is pretty much a done car except a few little items here and there (maintenance type of things). I'm getting older, and seem like I drive it a little more each year these days.
 

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GEN was available between 30-60A during this period.

It seems you misunderstood my post. What you do with your car is entirely your business. But you need to research one-wire alt before you commit (IMO), but then again, none of my business.

The poster (whom my post was intended for) is a re-builder and I merely asked if it is possible to bump a 30A to a 60A GEN easily.
 
GEN was available between 30-60A during this period.

It seems you misunderstood my post. What you do with your car is entirely your business. But you need to research one-wire alt before you commit (IMO), but then again, none of my business.

The poster (whom my post was intended for) is a re-builder and I merely asked if it is possible to bump a 30A to a 60A GEN easily.

Hence the post to start with. I know what vendor says, but heck I like to ask on here to get a real world take on things. Let's face it, answers on here may not always be what we want to hear, but they sure seem to be honest, right?

I see that Summit sells a "genernator" unit too.

I don't know I just think changing it over seems logical. I ended up changing my streetrod over to a one-wire setup, and have not regretted it. Of course the guy that put that car together made some choices that I have not agreed with.
 
Changing to an alternator is something I’ve done several times. I’m not familiar with the Ford units, I’ve always used GM because they are readily available. But one comment. Some of the 1 wire installations show a bit too low a voltage at the battery. Running a 3 wire configuration with the idiot light solves that. My tbird was one of them. Sometimes it doesn’t happen, all depends on the wiring and distance to the battery. But it’s worth checking. If you’re running some heavier electrical loads, check it with them all on.
 
Gene, Concours Parts online catalog shows two alternator conversion kits for the big Fords, both use the original generator brackets. I don't know what the difference is, but one is $249.95, the other $259.95.

If you spend $300+, most items ship free. If you don't live in Nevada, there's no sales tax. They often have 10% off sales; look for one around Halloween or Thanksgiving. They just had one for Labor Day.
 
If you start adding things like electric wipers, aftermarket sound system, ac, the 30-amp generator might not cut it.

I don't object to modifications/add-ons, if they make your driving experience more enjoyable. Isn't that what it's all about?
 
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