Stuck motor update

Good luck with the eng. I had this problem and used diesel fuel and a socket on the front nut. I think 1 3/8 I used heat from a propane torch on the piston tops ,along with the tapping,beating on a 4x4 block of wood. Finally I was able to turn the crank 1/4'' then more fuel and a vacume cleaner to clean up the mess. The eng finally turned over,and I got the pistons out.
 
Guys. - thanks for all the help. I would be frustrated and probably in a panic without it.

When we got the A I was thinking about selling it but my wife liked it and I decided it would make a good addition to the family. My thought was that it might even be called her car and she would drive it on weekends My wife just told me that if the A was too much trouble I should consider selling it. :eek:

Well the A has become a challenge for me. When I was in HS I wanted to go to an engineering college but the councilor told me that I was no smart enough and he would not give me a recommendation. It took me awhile, but I went to college earned a mechanical design and ceramic engineering degree. Some people now consider me to be an expert on processing lead free solder, direct bond copper, glass to metal seals, and inline brazing. So a challenge gets my attention :cool:

No hex nut so I must have stock lifters. The valve stems have a mushroom on the end that will not fit thru the valve guides so I can't completely remove them. How do you adjust the clearance with stock lifters?

I am concerned that part of the stuck motor problem is in the valve train so dealing with the lifters is important. Any ideas?
I don't have room in the garage for another motor on a stand so I'd like to leave the motor in the car if possible. Can the cam be removed with the motor in the car?

I put about 1/2 inch of MMO/acetone on the top of each piston
 
Awesome news... with respect to the handbook --good but not perfect, nothing is of course. I think a nice group project would be for folks to develop a "free" online updated, rewritten version --and have if could be found true mechanical drawing.
 
If you can't budge the flywheel teeth back and forth a little bit, then I think the pistons are stuck and should be freed first.
My Renault Dauphine that I bought at auction has stuck valve, but the crank will turn about half way around.
 
Umm, they don't make Model As anymore. So if you have one it is very worthwhile to get it going and drive it and have some fun. You don't have to restore it to 100000 points. Get it operational and enjoy a piece of history that none of your neighbors have.
 
At this point, I would consider pulling the whole engine, and disassembling the entire engine to free up, clean, inspect, and lubricate everything if it can be put back together without machine work. You have about everything off that needs a gasket now, so you might as well make it easy to work on and pull it.

Good luck, don't sell it, get it running and take your wife for a drive. She will come back around after a drive.
 
50 yrs outside with no head? all bets are off. The person that did that should be excommunicated for destroying a perfectly good engine
 
Tappet adjustment with stock lifters is done by refacing the valve stem
Valve guides are removed with a tool which goes under the valve head and push down
you will also need the tool for the cam shaft nut
Lifter are tuff to free try and soak from both side if possible you need to get them all up to remove cam
 
I'd pull the pan and check the undersides of the bores for rust too. I'm sure whatever's in the pan ought to come out anyway.

Many a stuck engine has been freed and gone on to years of service so don't give up!
 
"I am not very happy with the model A mechanics handbook because it seems to have left a number of things hanging "[/QUOTE]


What book are you using? I put my trust in Les Andrews and it has never let me down. There are some other books, but they just take up room on my shelf. If you don't have the Andrews book, that is the one you need.
 
Thanks Smurkey - Your right - pulling the pan has to be added to my 2-Do list because it was funky behind the valve cover and I'm pretty far into the disassembly process anyway.
I have to remember to drain the oil before removing it. :D

When I was 10 my dad asked me to remove the pan from the 1919 model T we were restoring.
I was sitting on the floor with my legs under the motor and didn't realize that oil remained in the dips so I got soaked.:o
My mom refused to put my pants in the washing machine thus I needed new ones! :rolleyes:

It is interesting when I remember the things I did on the cars with my dad.:)
Maybe that's why I still play with them ;)
 
ctvpa said:
"I am not very happy with the model A mechanics handbook because it seems to have left a number of things hanging "
Click to expand...


What book are you using? I put my trust in Les Andrews and it has never let me down. There are some other books, but they just take up room on my shelf. If you don't have the Andrews book, that is the one you need.[/QUOTE]

I have the Model t mechanics handbook I'll look at the Andrews book when I have some time
 
The Model A mechanics Handgook is by Andrews. I have learned that I have to look in numerous locations for info.

Update - I removed the oil pan and was shocked :eek: at what I saw until I figured out that the red color was due to the trans fluid and MMO that I have been using on the cylinders. :o (At lease that is what I am hopeing for!)

The next step is to clean things up - try to free up the lifters and then see if I can get it to rotate. I am thinking that I'll use Kerosene to clean it up - unless someone has a better way. :)
:p Please don't sugest a pressure washer - I reserve that for the deck and cats. :p

Since I am this far into the motor I will check the rod and main clearances before attempting to reassemble things. ;)

I am seriously considering 31 Woody's sugestion about pulling the motor because I am tired of crawling under the car, and getting dirt in my face. I have everything I need except for a motor stand.
 

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I have everything I need except for a motor stand
Click to expand...
.

Head on down to Harbor Freight in Salem, NH and pick up the stand on sale at $45.99.

SALEM, NH #00442
356 SOUTH BROADWAY, STE 3
SALEM,NH 03079
603-870-8157
OPEN
Store hours:
M-F 8:00AM-9:00PM
SAT 8:00AM-9:00PM
SUN 9:00AM-6:00PM


image_22244.png


http://www.harborfreight.com/750-lb-engine-stand-69887.html

This one used to be 49.95 every day. I bought mine on sale for $42.99.

Now a little bit more thanks to QE Infinity.

Joe K
 
The was a lady named Betsey who wanted to start her old PU truck with a stuck engine too. She, under Barn tutelage, filled each cylinder with Marvels Mystery Oil (MMO) put it in 3rd gear and tried rocking it, and rocking it, and rocking it, until after about a month it finally let go and would turn over. It takes patience. Another good release agent is acetone and ATF (Auto. trans, fluid) mixed 50-50.
Terry
 
Your engine has had it.

Every oil groove in the mains, and rods will have the rust build up, and might have rust that ate it's pattern in the crank. If you turn it over, that rust will be like sand paper in the bearing.

Turn the engine over, and all the babbitt will be gone.

If you see an engine sweat on the out side, know that is the exact way it looks on the inside.

Many of good motors have been ruined after they set for a time and they wern't

checked first before started.
 
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Yup. This one looking like a candidate for a complete tear down, clean up (and clean out) and put together correcting the obvious flaws.

Or maybe a complete re-build - a "barn find" block if you will.

Still, it might be worth a shot. I can see issues with the cam more than the crank - but cams can be had.

I had one of these that came out of an AA truck. Heavily used in its life, it would turn over - but that was about it.

On tear-down, I found that the prior owner at sometime had lost the large ratchet nut at the front end of the crank - and so drilled the one piece pulley hub (and crank) and put in a bolt to hold the pulley in place. Somehow he avoided the front seal (so the bolt head and nut wouldn't tear out the seal)

One wonders how much metal shavings went into the engine from that "modification."

Right now I consider that engine and the crank a "potential user" - with the bolt removed and the crank ratchet bolt restored to it's position, it should work fine. Still, only a "parade engine" though.

But farmer fixes are part of the surprises too.

Joe K
 
At this point I haven't looked at the brakes, transmission, rear end, etc. The body is solid, the interior is vintage, the paint is rustic, and the tires hold air. I guess it is decision time - Rebuild this motor myself - have someone else do it - get another motor - turn the car into a lawn ornament - or sell the car and cry for the rest of my short life.

Given that my wife "loves the car" and I don't want to cry I am limited to fixing the motor somehow.

What is the current thinking on making a reliable fun driver that doesn't have to be a super fast or powerful hot rod?

In the T world it would consist of SS valves, aluminum pistons, Kevlar bands, and a decent rebuild but I don't know about the A. In fact I have a spare T motor waiting to go into my 1919 that has all the above until I rebuild the original one.

OK guys - What would you do? Just remember I am cheep! :)
 
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